Statistics for trad climbs:

You may click on a location (in the left-most column), a climb type, or a person's name to show only the climbs in that location, of that type, or with that person.

Route
Click for details.		 Date Rating Comments
                                                                                                                        
Right Peyote Crack
The Outback
 Tue, May 6
2003		 5.8 ** My first crack climb. I struggled a bit at first, and fell a few times on the initial vertical (or over-vertical?) section. It was thin and flaring, probably not a great one for me… more
Middle Peyote Crack
The Outback
 Tue, May 6
2003		 5.9 ** Ironically, though I fell on the previous one, I didn't on this one.
Left Peyote Crack (Bailed at start)
The Outback
 Tue, May 6
2003		 5.10 ** The start of this is virtually impossible to protect. Aaron took two (fortunately short) groundfalls trying. Ballnutz might work, but even the black alien wouldn't go. I think… more
Season Opener
The Outback
 Tue, May 6
2003		 5.8 ** A bit awkward because the crack traversed right, but not hard.
Double Cross
Hidden Valley Campground
 Tue, May 6
2003		 5.7+ **** Awesome crack... the first time I got to feel a really good hand jam.
Sail Away
Real Hidden Valley
 Tue, May 6
2003		 5.8- **** Nice route... thin crack, but off-vertical. Got a bloody finger from a banged-up cuticle. Guess I should work on my thin crack technique.
Wild Wind
Real Hidden Valley
 Tue, May 6
2003		 5.9 **
Loose Lady
Real Hidden Valley
 Tue, May 6
2003		 5.9+ **** Classic Joshua Tree friction climb. It was nearing dusk and getting pretty cold, and a gale-force wind kicked up. Feeling pretty sketched out, I stupidly climbed past the first… more
Fingertrip
West Face
 Tue, Jun 3
2003		 5.7 *** My first multi-pitch. Nice climb, but maybe too easy!
Room to Shroom
Barker Dam
 Sun, Oct 5
2003		 5.9 ****
Room to Shroom
Barker Dam
 Sun, Oct 5
2003		 5.9 **** My first trad lead! I had just followed it and thought it was pretty easy, and we had hiked way out to the middle of nowhere, so I decided to try leading it. I knew the moves and… more
Dung Fu
Lost Horse
 Sun, Oct 5
2003		 5.7 * Fun, and pretty easy. Unfortunately we didn't realize we needed a second rope for the rappel.
White LightningTrip Report
Lost Horse
 Sun, Oct 5
2003		 5.7 *** The Chimichanga Epic (I bet you didn't think it was possible to have an epic at Joshua Tree. Okay, so it wasn't a real epic, just a delay of dinner, when we were starving for… more
The Labyrinth
Lost Horse
 Mon, Jan 19
2004		 5.7 Deserves a star or two
Wet Pigeon
Lost Horse
 Mon, Jan 19
2004		 5.8 *
Taurus
Lost Horse
 Mon, Jan 19
2004		 5.6
Men With Cow's Heads
Lost Horse
 Mon, Jan 19
2004		 5.5
Solar Technology
Lost Horse
 Mon, Jan 19
2004		 5.6
Annointed Seagull
Lost Horse
 Mon, Jan 19
2004		 5.8 Deserves a star, maybe two. A little stiff for a 5.8?
Olive Oil
Juniper Canyon
 Sat, Feb 14
2004		 5.7 ***** Really fun, easy route. A few exposed sections. Only my second multi-pitch, and my first time leading on a multi-pitch. We did this in four pitches with some simul-climbing, and I… more
Dark Shadows
Pine Creek Canyon
 Sat, Feb 14
2004		 5.8 ***** Excellent route. Fairly long and very exposed for only three pitches. The last pitch, on very varnished sandstone, is particularly interesting. Several times my shoes squeaked on… more
Crimson ChrysalisTrip Report
Juniper Canyon
 Sun, Feb 15
2004		 IV 5.8+ ***** Incredibly beautiful route, incredible exposure on the last several pitches, and just a perfect day altogether. Definitely the high point (literally and figuratively) of my… more
Fiendish Fists
Lost Horse
 Wed, Mar 24
2004		 5.9 * My first lead fall, onto a yellow alien. Followed very shortly thereafter by my second, onto a number 1 camalot. A good route overall, with thin hand crack up to off-hands.
Friendly Hands
Lost Horse
 Wed, Mar 24
2004		 5.10b ***
Third World
Lost Horse
 Wed, Mar 24
2004		 5.9 * Fun, and not too hard. Traverse right well below the big roof, then move up the dihedral, mostly liebacking if I remember correctly.
The Harder They Fall
Lost Horse
 Wed, Mar 24
2004		 5.10a ** Very fun, and not too hard at all. Even easier than Third World if you carefully look for the right moves, especially when moving around the roof. A “thinking man's crux”, just… more
The Dike
Lost Horse
 Wed, Mar 24
2004		 5.10c R **
Short Stop
Lost Horse
 Wed, Mar 24
2004		 5.10a Deserves a star. Fun, but really really short. Like 20 feet. Just a really thin finger crack.
Overhang Bypass/North Overhang
Hidden Valley Campground
 Thu, Mar 25
2004		 5.9 *** I led the first pitch of Overhang Bypass (5.7) (we meant to do North Overhang, but started at the wrong place) then Aaron led the second pitch of North Overhang (5.9). The second… more
Tabby Litter
Hidden Valley Campground
 Thu, Mar 25
2004		 5.8 Pretty fun actually. We just did this to get up to Geronimo.
Geronimo (Got off route...)
Hidden Valley Campground
 Thu, Mar 25
2004		 5.7 *** We didn't really do this one right... the whole point is the roof crack. Someday we'll go back and do it the right way. Leave it to Joshua Tree to have a wide roof crack that's… more
Straight Flush
Hidden Valley Campground
 Thu, Mar 25
2004		 5.8 Deserves a star. Really nice crack for the first 30 or 40 feet.
Dream of Wild Turkeys
Black Velvet Canyon
 Thu, Apr 1
2004		 5.10a ***** Great route. We swapped leads the whole way, but even with the odd number of pitches, we each got to lead the same amount, because I accidentally combined pitches 5 and 6. That was… more
Sour Mash
Black Velvet Canyon
 Fri, Apr 2
2004		 5.10a ***** Excellent route. Again we swapped leads the whole way. I enjoyed this one a little more than Wild Turkeys, partly because I got some really fun leads: a small 5.8 roof on pitch 2,… more
Epinephrine
Black Velvet Canyon
 Sat, Apr 24
2004		 IV/V 5.9 ***** An all-time classic. A little bit of everything on this one: chimneying, crack, liebacking, and beautiful face climbing. We did the 4th-class alternative start to get past another… more
Fingertrip
West Face
 Sun, May 9
2004		 5.7 *** Climbed with Erwin Lau, using much of Aaron's rack, plus my own gear. This was a lot more fun the second time around, probably because I was leading the whole thing.
Traitor Horn
West Face
 Sun, Jun 6
2004		 5.8 ** Climbed with Corinne Lee, using much of Aaron's rack, plus my own gear. A very fun route, though the really good part is a very short section. Two major notes: the real route is… more
Whodunit
Northwest Recess
 Fri, Jun 18
2004		 5.9 *** Aaron and I had been wanting to climb this for a year, and we finally got to. It was a stellar route, and well worth the wait. We did it in six pitches with no simul-climbing,… more
Traitor Horn
West Face
 Fri, Jun 18
2004		 5.8 ** We ran up this after doing Whodunit, since we had plenty of daylight left. This time, we simul-climbed the easy first part (with me leading), up to the beginning of the crux pitch,… more
White Maiden's WalkawayTrip Report
Maiden Buttress
 Sun, Jul 18
2004		 5.4 ** A bit of an epic, with Corinne leading and me following. A second party came up behind us, with Ken leading and Mike following.
The Open Book
South Face
 Wed, Jul 28
2004		 5.9 *** Another ultra-classic that we've been wanting to do for a long time. We both decided afterwards that we wanted to do ths one again, because we each felt our technique wasn't “right… more
The Long Climb (Wong Climb start)
Northwest Recess
 Wed, Jul 28
2004		 5.8 ** A nice long classic that has been on our list for a while, and was one of the few good routes in the shade (mostly in the shade). The route turned out to not be so long, since we… more
Sahara Terror
Northwest Recess
 Sat, Aug 21
2004		 5.7 ** This was Dan's first multipitch, and I think it was pretty much his first real trad route. The route was suggested by Tony Chang, James Kim, and Roger Suen, and Dan liked the sound… more
Whodunit
Northwest Recess
 Wed, Aug 25
2004		 5.9 *** My second ascent of Whodunit, definitely my favorite climb at Tahquitz so far. This time I climbed with Tung Nguyen, his first time trad climbing, so of course I led the whole… more
Regular RouteTrip Report
Fairview Dome
 Sat, Sep 11
2004		 IV 5.9 ***** The first of three NAClassics that we would clmb in four days. And a twelve-pitch grade IV that we climbed in less than four hours. Awesome, and totally fun.
NutcrackerTrip Report
Eagle Creek Area
 Sun, Sep 12
2004		 5.8 ***** We skipped the real first two pitches of this, to get past a huge mass of crowds. The rest of the climb was fun.
East ButtressTrip Report
Middle Cathedral
 Mon, Sep 13
2004		 IV 5.10c ***** Incredible route, and one of the hardest and most serious I had done to date. I also got to do my hardest lead yet in the middle of this route.
Snake DikeTrip Report
Half Dome
 Tue, Sep 14
2004		 III 5.7 R ***** Climbed with Aaron Reite and John Leo. An excellent and truly fun climb, and a really long day altogether.
Central Pillar of Frenzy (First 3 pitches only)
Middle Cathedral
 Sat, Sep 18
2004		 5.9 ***** We just climbed the first three pitches (5.9 and below) of this long classic. (The whole climb is a grade V, and goes at 5.10d.) They were quite nice, despite a bit of wide stuff… more
The Braille BookTrip Report
Higher Cathedral
 Sun, Sep 19
2004		 5.8 **** A bit of an epic... the trip report, entitled “Climbing in a Winter Wonderland”, is a must read.
Jamcrack Route
Lower Yosemite Falls Area
 Mon, Sep 20
2004		 5.9 *** Very nice crack. Maybe a little soft.
