Statistics for climbs with Aaron Reite at Joshua Tree:

You may click on a location (in the left-most column), a climb type, or a person's name to show only the climbs in that location, of that type, or with that person.

Route
Click for details.		 Date Rating Type Pitches Partner(s) Comments
                                                                                                                        
Right Peyote Crack
The Outback (Peyote Cracks)
 Tue, May 6
2003		 5.8 ** 1 pitch
I followed.		 My first crack climb. I struggled a bit at first, and fell a few times on the initial vertical (or over-vertical?) section. It was thin and flaring, probably not a great one for me… more
Middle Peyote Crack
The Outback (Peyote Cracks)
 Tue, May 6
2003		 5.9 ** 1 pitch
I followed.		 Ironically, though I fell on the previous one, I didn't on this one.
Left Peyote Crack (Bailed at start)
The Outback (Peyote Cracks)
 Tue, May 6
2003		 5.10 ** 1 pitch
I followed.		 The start of this is virtually impossible to protect. Aaron took two (fortunately short) groundfalls trying. Ballnutz might work, but even the black alien wouldn't go. I think… more
Season Opener
The Outback (Steve Canyon)
 Tue, May 6
2003		 5.8 ** 1 pitch
I followed.		 A bit awkward because the crack traversed right, but not hard.
Double Cross
Hidden Valley Campground (The Old Woman)
 Tue, May 6
2003		 5.7+ **** 1 pitch
I followed.		 Awesome crack... the first time I got to feel a really good hand jam.
Sail Away
Real Hidden Valley (Hidden Tower)
 Tue, May 6
2003		 5.8- **** 1 pitch
I followed.		 Nice route... thin crack, but off-vertical. Got a bloody finger from a banged-up cuticle. Guess I should work on my thin crack technique.
Wild Wind
Real Hidden Valley (Hidden Tower)
 Tue, May 6
2003		 5.9 ** 1 pitch
I followed.
Loose Lady
Real Hidden Valley (Houser Buttress)
 Tue, May 6
2003		 5.9+ **** 1 pitch
I followed.		 Classic Joshua Tree friction climb. It was nearing dusk and getting pretty cold, and a gale-force wind kicked up. Feeling pretty sketched out, I stupidly climbed past the first… more
Room to Shroom
Barker Dam (Room to Shroom Area)
 Sun, Oct 5
2003		 5.9 **** 1 pitch
I followed.
Room to Shroom
Barker Dam (Room to Shroom Area)
 Sun, Oct 5
2003		 5.9 **** 1 pitch
I led.		 My first trad lead! I had just followed it and thought it was pretty easy, and we had hiked way out to the middle of nowhere, so I decided to try leading it. I knew the moves and… more
Dung Fu
Lost Horse (Hemingway Buttress)
 Sun, Oct 5
2003		 5.7 * 1 pitch
I followed.		 Fun, and pretty easy. Unfortunately we didn't realize we needed a second rope for the rappel.
White LightningTrip Report
Lost Horse (Hemingway Buttress)
 Sun, Oct 5
2003		 5.7 *** 1 pitch
I followed.		 The Chimichanga Epic (I bet you didn't think it was possible to have an epic at Joshua Tree. Okay, so it wasn't a real epic, just a delay of dinner, when we were starving for… more
The Labyrinth
Lost Horse (Atlantis Wall)
 Mon, Jan 19
2004		 5.7 1 pitch
I followed.		 Deserves a star or two
Wet Pigeon
Lost Horse (Atlantis Wall)
 Mon, Jan 19
2004		 5.8 * 1 pitch
I followed.
Taurus
Lost Horse (Atlantis Wall)
 Mon, Jan 19
2004		 5.6 1 pitch
I led.
Men With Cow's Heads
Lost Horse (Atlantis Wall)
 Mon, Jan 19
2004		 5.5 1 pitch
I led.
