5.7 my ass. More like two moves of 5.5 followed by lots of 4th class and
5.easy. Okay, actually we did this slightly wrong. This climb and
Third Time's a Charm cross each other, so that one is
supposed to have a .10b crux followed by cake, and this one is supposed to be
a bunch of cake followed by a 5.7 crux. I definitely liked the way we did
Third Time's a Charm, so to anyone interested, I'd recommend that you do it
that way (i.e. go right at the top), giving it a very nice 5.7 finish, and
save the Lucky Charms for breakfast. The one thing that did make this climb
scary (besides the fact that my partner placed no pro at all, then gave me a
butt belay at the top) was the creature! We had seen
lots of bird crap in the area, and an owl pellet or two, but in the middle of
this climb, we started seeing what looked like large turds, like from a big
dog or something. Finally, we climbed right by a small cave, inside which we
could see a lot more bird crap. That must have been the creature's
lair. I later realized that the turds were actually giant owl pellets, still
moist and dark in color. Apparently, the creature was actually an owl
(probably about the size of a VW bug) that was probably feasting on the local
rabbits (and maybe on some coyotes and bighorn sheep too.)