Dolphin
Split Rocks
 Sat, Oct 16
2004		 5.7 ** Fun climb, and a good warm-up for the new J-Tree season. Beautiful hand crack down low, which opened up into an offwidth, but fortunately a low-angled one, toward the top.
Bird of Fire
Split Rocks
 Sat, Oct 16
2004		 5.10a **** My first 5.10 crack lead! It was a very good one, and not too hard, really. It looked like it would be harder at the top, where it overhung a little, but actually that part was… more
Grounder
Split Rocks
 Sat, Oct 16
2004		 5.9 Fun, but short. Really good crack for the most part. Deserves a star or two.
Crack #5
Split Rocks
 Sat, Oct 16
2004		 5.9+ *** Also fun but short... looked almost identical to Grounder, but it was a little harder near the top (mainly because it got wider.) I'm not sure why this one gets three stars when… more
Crack #6
Split Rocks
 Sat, Oct 16
2004		 5.10a *** HEINOUS! This one got wide at the top, and there was a small overhang right where it started to get wide. I came reeeeally close to falling off this one; I actually started to fall… more
Crack A
Split Rocks
 Sat, Oct 16
2004		 5.7+ Very short, easy, and again very wide at the top, but by that point you don't need to use the crack at all.
Crack B
Split Rocks
 Sat, Oct 16
2004		 5.9 Very short, and easy. Like two or three moves that might be 5.9. Then the crack opened up wide, but it was off-vertical enough that you didn't need it.
Exorcist
Sheep Pass
 Sat, Oct 16
2004		 5.10a *** Awesome thin crack, followed by giant jugs on the face. The crack reminded me very much of some of the thin cracks at Yosemite.
It
Sheep Pass
 Sat, Oct 16
2004		 5.9 Fun climb, in two distinct sections. The lower one was a nice hand crack, a bit burly for the first few moves, then a bit wide higher up. This took you to a huge ledge, from which… more
Tiptoe
Quail Springs
 Sat, Oct 16
2004		 5.7+ ** The “midget staircase”, as Julia called it, which Aaron has told me about a few times. This was fun, and actually a bit harder than it looked.
Profundity
Quail Springs
 Sat, Oct 16
2004		 5.10a This was only my second J-Tree friction climb (the first was Loose Lady, the first time I came here) and yet here I was leading it. Even though it was really short and should have… more
Conservative Policies
Real Hidden Valley
 Sat, Oct 30
2004		 5.8
Ain't Nothin But a J-Tree Thing
Real Hidden Valley
 Sat, Oct 30
2004		 5.6 Sarah followed this one, then I followed after her.
Count On Your Fingers
Real Hidden Valley
 Sat, Oct 30
2004		 5.9 Mostly real easy...
No Calculators Allowed
Real Hidden Valley
 Sat, Oct 30
2004		 5.10a ** This was cake until the very top, where there was a short overhang. The crux was pulling through that with thin hand jams... nice thin hand jams.
The Face of Tammy Faye
Real Hidden Valley
 Sat, Oct 30
2004		 5.8 This was also pretty easy. Sarah followed it, and didn't have much trouble.
Butterfingers Make Me Horny
Real Hidden Valley
 Sat, Oct 30
2004		 5.8/9 This was way easy for a 5.8/9. Sarah followed this one too, and only had trouble with one move.
Chocolate Is Better Than Sex
Real Hidden Valley
 Sat, Oct 30
2004		 5.9+ A bit weird and tricky at the start, but cool once I figured out the right technique. Totally cake after that.
Almost Vertical
Real Hidden Valley
 Sat, Oct 30
2004		 5.7 Complete piece of cake. Really, everything on Thin Wall was pretty soft.
Winds of Whoopee
Real Hidden Valley
 Sat, Oct 30
2004		 5.11a *** This was Aaron's crazy idea... we were going to do Loose Lady, nearby, so that I could lead it. But there was a line at the base of it, so Aaron decided to do this climb instead.… more
200 Motels
Indian Cove
 Thu, Nov 11
2004		 5.8 *** Awesome, beautiful finger crack. Unfortunately it only lasted for about 20 feet. After that, the climb was basically over.
Taken For Granite
Indian Cove
 Thu, Nov 11
2004		 5.8 *** Very fun, albeit quite easy, route. Not such a stellar crack as the previous one, but still fun.
Cactus Cooler
Indian Cove
 Thu, Nov 11
2004		 5.10b ** This was an excellent climb, which looked a lot harder than it actually was. Unfortunately, it's not very clean, so you have to be careful. Aaron led, and managed to place gear on… more
Right V Crack
Indian Cove
 Thu, Nov 11
2004		 5.10a *** Fun route, and fairly difficult (for me anyway). I led it, and fell once. Dammit. I was so close to getting through the crux. (A lot of people have called this a 10c rather than… more
Bombay
Indian Cove
 Thu, Nov 11
2004		 5.8 * Fun. Easy. Good gear. (I used an offset nut.)
Calcutta
Indian Cove
 Thu, Nov 11
2004		 5.7+ * A one-move wonder. That one move is awkward, and warrants the 7+. The rest is barely fifth class.
Varnishing Point
Pine Creek Canyon
 Fri, Nov 19
2004		 5.8 **** This was quite a fun one, albeit totally easy. I led the first (trivial) pitch, then Aaron led the second. We realized later that Aaron left one of my biners at the top, so we had… more
Topless Twins
Pine Creek Canyon
 Fri, Nov 19
2004		 5.9 **** This was a fantastic climb. Really awesome.
Varnishing Point
Pine Creek Canyon
 Fri, Nov 19
2004		 5.8 **** Climbed this one again, to rescue on of my biners that was left at the top. This time, I led the whole thing in one pitch.
The Black Orpheus
Oak Creek Canyon
 Sat, Nov 20
2004		 III 5.9+ **** Really nice, fairly long climb. The lower pitches are just okay, but the excellent upper pitches are well worth it. I got to lead the crux, which is definitely not 5.10a as the… more
Double Decker
Lost Horse
 Sat, Dec 4
2004		 5.6 *
Mr. Misty Kiss
Lost Horse
 Sat, Dec 4
2004		 5.7 ***
Biological Clock
Lost Horse
 Sat, Dec 4
2004		 5.9+ * Definitely fun and deserves a star, but SO not a 5.9, and especially not 9+. This is a one-move wonder, and that one move is really more like 5.7 friction with a bolt right in… more
Frosty Cone
Lost Horse
 Sat, Dec 4
2004		 5.7 *** Super fun. Nothing but jugs the whole way. Probably my favorite on the wall.
Scrumdillyishus
Lost Horse
 Sat, Dec 4
2004		 5.7 * Also super fun. Again, nothing but jugs the whole way. Aaron's favorite on the wall. Maybe mine too, especially with the fantastic knee-bar that I found.
A Hot Fudge
Lost Horse
 Sat, Dec 4
2004		 5.9 R * It's indeterminate whether we did this one right, but I think we did the 5.9 (outside the huge groove, on the face) rather than the 5.10 (which I think goes up just inside the… more
Walk on the Wild Side
Sheep Pass
 Sat, Dec 4
2004		 5.7+ **** This was really fun, and gave me a little more (much needed) practice on J-Tree friction slabs. Actually, few moves were true friction moves, as there were lots of edges (hence the… more
Cat In The Hat
Pine Creek Canyon
 Sun, Jan 16
2005		 5.6 ***** Trip report coming soon...
Lean To (left)
Geology Tour Road
 Sat, Jan 22
2005		 5.8 Got a little wide at the top... yuck.
Lean To (right)
Geology Tour Road
 Sat, Jan 22
2005		 5.10 The right crack was better than the left crack. Very thin, and a little funky at the top, but a good climb. Probably 5.10a, though the book doesn't specify.
Georgia O'Keefe
Geology Tour Road
 Sat, Jan 22
2005		 5.10b This was a super fun friction route. I finally got some good practice doing friction climbs, and was able to lead this without falling.
Perpetual Motion
Geology Tour Road
 Sat, Jan 22
2005		 5.10d *** This was the goal for the day. Aaron led it of course, and he managed to onsight it, which was quite an impressive feat. I flailed quite a bit at the crux, unable to secure good… more
Orphan
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sat, Jan 22
2005		 5.9 *** This was a pretty fun route, but a serious gruntfest at the top, where it got nasty wide.
The Flake
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sat, Jan 22
2005		 5.8 ** This is an awesome route because it includes a little of everything. And of course, true to Joshua Tree style, even though it's a 5.8, it's not trivial. It starts with a chimney… more
Cranny
Quail Springs
 Sat, Jan 22
2005		 5.8 **
The Mikado
Indian Cove
 Sat, Jan 29
2005		 5.6 **
La Reina
Indian Cove
 Sat, Jan 29
2005		 5.9 ** This was a pretty cool crack. The crux is at the very bottom. I stopped early on at a tricky stance to place pro, and after a minute my right foot slipped. Minor groundfall... oh… more
Crown Jewels
Indian Cove
 Sat, Jan 29
2005		 5.7 **
Duchess
Indian Cove
 Sat, Jan 29
2005		 5.6 ** This was fun and easy, and probably the longest climb of the day since I went basically all the way to the top of the rock. During this route we also tested using a Cinch for… more
The Castrum
Indian Cove
 Sat, Jan 29
2005		 5.10a * This was a fun lead for me. The crux was fairly low, and involved very balancy moves with only a tiny finger-lock for one hand. Of course, the only good place for pro was in this… more
Cool Wind (aka The Rabbi or Red Beckey)
Indian Cove
 Sat, Jan 29
2005		 5.10a * This was fun and tricky. The crux was right at the top. The rest was definitely easier. The pro is pretty good all the way through.
Gait of Power
Indian Cove
 Sat, Jan 29
2005		 5.10b * This climb is essentially a friction boulder problem with a long easy topout. The crux is a very tricky friction move right off the ground. I took three groundfalls in a row before… more
We Dive at Dawn
Indian Cove
 Sat, Jan 29
2005		 5.8 ** This was fun, and the crux involved a little bit of awkwardness, if I remember correctly.
Who's First
Indian Cove
 Sat, Jan 29
2005		 5.6 * This was a really fun little lead.
Yei-Bei-Chei Crack
The Outback
 Sat, Feb 26
2005		 5.9 * A good, fairly short, not too hard crack, right next to Watanobe Wall, our real goal for the morning.