Solar Technology
Lost Horse (Atlantis Wall)
 Mon, Jan 19
2004		 5.6 1 pitch
I led.
Annointed Seagull
Lost Horse (Atlantis Wall)
 Mon, Jan 19
2004		 5.8 1 pitch
I followed.		 Deserves a star, maybe two. A little stiff for a 5.8?
Fiendish Fists
Lost Horse (Jimmy Cliff)
 Wed, Mar 24
2004		 5.9 * 1 pitch
I led.		 My first lead fall, onto a yellow alien. Followed very shortly thereafter by my second, onto a number 1 camalot. A good route overall, with thin hand crack up to off-hands.
Friendly Hands
Lost Horse (Jimmy Cliff)
 Wed, Mar 24
2004		 5.10b *** 1 pitch
I followed.
Third World
Lost Horse (Jimmy Cliff)
 Wed, Mar 24
2004		 5.9 * 1 pitch
I led.		 Fun, and not too hard. Traverse right well below the big roof, then move up the dihedral, mostly liebacking if I remember correctly.
The Harder They Fall
Lost Horse (Jimmy Cliff)
 Wed, Mar 24
2004		 5.10a ** 1 pitch
I followed.		 Very fun, and not too hard at all. Even easier than Third World if you carefully look for the right moves, especially when moving around the roof. A “thinking man's crux”, just… more
The Dike
Lost Horse (Jimmy Cliff)
 Wed, Mar 24
2004		 5.10c R ** 1 pitch
I followed.
Short Stop
Lost Horse (Jimmy Cliff)
 Wed, Mar 24
2004		 5.10a 1 pitch
I followed.		 Deserves a star. Fun, but really really short. Like 20 feet. Just a really thin finger crack.
Overhang Bypass/North Overhang
Hidden Valley Campground (Intersection Rock)
 Thu, Mar 25
2004		 5.9 *** 2 pitches
I led 1.		 I led the first pitch of Overhang Bypass (5.7) (we meant to do North Overhang, but started at the wrong place) then Aaron led the second pitch of North Overhang (5.9). The second… more
Tabby Litter
Hidden Valley Campground (The Old Woman)
 Thu, Mar 25
2004		 5.8 1 pitch
I led.		 Pretty fun actually. We just did this to get up to Geronimo.
Geronimo (Got off route...)
Hidden Valley Campground (The Old Woman)
 Thu, Mar 25
2004		 5.7 *** 1 pitch
I led.		 We didn't really do this one right... the whole point is the roof crack. Someday we'll go back and do it the right way. Leave it to Joshua Tree to have a wide roof crack that's… more
Straight Flush
Hidden Valley Campground (Outhouse Rock)
 Thu, Mar 25
2004		 5.8 1 pitch
I led.		 Deserves a star. Really nice crack for the first 30 or 40 feet.
Dolphin
Split Rocks (Isles in the Sky)
 Sat, Oct 16
2004		 5.7 ** 1 pitch
I led.		 Fun climb, and a good warm-up for the new J-Tree season. Beautiful hand crack down low, which opened up into an offwidth, but fortunately a low-angled one, toward the top.
Bird of Fire
Split Rocks (Isles in the Sky)
 Sat, Oct 16
2004		 5.10a **** 1 pitch
I led.		 My first 5.10 crack lead! It was a very good one, and not too hard, really. It looked like it would be harder at the top, where it overhung a little, but actually that part was… more
Grounder
Split Rocks (Isles Corridor)
 Sat, Oct 16
2004		 5.9 1 pitch
I followed.		 Fun, but short. Really good crack for the most part. Deserves a star or two.
