This was an excellent three-pitch route. The first pitch took a splitter 5.8
hand crack to a nice stance. The second pitch, which Shanjean led, went
straight up the inside corner of a giant right-facing dihedral, one of the
“five open books” for which this area is named. The third pitch
started with a really fun undercling traverse to the right under a big roof in
that dihedral, then continued up the dihedral to the top. Shanjean fell once
at the roof, but otherwise cruised through the climb. This was the first climb
on which I got to use my new super-skinny double ropes, and they seemed to do
quite well. Catching a follower fall was no problem (with my Trango Jaws), but
I am kinda glad there were no lead falls.