Watanobe Wall
The Outback
 Sat, Feb 26
2005		 5.10a ** Good crack, with a well-protected crux near the beginning, then much easier after that.
Double Cross
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sat, Feb 26
2005		 5.7+ **** Still an awesome crack... although the awesome part is really just the first fifteen feet or so. And I really don't get why people claim this thing is so hard. It's definitely not… more
Geronimo
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sat, Feb 26
2005		 5.7 *** Aaron led this, then we just pulled the rope through so I could lead it. As a result, I didn't actually have to place my own gear, but so what. This was super fun. Probably the… more
Heart and Sole
Echo Rock
 Sat, Feb 26
2005		 5.10a **** This was a fantastic climb. Aaron led it, but I wouldn't mind going back to lead it myself some time. It was quite a heady lead. I don't think I've ever seen Aaron take so much… more
Touch and Go
Echo Rock Area
 Sat, Feb 26
2005		 5.9 **** Great crack, and not entirely easy. There was a section at the beginning that was awkward and pretty tricky.
Stichter Quits
Echo Rock
 Sat, Feb 26
2005		 5.7 *** Great little friction route, and for a 5.7, it was tricky! Definitely required faith in one's rubber. NOTE: If you rappel this with a 60m rope, it will only get you to about… more
Looney Toons
The Outback
 Sat, Feb 26
2005		 5.9 *** Really fun climb... soft for a 5.9, I thought. There was a mildly difficult section near the beginning, and an offwidth at the top, but otherwise it was easy. The offwidth gave me… more
Over The Hill
Quail Springs
 Sun, Mar 6
2005		 5.9 We were in this area to do nearby Tossed Green and Right Baskerville Crack, so I was going to warm up on this one. It was kinda crappy, and we were freezing our asses off, so we… more
Papa Woolsey
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sun, Mar 6
2005		 5.10b ** This is a classic friction climb that I've been wanting to do for a while, so I'm glad I finally got a chance to. I fell at the first crux twice before figuring out a good… more
Buissonier
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sun, Mar 6
2005		 5.7 ** Corinne led this, to get some practice leading cracks. She had some trouble with it, and had to hang on gear a few times. Her placements were mostly pretty good, but still not all… more
Chalk Up Another One
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sun, Mar 6
2005		 5.10a *** This was an excellent climb, mostly bolted, but with a little bit of crack at the end. A gray alien was sufficient pro. I almost fell at one point, but caught myself with a wee bit… more
Pumping Ego
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sun, Mar 6
2005		 5.10b * This was also fun, every bit as good as the previous one. Corinne led it well, and showed me up yet again, as I fell at one point while following it.
Solar Slab Gully
Oak Creek Canyon
 Tue, Mar 29
2005		 5.3 *** We were going to do Johnny Vegas to get up to the base of Solar Slab, but of course there were crowds, so we did this instead. We simul-climbed the whole thing all at once. It's… more
Solar Slab
Oak Creek Canyon
 Tue, Mar 29
2005		 5.6 ***** This was really fun, and quite easy. We mostly simul-climbed, allowing us to link lots of pitches, so we did all but the last pitch in two pushes. Then Aaron led the last pitch,… more
Johnny Vegas
Oak Creek Canyon
 Wed, Mar 30
2005		 5.6 R ***** We were going to do Eagle Dance on this day, but it just didn't happen. After a LONG hike in and an equally long and much more HOT hike out, we decided to cruise up Johnny Vegas.… more
Palmreader
Indian Cove
 Sun, May 1
2005		 5.8 ** Great little hand crack, but way too short.
Scare Way
Indian Cove
 Sun, May 1
2005		 5.10b ** Really a pretty nice climb. The lower part was pretty flaring and slanted significantly to the right, which made it technical (lots of smearing on the face with the right foot)… more
Flare Play
Indian Cove
 Sun, May 1
2005		 5.10b * This was hard. To me it seemed quite stiff for 10b, although in retrospect, I suppose if I had seen the correct sequence at the crux, it might have been easier. Suffice it to say… more
Gem
Jumbo Rocks
 Sun, May 8
2005		 5.8 ** Awesome hand crack. Truly awesome. This should have three or four stars. Aaron led this, for which I am exceedingly jealous.
Colorado Crack
Jumbo Rocks
 Sun, May 8
2005		 5.9 *** This is the true classic of the area. Will (a.k.a. the Brit) led this, and made fairly short work of it, using almost nothing but nuts. Good man.
Spiderman
Jumbo Rocks
 Sun, May 8
2005		 5.10a ** As usual, after two spectacular cracks, I get stuck with the offwidth. Actually, the first 80% of this was pretty nice, especially the thin part. There were a few parts where the… more
Winter Wine
Jumbo Rocks
 Sun, May 8
2005		 5.10c ** This was a real nice climb. It looked like there would be no pro (or marginal pro) at or before the crux, but Aaron was able to place two bomber nuts in the thin crack, and without… more
Prepackaged
Lost Horse
 Sun, May 8
2005		 5.10a *** This was a fine, fine climb. The Brit started leading it, but backed down at the crux, which was near the start. I took over, and finished it up. The crux involves a very thin… more
Poodles Are People Too
Lost Horse
 Sun, May 8
2005		 5.10b *** This is one that Aaron and I have been wanting to do for a long time. It was well worth the wait. The first time we had looked at it, it looked runout and scary, but in fact there… more
Overseer
Lost Horse
 Sun, May 8
2005		 5.9 *** Also a very nice climb, but probably not quite as high quality as the previous two. The Brit led this one. He had some trouble at the crux headwall, near the top, but he cranked… more
Flower of High Rank
Northeast Buttress
 Sun, May 29
2005		 5.9 *** We finally did this ultra classic, and it was well worth the wait. Only one pitch, but a good one the whole way.
Johnny Quest
Northeast Buttress
 Sun, May 29
2005		 5.10b ** This was an excellent and pretty easy finger crack not far from Flower of High Rank. It was unfortunately short, and I think I'd give it a 10a (or even 5.9) instead of 10b. True,… more
Flakes of Wrath
Northeast Buttress
 Sun, May 29
2005		 5.10c R ** I don't know what the hell I was thinking leading this, but in retrospect I'm really glad I did. This was definitely the hardest trad lead I've done, and although I didn't redpoint… more
Johnny Quest
Northeast Buttress
 Sun, May 29
2005		 5.10b ** When I pulled the rope after rapping off of Flakes of Wrath, it got stuck, so we decided to re-climb this sweet piece of rock to clear the snag. This time I led, since I knew it… more
Peer Pressure
North Face
 Sun, May 29
2005		 5.10a * This was a fun little slab. Short, and not too tough. Aaron led it first; he fell once, but otherwise didn't have much trouble. Then we pulled the rope and I led, finishing it… more
Serpentine
Weeping Wall
 Sun, May 29
2005		 5.9 *** This was an excellent multipitch slab climb. Definitely a “traditional” bolted climb, as it was pretty run out, and you could tell it was bolted on lead. (The bolts were not placed… more
Super Pooper
West Face Bulge
 Mon, May 30
2005		 5.10a *** This was an excellent climb. Aaron and I have been wanting to do this one for a long time, so it's too bad I couldn't do it with him, but I'm glad I finally got to do it. I'll go… more
Mechanic's Route
South Face
 Mon, May 30
2005		 5.8 R *** This was a really fun route. The Brit led the first pitch, which started out the same as the first pitch of Open Book, then traversed right into a different crack system and went… more
Mechanic's Route
South Face
 Sat, Jun 4
2005		 5.8 R *** This time I led the first pitch, and Aaron led the second. He went all the way to the chains without running out of rope, so it is quite possible to do this in two pitches with no… more
Left Ski Track/The Chauvinist
South Face
 Sat, Jun 4
2005		 5.8 *** Aaron led the first pitch of Left Ski Track, with its “unbelievably good jugs”, then due to slow crowds, we finished with the second pitch of The Chauvinist. The first pitch was… more
Coffin Nail
West Face
 Sat, Jun 4
2005		 5.8 * This was an incredibly fun route, I thought. I would give it more than one star, personally. I also don't think it was 5.8, but then again, I think all the 5.8 stuff at Tahquitz is… more
The Long Climb (Wong Climb start)
Northwest Recess
 Sat, Jul 2
2005		 5.8 ** This was Pouya's first trad climb, and I felt like repeating this old classic that I'd only done once. I thoroughly enjoyed it the second time around, and it was nice to get to… more
Angel's Fright
West Face
 Sun, Jul 17
2005		 5.6 ** This was a pretty fun climb, and I think Laura enjoyed it. It doesn't have any stellar or classic crack or slab climbing, but it is pretty nice overall, and the route-finding was… more
Left Ski Track
South Face
 Sun, Jul 17
2005		 5.6 *** This route lived up to its reputation as a spectacular climb. I had done the first pitch before with Aaron, but I hadn't led it. So I got to enjoy the “unbelievably good jugs” on… more
The Step
West Face Bulge
 Tue, Aug 16
2005		 5.10a ** The ominous route on which two people died about two years ago. This really wasn't too tough, although because there has been some rockfall at the crux in the last few years, it… more
The Chauvinist/Left Ski Track
South Face
 Tue, Aug 16
2005		 5.8 *** Having already done the first pitch of Left Ski Track and the second pitch of The Chauvinist, we decided to do the opposite, so that we have now climbed all of both routes (I had… more
Super Pooper
West Face Bulge
 Sun, Aug 28
2005		 5.10a *** Aaron led the first and last pitches of this, since I had already led them. They felt easier this time, maybe because I had done them before, or maybe because I was just following.… more
Right Ski Track
South Face
 Sun, Aug 28
2005		 5.9 ** This was every bit as spectacular as its neighbor, Left Ski Track. Rather than setting up a natural anchor for a hanging belay in the middle of the nice long crack, I linked the… more
The Chauvinist
South Face
 Sun, Oct 2
2005		 5.8 ** This was fun once again, and it was Shanjean's first real trad climbing experience, and her first time climbing a fairly difficult crack, I think. She handled it quite well. I… more
Coffin Nail/Traitor HornTrip Report
West Face
 Sun, Oct 2
2005		 5.8 ** This may very well be the best 5.8 at Tahquitz, and it's not in the guidebook. Figuring out this link-up is trivial, but I never thought of it until my friend Nathaniel mentioned… more
Fiddler on the Roof (Had to bail...)
