Sweet sexy crack. This climb reminded me a lot of Poodles Are People Too at
Joshua Tree, in that it required delicate moves and protected with lots of
small nuts. (I placed nothing but nuts, and when I got down we added up the
numbers on them. The sum was 24!) On the other hand, it was a bit easier and
less sustained than Poodles, and not as steep. But it followed a much more
beautiful line: an extremely aesthetic, continuous, slightly right-leaning
thin seam. I didn't get a picture of it, but the cover photo of the July 2005
issue of climbing magazine showed Bob Palais climbing it. I actually met Bob a
few days later while having dinner... he's a professor in the math department
at the University of Utah! I actually didn't quite onsight this, but I did
redpoint it. On my first try, I went a little too far before placing pro, and
I ended up standing on nubbins in the middle of the crux searching for pro. My
feet eventually slipped, and I took a short ground-fall. The second time I
placed gear a bit lower (a #1 stopper!) then just cruised through the crux.