Matt wanted to try leading something fairly easy, so he decided to try this
one. About halfway up, it becomes a real crack climb, and you have to hang on
hand and foot jams while placing gear. This was difficult for him, so he
decided to bail after hanging on a cam twice. I took over and finished the
pitch. I'm glad he didn't fall, because one of the cams he placed (right below
the one he weighted) would definitely not have held... probably not even body
weight. I've seen it many times with people not used to placing gear: they
think cams are supposed to be placed tipped out. I re-placed it in the same
spot, just deeper, and it was bomber.