Black Velvet Canyon
 Sat, Oct 8
2005		 5.10+ PG **** We had to bail from this after Hobbs couldn't do the traverse on the third pitch. He got a little off route, and apparently it seemed harder than the 5.10- that it was supposed to… more
Yellow Brick Road (First 2 pitches only)
Black Velvet Canyon
 Sat, Oct 8
2005		 5.8+ ***** After bailing off Fiddler on the Roof, we decided to round out the day by just climbing a few pitches of Yellow Brick Road. After two pitches, we both agreed that we were exhausted… more
Frogland
Black Velvet Canyon
 Sun, Oct 9
2005		 5.8- ***** This was fun, but there were two parties above us, so the climb was a traffic jam the whole way up. The climb itself was of excellent quality, though, and for once we would have… more
No Self Respect
Wonderland of Rocks
 Sat, Oct 15
2005		 5.10c *** Flaring, sharp, unpleasant, and horribly wide in a few places. I have no idea why this has three stars in the guidebook, nor why Todd Gordon calls this a “Yosemite hand slammer”,… more
No Self Confidence
Wonderland of Rocks
 Sat, Oct 15
2005		 5.10b ** This climb was much more pleasant than the one next to it. This one was actually a really nice hand crack most of the way, but steep, so it wasn't totally easy. There was a small… more
The Old Man Down the Road/New Hampshire, Naturally
Wonderland of Rocks
 Sat, Oct 15
2005		 5.10b These are two parallel cracks that are about two feet apart at the base, but get a little bit farther apart as they go up. The left one, “New Hampshire, Naturally”, is a 10b, and… more
Such a Poodle
Lost Horse
 Sat, Oct 22
2005		 5.8+ This was easy, except for a one-move slab crux. I fell, here, but actually managed to catch myself, then I realized I was supposed to go further left to get around the tricky spot.
Spoodle
Lost Horse
 Sat, Oct 22
2005		 5.9 * This was a fun one.
Poodles Are People Too
Lost Horse
 Sat, Oct 22
2005		 5.10b *** So good! I'm glad I got to lead it this time. I wish they made a tricam smaller than the pink one... it would have come in so handy right before the second crux.
Head Over Heels
Lost Horse
 Sat, Oct 22
2005		 5.10a *** This is one of the coolest routes ever. We did the super fun variation to the roof, namely, we both hung underneath it and heel-hooked until we could pull around the lip. Probably… more
A Farewell to Poodles
Lost Horse
 Sat, Oct 22
2005		 5.9 Nice climb. First part is slightly tricky, but then it's just easy splitter hand crack for the rest.
The Old Man and the Poodle
Lost Horse
 Sat, Oct 22
2005		 5.8 Pretty nice. The guidebook shows a traverse in from the left, but I actually was able to do a direct start that was no harder. Furthermore, there's pro directly below the route in… more
Space Walk
Lost Horse
 Sat, Oct 22
2005		 5.8 * The start of this sucked badly (really really badly, like breaking off a giant chunk of rock from 20 feet up badly) but once I got into the actual crack, it was quite cool. A very… more
For Whom the Poodle Tolls
Lost Horse
 Sat, Oct 22
2005		 5.9 * This was the final Hemingway-named poodle route, and it was just as good as the other routes in this area. Just like the other 5.9 next to it, it had a slightly tricky start,… more
Double Cross
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sat, Nov 5
2005		 5.7+ **** I went to J-Tree today with a bunch of friends from the UCLA Rock Wall, since Aaron was out of town for the weekend. Most of them just went to boulder or hike, or just relax, but… more
Scrumdillyishus
Lost Horse
 Sat, Nov 19
2005		 5.7 * Just as good as I remember it being. John had no trouble following this, although he did have trouble removing an alien until he remembered to pull the trigger instead of pushing… more
Frosty Cone
Lost Horse
 Sat, Nov 19
2005		 5.7 *** Fun fun fun. If I remember correctly, Steven didn't have trouble with this one, but he was shocked to find blood on the rock. Oh the horror!
Mr. Misty Kiss
Lost Horse
 Sat, Nov 19
2005		 5.7 *** As excellent as before, and it gave Steven (and Danielle and I think also John) a good bit of trouble at one or two places.
Butterfly Crack (Didn't get it this time...)
Quail Springs
 Sat, Nov 19
2005		 5.11c *** I had been fantasizing about this thing since we'd first looked at it a month ago, and I really wanted to try leading it. We worked on a few moves at the start (the crux), and I… more
Practice Rehearsal
Lost Horse
 Sun, Nov 20
2005		 5.7 Pretty nice, and easy. Gave our friends a wee little bit of crack experience.
The Playwright
Lost Horse
 Sun, Nov 20
2005		 5.6 I ran up this, and Aaron quickly followed, just because it was a crack that looked like it had some potential to be good. Oh well. I guess to get our crack fix for the day, we'd… more
Butterfly Crack
Quail Springs
 Sun, Nov 20
2005		 5.11c *** I F***ING REDPOINTED THIS! Pardon my french, but damn, that felt awesome. I've had my eye on this climb ever since I first looked at it a month ago, and worked out some of the… more
Poppa Spider
Indian Cove
 Sun, Dec 4
2005		 5.9 * Kinda fun, but quite short, and the rock quality here was not the greatest.
Momma Spider
Indian Cove
 Sun, Dec 4
2005		 5.9 Interesting and a bit tricky for about one or two moves.
Direct South Face
Indian Cove
 Sun, Dec 4
2005		 5.9 *** Excellent, though the best part is definitely the roof. Other than that and a single balancy move at the very beginning of the last “pitch”, most of the climb is fairly easy, but… more
Third Time's a Charm
Indian Cove
 Sun, Dec 4
2005		 5.10b *** This was awesome, and I was quite glad I got to lead it. It looked like the crux was going to be a wee bit runout, but it actually protected quite well. The crux is the short… more
Lucky Charms
Indian Cove
 Sun, Dec 4
2005		 5.7 * 5.7 my ass. More like two moves of 5.5 followed by lots of 4th class and 5.easy. Okay, actually we did this slightly wrong. This climb and Third Time's a Charm cross each other, so… more
The Swift
Lost Horse
 Tue, Dec 13
2005		 5.7 ** This was pretty fun and easy. The “improbable move right” was not too improbable, and was heavily chalked.
Bird on a Wire
Lost Horse
 Tue, Dec 13
2005		 5.10a *** This was excellent. I led the first pitch, and unfortunately for Aaron I ran it almost to the top, leaving him with only a 30-foot easy pitch. I also protected the climb almost… more
Dappled Mare/Roan Way
Lost Horse
 Tue, Dec 13
2005		 5.8 ** I led the first pitch of Dappled Mare, then Aaron did Roan Way instead of the usual finish, since he had done Dappled Mare before. Both pitches were nice. The second was a full 200… more
Right Lizard Crack
Lost Horse
 Tue, Dec 13
2005		 5.9 * This was fun, and a bit tricky, but quite short.
Left Lizard Crack
Lost Horse
 Tue, Dec 13
2005		 5.10d R * This was super fun, with a very short crux. And I highly disagree with the R. The crux protected well with nuts, and probably would have taken cams as well. The upper part was… more
Chicken Lizard
Lost Horse
 Tue, Dec 13
2005		 5.10b * This seemed like the hardest climb of the day, because it was pretty sustained. And this one deserved the R, not Left Lizard Crack. It protected decently well, but the hardest… more
Rock-A-Lot
Lost Horse
 Sun, Jan 29
2006		 5.7 * A good easy start to the day.
Young Lust
Lost Horse
 Sun, Jan 29
2006		 5.9 *** Really nice climb, but a bit soft.
Euthyphro
Lost Horse
 Sun, Jan 29
2006		 5.9 * Really nice climb, but a bit soft.
Spitwad
Lost Horse
 Sun, Jan 29
2006		 5.10a ** Excellent climb, but also a bit soft for 10a. More like 5.9.
Smithereens
Lost Horse
 Sun, Jan 29
2006		 5.9 *** Very nice climb.
Split Personality
Lost Horse
 Sun, Jan 29
2006		 5.9 *** Good one, and it felt harder than all the 9's and the 10a on the left side of the wall. The upper part is an excellent thin crack. At the top of this, while belaying Aaron up, a… more
Rock Candy
Lost Horse
 Sun, Jan 29
2006		 5.9 *** Fun, and definitely more solid for the grade than the stuff to the left. While Aaron was leading, the peregrine falcon I'd seen at the top of Split Personality flew by again, but… more
Double Dogleg
Lost Horse
 Sun, Jan 29
2006		 5.7 *** Fun and easy... but maybe harder than the 5.8 further to the right! At the top of this climb, the peregrine falcon I'd seen on the previous two routes flew by again, this time even… more
Beck's Bet
Lost Horse
 Sun, Jan 29
2006		 5.8 * Very easy. Aaron on-sight free soloed this without even meaning to. He just ran up it without feeling any need to place gear.
Uncle Fester
Lost Horse
 Sun, Jan 29
2006		 5.10d * I onsighted this! This was probably my hardest onsight yet, so I was quite proud. It's an outstanding, clean, super-thin crack, and the crux is very short: about two or three moves… more
North Overhang
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sun, Feb 12
2006		 5.9 *** We warmed up on this one. Aaron took the first easy pitch, and I took the second. Quite embarassingly, I fell at the crux of this. Especially weird considering that I've followed… more
Lower/Upper Right Ski Track
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sun, Feb 12
2006		 5.10b *** This was a pretty cool climb. The crux protects pretty well, but you have to really decide whether you can fight the pump long enough to place gear. Aaron found it easier to just… more
Left Ski Track
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sun, Feb 12
2006		 5.11a *** I flashed this! Too bad I was following, but still, I was pretty psyched about it. Aaron had to hang a few times, but this was at least partly because he was worried about the… more
Half Track
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sun, Feb 12
2006		 5.10a * This was a great little route, and pretty tricky. The start is nearly impossible to protect, and is probably the crux, with delicate friction moves and a few tiny crimps. The seam… more
Keep the Ball Rolling
The Outback
 Sat, Mar 4
2006		 5.9 Fun and pretty easy. Looked like it had some loose stuff, but it was mostly pretty solid.
