Comments:

I don't know what the hell I was thinking leading this, but in retrospect I'm really glad I did. This was definitely the hardest trad lead I've done, and although I didn't redpoint it, I got through it just fine. The guidebook calls this R, but it's really not. At the beginning you have no pro other than a fixed pin, but the pin is good. I fell on it twice. That's probably the technical crux, just getting up into the initial dihedral. The physical crux is moving left around an overhang, just above the dihedral. It's fairly sustained, and I fell once there. I wasted time searching for the good hand jams (reach way left), and once I found them, I was too pumped out to continue. After a moment's rest, I got back on and pulled through it. I'd like to go back and try to redpoint this, now that I know the moves a little bit. Aaron said he thought this felt more like 5.11a, but he tried to lieback the flake, which was probably much harder. Go for the jams behind the flake, and it's probably easier (that's what I did.) The body position is a bit awkward, but the jams are solid.