Another ultra-classic that we've been wanting to do for a long time. We both
decided afterwards that we wanted to do ths one again, because we each felt
our technique wasn't “right on” on one pitch or another. I only led
the second pitch, and it was beautiful. Surprisingly, it wasn't really scary at
all, and I didn't need more than one #4 camalot. Also, ignore what the
guidebook says about 2" to 3" cams for the belay at the end of pitch 2. Use
them to protect the roof as you go around it. Perhaps the most fun part about
this climb for me was getting my first bit of booty: a small Rock Empire cam,
in perfect brand new condition, which slid easily out of a crack on the first
pitch. Unfortunately, we accidentally left one of my beautiful dyneema slings
at the summit.