Rollerball
The Outback
 Sat, Mar 4
2006		 5.10b **** Sweet climb. The roof was a bit pumpy, but the jams were just unbelievably good. Aaron onsighted this. I unfortunately fell at the lower technical crux, mostly due to carelessness.… more
Illusion Dweller
Real Hidden Valley
 Sat, Mar 4
2006		 5.10b ***** AKA The Kandy-Kolored Tangerine-Flake Streamline Baby. I finally got to climb this classic, and after all the hype from various friends of mine, I was really glad I onsighted it.… more
Clean and Jerk
Real Hidden Valley
 Sat, Mar 4
2006		 5.10c **** I freakin' flashed this! Once again, though, I was following, and in this case, that made a huge difference. With Left Ski Track, which we did the last time we were here, I felt… more
Geronimo
Juniper Canyon
 Thu, Mar 23
2006		 5.6 **** This was fun, but quite a traffic jam. When we reached the base, there were three other parties (one a party of three) ahead of us, and one more couple showed up just behind us.… more
Refried Brains
Black Velvet Canyon
 Fri, Mar 24
2006		 5.9 **** This was an excellent route. Aaron led pitches 1 and 3, and I led 2 and 4. Aaron absolutely loved pitch 3. Also, note that it really didn't require any wide gear or offwidth… more
Overhanging Hangover (Rock was wet)
Black Velvet Canyon
 Fri, Mar 24
2006		 5.10a **** After Refried Brains, we still had plenty of time left in the day, so we roped up to do this short one, a climb we'd been wanting to do ever since we rappelled over this giant roof… more
Wholesome Fullback
Black Velvet Canyon
 Sat, Mar 25
2006		 5.10a ***** Sweet sweet sweet! I led the first pitch of this, and even though it's only 5.10a, I might consider it one of my prouder onsights. This didn't feel like typical Red Rocks “soft”… more
FroglandTrip Report
Black Velvet Canyon
 Sat, Mar 25
2006		 5.8- ***** Another traffic jam... this time cold and windy, and we didn't get down until after dark.
Prince of Darkness
Black Velvet Canyon
 Mon, Mar 27
2006		 5.10c ***** We've been wanting to climb this ever since our first trip to Red Rocks together, over two years ago. Every time we were going to do it, something came up. Finally, we got to… more
Overhanging Hangover
Black Velvet Canyon
 Mon, Mar 27
2006		 5.10a **** This climb, though short, is another one that we have been wanting to do for quite a while. Basically, ever since we rapped off of Sour Mash two years ago and saw a few bolts… more
Ace of Spades
Quail Springs
 Sun, Apr 30
2006		 5.9 *** Nice hand crack. I started up the dihedral and delayed the decision of which of the two beautiful three-star 5.9 hand cracks to choose. When I reached the point where they… more
Popular Mechanics
Quail Springs
 Sun, Apr 30
2006		 5.9 *** Aaron led the right hand crack, up the main dihedral. Also really nice.
Digital Watch
Quail Springs
 Sun, Apr 30
2006		 5.10d ** I led this, and unfortunately hang-dogged it quite a bit before I figured out that the best approach was to layback it. It was tricky, but not too bad, and it protected quite well.
Jack of Hearts
Quail Springs
 Sun, Apr 30
2006		 5.9 * This started out as a really really nice hand crack. I think it loses a star or two at the end, but it's not really bad or anything. However, Aaron got the rope pinched in the… more
Tossed Green
Quail Springs
 Sun, Apr 30
2006		 5.10a *** This was an excellent thin crack, and one I'd wanted to do for a long time.
An Eye to the West
Quail Springs
 Sun, Apr 30
2006		 5.9 * This was the decent looking 5.9 hand crack to the left of Tossed Green. It was pretty nice, but probably nothing to write home about. After this climb, as we were walking around to… more
Right Baskerville Crack
Quail Springs
 Sun, Apr 30
2006		 5.10a *** An excellent, short, tricky climb. The crux was really one fairly pumpy move, essentially doing a pullup on a large crimp, and desperately reaching for a finger-lock. The move was… more
Commitment
Lower Yosemite Falls Area
 Sat, May 13
2006		 5.9 **** This was an excellent three-pitch route. The first pitch took a splitter 5.8 hand crack to a nice stance. The second pitch, which Shanjean led, went straight up the inside corner… more
SelaginellaTrip Report (Bailed, partner bonked)
Lower Yosemite Falls Area
 Sat, May 13
2006		 5.8 *** The first pitch of this climb was pretty nice (once we found the correct start), but by the time she reached the end of it, Shanjean seemed to be bonking pretty hard. We bailed.
Bushwhack Crack/The Hook
Gate Buttress
 Sat, Jun 3
2006		 5.8 *** This was a really nice climb. The first pitch took the splitter hand crack pictured here up to a belay at a tree. The second pitch traversed left on fairly easy but slightly… more
Schoolroom Direct/Movie Variation
Gate Buttress
 Sat, Jun 3
2006		 5.8 *** This was another excellent route. Schoolroom direct followed a beautiful 5.7 finger crack to join up with the original Schoolroom route (5.6). We then did two pitches of that… more
The Green Adjective
Perhaps Area
 Sat, Jun 3
2006		 5.10a **** Sweet sexy crack. This climb reminded me a lot of Poodles Are People Too at Joshua Tree, in that it required delicate moves and protected with lots of small nuts. (I placed… more
Gordon's Hangover
Perhaps Area
 Sat, Jun 3
2006		 5.9+ **** This was an outstanding route (the fourth in a day full of outstanding routes!) Apparently it's usually done as a single long pitch, but I decided to break it up into two. (I think… more
Pentapitch/Sasquatch
Pentapitch Area
 Thu, Jun 8
2006		 5.9 **** This was yet another excellent climb on excellent granite. Bobby led the first pitch of Pentapitch to bring us up to Sasquatch, which I then led. It followed a crack that started… more
Fingertrip
West Face
 Wed, Jun 21
2006		 5.7 *** This was a fun day. I led each pitch with my new double ropes, and Steven and John followed. I belayed them up using the autoblock feature of my new ATC Guide, so that they could… more
The Consolation
Northwest Recess
 Wed, Aug 2
2006		 5.9 * This route, right next to Whodunit, was pretty fun and high quality, but it certainly didn't seem as good to me as Whodunit.
Dave's Deviation (First pitch only)
West Face
 Wed, Aug 2
2006		 5.9 ** This was an awesome pitch! One of the best finger cracks I've ever climbed, hands down.
The Jam Crack/The Trough
West Face
 Wed, Aug 2
2006		 5.8 * This was fun, but in retrospect, I wish we had studied the guidebook more and tried one of the better (and harder) variations for the last pitch. We just went up the Trough without… more
Royal Arches
Royal Arches Area
 Sat, Oct 14
2006		 5.7 C0 ***** We've been wanting to do this one for a long time. It was a lot of fun, albeit very easy. Of course, we simul-climbed extensively, so we did the whole thing in just four pitches,… more
S.O.B.
Indian Cove
 Sat, Nov 25
2006		 5.6 This trip was to give my noob friends a little more trad and crack experience, and maybe even let them lead something super easy. Basically, most of the weekend was “Will's… more
Donna T's Route
Indian Cove
 Sat, Nov 25
2006		 5.5 A second easy crack for the crack workshop.
Court Jester
Indian Cove
 Sat, Nov 25
2006		 5.7 A third easy crack, and a much longer one. I ended up having to belay one person at a time from the top, and lower each one individually.
Tom's Solo
Indian Cove
 Sun, Nov 26
2006		 5.7 This was fun, albeit a bit dirty. It was also a tad pumpy for a 5.7, so my friends all struggled a bit. Erica was also a bit hungover.
Who's First
Indian Cove
 Sun, Nov 26
2006		 5.6 * Fun and easy, just as before.
Double Crack
Indian Cove
 Sun, Nov 26
2006		 5.3 * I led this, then set up a top-rope and a fixed line next to it. Erica, Danielle, and Steven each took a turn “mock leading” it, with someone belaying them on the top-rope, but… more
Sail Away
Real Hidden Valley
 Sat, Dec 9
2006		 5.8- **** I hadn't done these since my first trip to Joshua Tree over three years ago, so I decided they would be a fun way to end the day. Brian led this one.
Wild Wind
Real Hidden Valley
 Sat, Dec 9
2006		 5.9 ** We just barely got up this one before dark. John made it up with basically no real difficulty, which was good.
Stichter Quits
Echo Rock
 Sun, Dec 10
2006		 5.7 *** Brian led this one. Easy and fun.
Double Dip
Echo Rock
 Sun, Dec 10
2006		 5.6 ** Fun, and about as easy as a Joshua Tree slab gets (i.e. still not trivial).
Heart and Sole
Echo Rock
 Sun, Dec 10
2006		 5.10a **** I really wanted to lead this, as I remember how heady it was when Aaron led it. This really is an awesome route, both as a slab and as a crack.
Pope's Crack
Echo Rock
 Sun, Dec 10
2006		 5.9 *** Brian led this. Quite a nice crack.
Annointed Seagull
Lost Horse
 Sun, Dec 17
2006		 5.8 This was a cold December day! I thought we would find morning sun at Atlantis Wall, but we had no such luck. After one climb, we left the area to seek sun and warmth elsewhere.
The Flake
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sun, Dec 17
2006		 5.8 ** It was still freezing here, even though this faced what little sun was in the sky. I wanted to do this excellent route to give Jackie and the rest of the gang a taste of ALL that… more
Karpkwitz
Quail Springs
 Sun, Dec 17
2006		 5.6 Will really wanted to lead something with his shiney new set of nuts, so I figured this would be a good choice. I followed first and checked out his gear placements, which were… more
Damper
Hidden Valley Campground
 Fri, Feb 2
2007		 5.9 ** I never thought I would really enjoy a fist crack, but this thing was pretty sweet! Really locker fist jams! Getting down from the top in the dark was almost an epic though.
Pete's Handful
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sat, Feb 3
2007		 5.10a ** Nathaniel led this. It was fairly short, but pretty damn pumpy for a 10a.
Chicken Mechanics
Lost Horse
 Sat, Feb 3
2007		 5.9 * This was super fun, and I'm glad I got to lead it.
Poultry Pilots
Lost Horse
 Sat, Feb 3
2007		 5.7 Aaron led this.
Blackheart
Lost Horse
 Sat, Feb 3
2007		 5.10b * This was devious! At one point I just stood there for a minute or two trying to figure out what the hell to do next. It ended up being a pretty cool move, not too terribly… more
Hands Off
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sun, Feb 4
2007		 5.8 *** Very nice finger crack! Danielle had little difficulty with it. Indy also enjoyed hanging out at the base of the route!
Mike's Books
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sun, Feb 4
2007		 5.8 ** After having a very lazy climbing day, because we were all just really tired, we decided to finish up on this. Aaron led both pitches, and Danielle followed with little difficulty.
Palmreader
Indian Cove
 Sun, Mar 4
2007		 5.8 ** I of course wanted to do some crack, and we were camped a stone's throw from the world's shortest perfect splitter hand-crack. So as soon as we were all up and about, I got some… more
Plain But Good Hearted
Indian Cove
 Sun, Mar 4
2007		 5.6 * After Palmreader, we were looking for something easy to set up a top-rope on for a few of Erica's friends who had never climbed before. This was a fun and easy route, but I again… more
Main Face (a.k.a. Call of the West)
Indian Cove
 Sun, Mar 4
2007		 5.9 ** This was fun, and gave me a chance to do something at least a little challenging. Danielle followed, but got stuck at the final right-slanting crack (which was a bit tricky), and… more
Unnamed 5.9+
Blue Gramma Cliff
 Mon, Mar 26
2007		 5.9+ *** Awesome, fun, easy, and unfortunately short.
Dawn of an Age
Blue Gramma Cliff
 Mon, Mar 26
2007		 5.10 *** I fell twice on this. I think it was mostly because my head wasn't in it. I forgot to pu ton my helmet, and when I realized that, I was a little sketched.
Unnamed 5.10
Blue Gramma Cliff
 Mon, Mar 26
2007		 5.10 **** This was spectacular. It completely pumped me out, but I got up it with no falls.
Petrelli Motors
Blue Gramma Cliff
 Mon, Mar 26
2007		 5.10 *** Nathaniel led, and fell once at the crux. I followed with no difficulty. Afterwards, we watched a guy take a pretty big whipper, shirtless, helmetless, and upside-down! Scary.
Chocolate Corner
Donnelly Canyon
 Mon, Mar 26
2007		 5.9 *** This was really fun. A bit tricky since the hands were pretty thin, but not too hard.
Binou's Crack
Donnelly Canyon
 Mon, Mar 26
2007		 5.9 *** Though not as aesthetic as the previous climbs, this turned out to be an excellent crack. And though the really wide section at the top looked nasty, it turned out to be easy and… more
Twin Cracks
Supercrack Buttress
 Tue, Mar 27
2007		 5.9 ** This was pretty fun and easy. Nathaniel led.
Stolen Chimney (Bailed due to weather)
Ancient Art
 Tue, Mar 27
2007		 5.10 **** We got up to the ledge at the top of the chimney, stuck behind two other parties. We were a little worried at first about time, but then the wind kicked up and we saw the rain in… more
Bad Moki Roof
Potash Road
 Wed, Mar 28
2007		 5.9 *** Nathaniel led this up into the roof, but couldn't pull through it. I lowered him and took over leading. I fell the first time I tried pulling the roof, but caught myself on a hand… more
Flakes of Wrath
Potash Road
 Wed, Mar 28
2007		 5.9 **** This was super sweet and fun.
Unnamed 5.9
Supercrack Buttress
 Thu, Mar 29
2007		 5.9 ** It snowed most of the night and well into the morning. This really sucked, considering how far we had come to climb the splitter cracks of Indian Creek. Though I was somewhat… more
Amaretto Corner
Supercrack Buttress
 Thu, Mar 29
2007		 5.9 *** This was an excellent climb. It started out hands, but gradually got wider and wider. I walked a single #4 Camalot up about twenty feet as I went. At the top, I pulled a quick and… more
Generic Crack
Donnelly Canyon
 Fri, Mar 30
2007		 5.10 ***** Freaking spectacular. Oh my God. So sweet. So good. I led first, and Nathaniel followed, then I stayed at the top and took pictures as Brian led.
3AM Crack
Supercrack Buttress
 Fri, Mar 30
2007		 5.10 *** This was pretty sweet, but pumpy as hell, and got just a little wide in several spots. Brian led first, then Nathaniel followed, then Brian took pictures from the top as I led. As… more
Kor-Ingalls Route
Castleton Tower
 Sat, Mar 31
2007		 5.9+ **** Amazingly, despite my sprained knee from the day before, I was able to do the approach to this climb, then follow the whole route, with no issues. Apparently the sprain was pretty… more
North Chimney
Castleton Tower
 Sat, Mar 31
2007		 5.8 **** This was also an excellent route, but did require a little more use of my bad knee than the previous climb. Since we were short on time (Nathaniel was insistent that we get back to… more
Revelation
Weeping Wall
 Sun, May 27
2007		 5.10a ** This was fun, and really didn't feel hard to me. There were thin edges all the way, so I did much more edging than smearing. I think Joshua Tree slabs feel harder to me, because… more
Frustration
Buttress of Cracks
 Sun, May 27
2007		 5.10a * This was an excellent crack climb. The beginning part was in the easy 10 range and involved some thin finger locks. The rest went up a wide flaring groove, for which I stayed on… more
Surprise Direct
Weeping Wall
 Sun, Jun 3
2007		 5.9 ** This was a really fun route. It was mostly really really easy for the first two pitches (and good thing too, since there was virtually no pro on the first pitch) with a few… more
Hesitation
Sunshine Face
 Sun, Jun 3
2007		 5.10a ** This was super fun. Though a bit harder technically than the previous one, and much more varied, it wasn't the least bit runout. In fact, I kept joking that at the crux the bolts… more
Just Another Roadside Attraction
Lost Horse
 Sun, Oct 14
2007		 5.7+ * I've driven by this route more times than I can count, and I've thought about doing it many times. Aaron has mentioned it many times, I think just because it was rated 5.9 in the… more
Baby Roof
Wonderland of Rocks
 Sun, Oct 14
2007		 5.7 ** This was really fun, but way too short. From far away, the roof looks pretty big and difficult, but it's quite easy. In fact, the old book rates this 5.8, but the new one… more
Aftermath
Wonderland of Rocks
 Sun, Oct 14
2007		 5.10a *** Freaking awesome crack! The old book gave this three stars, the new one only two. I've kept it at three, because in my humble opinion this route deserves four or five. The first… more
Baby Face
Wonderland of Rocks
 Sun, Oct 14
2007		 5.7 This was fun, and as J-Tree slabs always are, a bit spicy, even for a 5.7. The bolts were old rusty button-heads, and there were only two of them.
Andromeda Strain
Quail Springs
 Sun, Oct 14
2007		 5.7 * This one was recommended to us by a couple we met early in the day at Roadside Rock. It was fun, and relatively long for a J-Tree route. I had lost a nut and quickdraw on Roadside… more
Silkworm
Lost Horse
 Sat, Oct 27
2007		 5.6 Started with a long scramble up a gulley. The actual 5.6 crack after that was pretty good, but short. I just stayed at the top and belayed the others up from there, since it just… more
Wilma Rubble
Lost Horse
 Sat, Oct 27
2007		 5.7 This was a really nice crack, and deserves at least a star or two. Easy, but really good. I led it and just set a top-rope for Jeremy, Sharon, and Janet to use. They all got up it… more
Smooth as Silk
Lost Horse
 Sat, Oct 27
2007		 5.8 * Excellent crack, and deserves more than just one star. Without a doubt the best easy finger crack that I've climbed in the monument. I led it, set a top-rope, then rapped off so I… more
Thigh Master
Lost Horse
 Sat, Oct 27
2007		 5.9 * This was a very cool route, with a very non-trivial crux. I think it took me a solid two minutes to figure out what to do with my feet at the crux move. Unfortunately, the crux was… more
Butterfly Crack
Quail Springs
 Sat, Oct 27
2007		 5.11c *** Since we had Jeremy's crash pad with us, and I wanted to climb something harder than 5.9 today, I decided to revisit this old friend. I bouldered through the crux once, to refresh… more
Freeway
Lost Horse
 Sun, Nov 4
2007		 5.7 R * This was an interesting route. Mostly very easy, and not as run-out as it looked. Some of the “exits” off the freeway looked a bit interesting, but I wasn't thoroughly inspired to… more
Cake Walk
Lost Horse
 Sun, Nov 4
2007		 5.8 *** This was quite nice, but if I were assigning the stars, I'd give Dinkey Doinks three and this one two. This one had a more discontinuous crack and I got very few really satisfying… more
Dinkey Doinks
Lost Horse
 Sun, Nov 4
2007		 5.8 ** This was excellent, and felt quite easy to me, but both Danielle and Marisa had significant difficulty with the initial part of the crack. For me the crack was marvelous, as were… more
Date Rape
Lost Horse
 Sun, Nov 11
2007		 5.9 * Despite the name, this is a really fun route. I'm thoroughly amazed at the plethora of high quality routes in this small area. Jackie had some difficulty with the start of this,… more
Tinker Toys
Lost Horse
 Sun, Nov 11
2007		 5.10b ** Jackie didn't think she was up to doing this one, so she followed Darrin up Cake Walk while Brian followed me up this, even though he had just led it.
Nobody Walks in L.A.
Lost Horse
 Sun, Nov 11
2007		 5.9 ** For a long pitch, this is a bit of a one-move wonder, and then it's all jugs (which made it quite fun!) From the ground, with several little roofs to climb through, it looked like… more
The Talking Fish
Lost Horse
 Sun, Nov 11
2007		 5.10c/d *** Incredible route. The first half is sustained, sport-like slab-ish climbing on edges protected by bolts that follow a seam, though you rarely actually use the seam. There's one… more
Dogleg
Hidden Valley Campground
 Mon, Nov 12
2007		 5.9 *** Since I wanted to warm up on something easier before we tackled the harder routes we had planned for the day, and I wanted Jackie to have a chance to climb something reasonably… more
Hobbit Roof
Hidden Valley Campground
 Mon, Nov 12
2007		 5.10d ** I wish I had tried this one earlier this year when Aaron and Nathaniel and I were considering doing it... it would have been a great confidence boost! This route is SOOO not .10d!… more
Coarse and Buggy
Roadside Rocks
 Mon, Nov 12
2007		 5.11a/b **** FAN-FREAKING-TASTIC! One of my goals for the weekend was to finally get on this route, and I'm really glad now that I did. This route is absolutely beautiful! Unfortunately I… more
Butterfly Crack
Quail Springs
 Mon, Nov 12
2007		 5.11c *** Brian wanted to look at this and boulder the start, and maybe actually climb it. I convinced him to rope up and climb the whole thing, and then followed him up it. It felt so much… more
Kate's Bush
Lost Horse
 Sun, Dec 16
2007		 5.8 * This was a nice, fairly straightforward warmup. I don't know why on earth the book gives this two pitches, except for the fact that there happens to be a big ledge halfway up. But… more
Chestwig
Lost Horse
 Sun, Dec 16
2007		 5.10a ** This started with a nice thin crack, and ended with a decent hand crack. The crux was definitely the lower part, but it didn't feel too bad to me.
Other Voices
Lost Horse
 Sun, Dec 16
2007		 5.7 * Matt wanted to try leading something fairly easy, so he decided to try this one. About halfway up, it becomes a real crack climb, and you have to hang on hand and foot jams while… more
I Love Brian Piccolo
Lost Horse
 Sun, Dec 16
2007		 5.8+ * Since the last climb brought us up to the upper right end of Mel's Diner, we decided to do this climb, since we had seen it from the ground and it looked kind of nice. Of course,… more
Left Mel Crack
Lost Horse
 Sun, Dec 16
2007		 5.10b/c *** This was quite sweet. The real crux is down low, not actually on the slab at the beginning where I expected it to be, but in getting around the first little overhang. After that,… more
Right Mel Crack
Lost Horse
 Sun, Dec 16
2007		 5.10c ** This was harder but less sustained than the previous one, hence the rating and the stars. The crux was basically one move, right near the beginning and well protected by two nuts,… more
Lizard Skin (a.k.a. Blue Belly)
Lost Horse
 Sun, Dec 16
2007		 5.9 * This was fun and mostly easy. It was basically an easy boulder problem at the beginning, then a short jug-fest after that. I placed two nuts.
Dappled Mare
Lost Horse
 Sat, Jan 12
2008		 5.8 *** A very good climb. The traverse down and left on the last pitch seems like a less aesthetic variation than continuing straight up the crack (going straight up is “Roan Way”, which… more
Mare's Tail
Lost Horse
 Sat, Jan 12
2008		 5.9 * This was fun, and only had a few slightly tricky spots. It did have a slightly scary section, where there was a large block sticking out of the wide crack, and you had almost no… more
B-1
Quail Springs
 Sat, Jan 12
2008		 5.1 * We did this just so Janet could practice placing gear and building anchors. She placed one nut and three cams. The first placement (a #13 Stopper) was completely and utterly… more
Hans Solo
Stirrup Tank
 Sat, Mar 8
2008		 5.9 This was a very fun, albeit short, climb.
Free As Can Be
Stirrup Tank
 Sat, Mar 8
2008		 5.7 This was a good little route, and Janet's gear placements were much better than the last time I saw her lead. They still weren't perfect, but very good.
Die Young
Stirrup Tank
 Sat, Mar 8
2008		 5.9 This was an interesting little route. It was really more of a slab climb than a crack, but with a shallow seam for gear.
Gargoyle
Stirrup Tank
 Sat, Mar 8
2008		 5.6 This is an outstanding amazing excellent hand crack, and deserves at least three stars. Janet led it with no trouble at all, and her gear placements were very good.
Peter Easter Pumpkin Eater (Start was hard!)
Stirrup Tank
 Sat, Mar 8
2008		 5.10c There's NO way the start of this thing is only .10c, unless I missed some serious beta or something. The line itself looked quite striking from a distance, when I saw it from the… more
Do Or Dike
Stirrup Tank
 Sat, Mar 8
2008		 5.9 This was an odd but fun climb, up a steep dike/crack kinda thing.
Jugular Vein
Stirrup Tank
 Sat, Mar 8
2008		 5.8 A very pretty line, and a lot of fun. I fully believe several of the climbs in this area, including this one, deserve a star or three, but I think the area was rarely visited at… more
New Toy
Stirrup Tank
 Sat, Mar 8
2008		 5.6 This was fun and easy, and Janet led it without any difficulties.
Jessica's Crack
Sheep Pass
 Sun, Mar 9
2008		 5.6 Janet started up this, but bailed when it got really wide near the top. From the beginning it seemed like her head wasn't really in it. Her gear placements were mostly very good… more
Lazy Day
Sheep Pass
 Sun, Mar 9
2008		 5.7 ** Janet again started up the first few feet of this, but her head just wasn't in it again, so I took over.
Jaws
Sheep Pass
 Sun, Mar 9
2008		 5.6 R *** I saw this in the book, and someone we were talking to recommended it, despite the R rating. It was definitely VERY runout, but a good introduction to easy chimneying. I placed a… more
Diamond Dogs
Sheep Pass
 Sun, Mar 9
2008		 5.10a *** This was excellent, and I'm really glad I finally got to climb something a little bit hard on this trip. Aaron and I had looked at this a few years ago, and I don't remember why we… more
Tunnel Vision
White Rock Springs
 Thu, Mar 20
2008		 5.7+ *** This was the last of the super-classic moderate routes at Red Rocks that I hadn't yet climbed, so it's been on my list for a while. Danielle and I got up at 5:15, and although we… more
Beulah's BookTrip Report
Oak Creek Canyon
 Fri, Mar 21
2008		 5.8 * Since we had backpacks, we decided to take the easier arête variation rather than the chimney/corner on the second pitch. This is not only the crux of the route, but from what I… more
Going Nuts/Solar Slab
Oak Creek Canyon
 Fri, Mar 21
2008		 5.6 *** The Going Nuts variation to the first two pitches was really easy and just pure fun for me. Larry suggested this, and as soon as he mentioned it I decided it was a good idea,… more
Panty Raid
Calico Hills
 Sun, Mar 23
2008		 5.10a *** This was an excellent climb! It even felt like it might have been .10a, just because it was so sustained. Really more like a very pumpy 5.9 face climb, but with excellent gear for… more
Cover My Buttress
Calico Hills
 Sun, Mar 23
2008		 5.6 This was Danielle's first trad lead. She did fine with it, but of course she took quite a bit of time placing gear. With the exception of one nut that was probably good enough, but… more
Skinny Dip
The Outback
 Sat, Dec 6
2008		 5.7 *** Crazy route! And kinda cool. You really have to be skinny to do this thing. Seriously, I think I'm about as skinny as a healthy man can be, and I could barely fit through the part… more
Tennis Shoe Crack
The Outback
 Sat, Dec 6
2008		 5.8 * This was a really nice crack, but quite short. The most fun part for me was watching Peter follow it without jamming. He started out liebacking, and promptly fell. Closer to the… more
Super Roof
The Outback
 Sat, Dec 6
2008		 5.9 *** This was interesting, and kinda fun, but it really wasn't a “roof crack” as I'd always heard. The crack you follow out the roof is huge, so to actually crack climb it would make it… more
Toe Jam
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sat, Dec 6
2008		 5.7 ** I'm glad I finally got to do this one. There wasn't even a line, although there was a party of four people doing the route just to the right of this, a .10b called Judas that… more
Judas
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sat, Dec 6
2008		 5.10b * This is the one right next to Toe Jam. It's basically a thin hands boulder problem, followed by a super easy slab, then one 5.9 slab move, then the second half of Toe Jam. The crux… more
Whiskey
Indian Cove
 Sun, Dec 14
2008		 5.6 This was short and easy, but reasonably good, basically a one-move wonder, with the crux right off the ground. Thuy followed it without difficulty.
Gin Fizz
Indian Cove
 Sun, Dec 14
2008		 5.7 R Another short one, also with the only tricky move coming right off the ground. Also not really all that runout.
Scotch
Indian Cove
 Sun, Dec 14
2008		 5.6 R Another short one, also with the only tricky move coming right off the ground. This one was runout, but the runout was in the really easy middle section.
Scotch With a Twist
Indian Cove
 Sun, Dec 14
2008		 5.8 R This was a little trickier, but still mostly a one-move crux right off the ground. This also wasn't really that runout.
AA
Indian Cove
 Sun, Dec 14
2008		 5.7 This was short but really nice. The thin crack down low was fun, and the hand crack up above was awesome. The first part of it was a little wide, so Thuy had to use fists for a lot… more
The Haberdashery
Indian Cove
 Sun, Dec 14
2008		 5.8 This was pretty nice. I thought it was quite a bit better than most of the other routes on this rock. The crux involved rather shaky flaring hand jams, but on low-angled rock, and… more
Genuine Cowhide
Indian Cove
 Sun, Dec 14
2008		 5.10a ** This was a pretty good one, and felt fairly tricky for 10a. But the crux was really just kind of pumpy face climbing on pretty good holds, protected by a bolt. Once you got into… more
Heart Slab
Indian Cove
 Sun, Dec 14
2008		 5.8 The guidebook says this has five bolts, which is a lie. Furthermore, it indicates that two of them are below the big horizontal gash in the middle, and not only did I not see any… more
Mental Physics
Wonderland of Rocks
 Sat, Jan 31
2009		 5.7+ **** I think this is the first time I've ever hiked way out into the Wonderland looking for a particular crag, and actually found it without getting completely lost for at least a… more
Dazed and Confused
Wonderland of Rocks
 Sat, Jan 31
2009		 5.9 *** This was an excellent slab route. Thuy fell once on the first pitch, but otherwise had no difficulty. Like Mental Physics next to it, the second pitch had no pro other than one… more
West Face Overhang
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sat, Feb 21
2009		 5.7 ** It's funny the kind of attention you get if you take a beautiful, voluptuous blonde to Joshua Tree for some climbing. I unfortunately attracted a little attention myself while… more
The Flue
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sat, Feb 21
2009		 5.8 *** This was an outstanding climb: a fun juggy start, followed by a long right-slanting crack that afforded excellent jams most of the way. I can hardly believe I've climbed so many… more
Howard's Horror (direct start)
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sat, Feb 21
2009		 5.10b * I had a little trouble figuring out the start of this route at first, but once I got the idea, it was mostly a one-move wonder. With the regular start, the route is only 5.7. I was… more
Bat CrackTrip Report
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sat, Feb 21
2009		 5.5 * This was pretty fun for me, but perhaps not so pleasant for Amanda. Also, I have to admit it felt a little stout for 5.5... but I guess I'm not a wide-crack hardman like back in… more
Tiptoe
Quail Springs
 Sat, Feb 21
2009		 5.7+ ** Amanda had no real difficulty with this, but was slightly sketched out, and climbed past a bolt without unclipping it once. Funny... reminds me of my first trip to Joshua Tree.
Nurn's Romp
Sheep Pass
 Sat, Feb 28
2009		 5.8 ** This is an outstanding crack, and I really don't know why I haven't done it before, considering that I've climbed routes on this wall at least twice before. Perhaps it was always… more
Walk on the Wild Side (Not enough time)
Sheep Pass
 Sat, Feb 28
2009		 5.7+ **** It's quite a bummer having to add this to my climbing log... didn't make it up a two-pitch route in Joshua Tree before dark. Jeez. Really, it was pretty dumb of us to think we… more
Invisibility Lessons
Split Rocks
 Sun, Mar 1
2009		 5.9 **** This is a fantabulicious crack! The lower part involves some technical footwork before you get to the actual crack. The crux is a 10-foot section of thin hands immediately after a… more
Continuum
Split Rocks
 Sun, Mar 1
2009		 5.8+ *** This one was also excellent, although not as high quality as Invisibility Lessons. The start was probably the crux, a steep but short section of thin hands (with other more… more
Overhang Bypass
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sun, Mar 1
2009		 5.7 *** I can't believe it has taken me this long to get around to doing this über-classic that's right there in the Campground! I think every other time I've considered it, it's been… more
The Eye
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sun, Mar 1
2009		 5.3 *** Holy crap this is a fun easy route! Next time I'm in the general vicinity of the Campground with a noob, I should do this. Or for that matter, next time I'm in the Campground and… more
Right Sawdust Crack
Quail Springs
 Sun, Mar 1
2009		 5.8 ** This is another route that I can't believe I haven't done before, considering how often I finish the day at Trashcan Rock. It's a pretty nice crack that starts at thin hands and… more
Mr. Bunny versus Six Unknown Agents
Lost Horse
 Sun, Apr 26
2009		 5.8 ** A fun route, but short and mostly really easy. A nut that I placed got stuck pretty badly, and Thuy worked on it for a while with no success. So I decided we could do the route… more
Mr. Bunny's Tax Shelter
Lost Horse
 Sun, Apr 26
2009		 5.5 This was easy, but quite fun. I think I'd give it a few stars.
H & R Block
Lost Horse
 Sun, Apr 26
2009		 5.6 * Thuy's first lead! I had noticed this in the guidebook, and when we got to the top of Mr. Bunny versus Six Unknown Agents and I saw it up close, I immediately thought it would be a… more
Tax Man
Lost Horse
 Sun, Apr 26
2009		 5.10a **** This was of course the goal for the day. This is one of those routes that I've been meaning to get on forever, and I can't believe I've gone this long without trying it. It's quite… more
Bloody Tax Break
Lost Horse
 Sun, Apr 26
2009		 5.10b ** An excellent climb, and it actually seemed somewhat easier than Tax Man, just because it had really nice rests throughout. I placed nothing but nuts until the very end, where I… more
Mr. Bunny's Refund Check
Lost Horse
 Sun, Apr 26
2009		 5.10a ** Yet another beautiful straight-in thin crack, albeit a little shorter than the previous two. Clearly, if you like 10a/b finger cracks, IRS Wall is a prime spot. Thuy once again… more
Serpentine
Weeping Wall
 Sat, Jun 6
2009		 5.9 *** This was an excellent and fun route the second time around, just as it had been the first time. Unfortunately, this time the weather didn't cooperate as well, but we all survived.… more
The Long Climb (Wong Climb start)
Northwest Recess
 Sun, Aug 16
2009		 5.8 ** I can't believe it's been three years since I've been to Tahquitz! I was really hoping to do Whodunit, since that is my favorite route here, and it's been years since I've repeated… more
Red Rock Route
Summit Block
 Sun, Aug 16
2009		 5.7 * I noticed this in the guidebook, and thought it would be a fun way to get up to the “true summit” of Tahquitz. So we scurried up this and had lunch at the top. This was quite a fun… more
Dave's Deviation to Upper Royal's ArchTrip Report
West Face
 Sun, Sep 6
2009		 5.10c ** This climb linked up four different routes in five pitches (although we should have done it in four — see below). Here are the pitch-by-pitch details: Dave's Deviation Direct Start… more
Captain HookTrip Report
Buttress of Cracks
 Sat, Sep 19
2009		 5.8 * This was a fairly fun and interesting climb. Getting around the “crocodile's head” on the first pitch was a bit interesting, but not too difficult. Dianne had a little difficulty… more
The Hernia
Buttress of Cracks
 Sat, Sep 19
2009		 5.8 * This was a really fun little route! It was mostly easy, with the exception of a technical crux that consisted of about two moves, about half-way up. Dianne almost got through this… more
The Old Man and the Poodle
Lost Horse
 Sat, Jan 16
2010		 5.8 All of these Hemingway poodle routes were just as good the second time around as I had remembered them being. This one deserves a star or two. This time I again did the direct… more
For Whom the Poodle Tolls
Lost Horse
 Sat, Jan 16
2010		 5.9 * This one deserves at least two stars in my opinion. Just as I had remembered, it had a couple of tricky moves at the beginning, but the rest was much easier. Amanda struggled with… more
A Farewell to Poodles
Lost Horse
 Sat, Jan 16
2010		 5.9 This one also deserves at least two stars, in my opinion. I think it's not as sustained as For Whom the Poodle Tolls right next to it, but the quality of the climbing on it is… more
Walk on the Wild SideTrip Report
Sheep Pass
 Sat, Jan 16
2010		 5.7+ **** This was a truly sublime way to finish the day, although getting down turned out to be a mini-epic. I really should try to start being more attuned to the, shall we say,… more
The Enforcer
The Outback
 Sun, Feb 14
2010		 5.9 * Although very short, this climb was pretty decent. Helene found the crux move to be really reachy, and actually had to pull on a piece of gear to get through it.
The Hit
The Outback
 Sun, Feb 14
2010		 5.9 This was a one-move wonder. That one move was maybe 5.9, but the rest was cake.
Biscuit Eater
The Outback
 Sun, Feb 14
2010		 5.10a * An excellent and really interesting route! I rather stupidly fell on it just as I was exiting the crux section. I just got kind of sloppy, I think... really dumb. After I fell, I… more
The Bruiser
The Outback
 Sun, Feb 14
2010		 5.10c ** This was one of my goals for the day, and I flashed it. That made me pretty happy. It was mostly just very technical, with reasonably good but not excellent rests along the way. It… more
SniperTrip Report
The Outback
 Sun, Feb 14
2010		 5.11a ** I flailed on this pretty badly, although really only on the crux section. I would say that this is a pretty serious lead. Even after having finished it, I don't know if I would… more
Woman's Work Is Never Done
The Outback
 Sun, Feb 14
2010		 5.10c ** As soon as I saw this crack from the base of Hit Man Rock, where we started the day, I thought it looked amazing. When I looked in the guidebook, I was not surprised to find out… more
Blue Collar
The Outback
 Sun, Feb 14
2010		 5.4 * Helene led this just to practice placing gear. She placed mostly nuts, because she thought she especially needed practice placing those... and, well, she was kind of right. Her nut… more
Corn Flakes
The Outback
 Sun, Feb 14
2010		 5.6 * Helene led this one to practice placing leading and placing gear. Apparently she is a very fast learner, because her nut placements were much much better this time than on the… more
Whodunit
Northwest Recess
 Sun, Jun 27
2010		 5.9 *** This climb was as outstanding as I had remembered.
Snake Dike
Half Dome
 Sat, Jul 17
2010		 III 5.7 R *****
Munginella
Lower Yosemite Falls Area
 Thu, Aug 5
2010		 5.6 ****
Selaginella
Lower Yosemite Falls Area
 Thu, Aug 5
2010		 5.8 ***
Bishop's Terrace
Church Bowl
 Sat, Aug 7
2010		 5.8 *****
The Hernia Direct Finish / Aqualung
Buttress of Cracks
 Mon, Sep 6
2010		 5.10a *
Hair Lip
Sideshow Slab
 Mon, Sep 6
2010		 5.10a **
Direct Route/Regular Route
Reed's Pinnacle
 Sun, Sep 19
2010		 5.9 *****
Double Cross
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sat, Oct 16
2010		 5.7+ ***
Geronimo
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sat, Oct 16
2010		 5.7 **
Sidewinder
The Outback
 Sat, Oct 16
2010		 5.10b ****
Super Roof
The Outback
 Sat, Oct 16
2010		 5.9 ***
Pinched Rib
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sat, Oct 16
2010		 5.10a ***
The Flake
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sat, Oct 16
2010		 5.8 **
Lurleen Never Tried It
Lost Horse
 Sat, Oct 30
2010		 5.7
Live From Tasmania
Lost Horse
 Sat, Oct 30
2010		 5.9 *
Mr. Michael Goes to Washington
Lost Horse
 Sun, Nov 14
2010		 5.7/8 *
North Overhang
Hidden Valley Campground
 Sun, Nov 14
2010		 5.9 ***
Rollerball
The Outback
 Sun, Nov 14
2010		 5.10b ****
Keep the Ball Rolling
The Outback
 Sun, Nov 14
2010		 5.9 *
Woman's Work Is Never Done
The Outback
 Sun, Nov 14
2010		 5.10c **
Corn Flakes
The Outback
 Sun, Nov 14
2010		 5.6 *
Working Overtime
The Outback
 Sun, Nov 14
2010		 5.9 *
Pope's Crack, Direct Finish
Echo Rock
 Sat, Nov 27
2010		 5.10b *** I hadn't realized it the first time I did this, but we did the wrong finish. Apparently what Schuster did then was the finish of Moment's Notice (5.6 R): near the end of the… more
Effigy Too
Echo Rock Area
 Sat, Nov 27
2010		 5.10a/b ***
Dummy's Delight
Real Hidden Valley
 Sat, Nov 27
2010		 5.9 ***
Sphincter Quits
Real Hidden Valley
 Sun, Nov 28
2010		 5.9+ ***
Leaping Leaner
Real Hidden Valley
 Sun, Nov 28
2010		 5.6 **
Snnfchtt
Real Hidden Valley
 Sun, Nov 28
2010		 5.8 *
Jumping Jehoshaphat
Real Hidden Valley
 Sun, Nov 28
2010		 5.7 *