Crack #5
Split Rocks (Isles Corridor)
 Sat, Oct 16
2004		 5.9+ *** 1 pitch
I led.		 Also fun but short... looked almost identical to Grounder, but it was a little harder near the top (mainly because it got wider.) I'm not sure why this one gets three stars when… more
Crack #6
Split Rocks (Isles Corridor)
 Sat, Oct 16
2004		 5.10a *** 1 pitch
I led.		 HEINOUS! This one got wide at the top, and there was a small overhang right where it started to get wide. I came reeeeally close to falling off this one; I actually started to fall… more
Crack A
Split Rocks (Isles Corridor)
 Sat, Oct 16
2004		 5.7+ 1 pitch
I followed.		 Very short, easy, and again very wide at the top, but by that point you don't need to use the crack at all.
Crack B
Split Rocks (Isles Corridor)
 Sat, Oct 16
2004		 5.9 1 pitch
I followed.		 Very short, and easy. Like two or three moves that might be 5.9. Then the crack opened up wide, but it was off-vertical enough that you didn't need it.
Exorcist
Sheep Pass (Hall of Horrors)
 Sat, Oct 16
2004		 5.10a *** 1 pitch
I led.		 Awesome thin crack, followed by giant jugs on the face. The crack reminded me very much of some of the thin cracks at Yosemite.
It
Sheep Pass (Hall of Horrors)
 Sat, Oct 16
2004		 5.9 1 pitch
I followed.		 Fun climb, in two distinct sections. The lower one was a nice hand crack, a bit burly for the first few moves, then a bit wide higher up. This took you to a huge ledge, from which… more
Tiptoe
Quail Springs (Trashcan Rock)
 Sat, Oct 16
2004		 5.7+ ** 1 pitch
I led.		 The “midget staircase”, as Julia called it, which Aaron has told me about a few times. This was fun, and actually a bit harder than it looked.
Profundity
Quail Springs (Trashcan Rock)
 Sat, Oct 16
2004		 5.10a 1 pitch
I led.		 This was only my second J-Tree friction climb (the first was Loose Lady, the first time I came here) and yet here I was leading it. Even though it was really short and should have… more
Conservative Policies
Real Hidden Valley (Thin Wall)
 Sat, Oct 30
2004		 5.8 1 pitch
I followed.
Ain't Nothin But a J-Tree Thing
Real Hidden Valley (Thin Wall)
 Sat, Oct 30
2004		 5.6 1 pitch
I followed.
Sarah followed this one, then I followed after her.
Count On Your Fingers
Real Hidden Valley (Thin Wall)
 Sat, Oct 30
2004		 5.9 1 pitch
I led.		 Mostly real easy...
No Calculators Allowed
Real Hidden Valley (Thin Wall)
 Sat, Oct 30
2004		 5.10a ** 1 pitch
I followed.		 This was cake until the very top, where there was a short overhang. The crux was pulling through that with thin hand jams... nice thin hand jams.
The Face of Tammy Faye
Real Hidden Valley (Thin Wall)
 Sat, Oct 30
2004		 5.8 1 pitch
I followed.
This was also pretty easy. Sarah followed it, and didn't have much trouble.
Butterfingers Make Me Horny
Real Hidden Valley (Thin Wall)
 Sat, Oct 30
2004		 5.8/9 1 pitch
I led.
This was way easy for a 5.8/9. Sarah followed this one too, and only had trouble with one move.
Chocolate Is Better Than Sex
Real Hidden Valley (Thin Wall)
 Sat, Oct 30
2004		 5.9+ 1 pitch
I led.		 A bit weird and tricky at the start, but cool once I figured out the right technique. Totally cake after that.
Almost Vertical
Real Hidden Valley (Thin Wall)
 Sat, Oct 30
2004		 5.7 1 pitch
I followed.		 Complete piece of cake. Really, everything on Thin Wall was pretty soft.
Winds of Whoopee
Real Hidden Valley (Miles of Piles Rock)
 Sat, Oct 30
2004		 5.11a *** 1 pitch
I followed.		 This was Aaron's crazy idea... we were going to do Loose Lady, nearby, so that I could lead it. But there was a line at the base of it, so Aaron decided to do this climb instead.… more
200 Motels
Indian Cove (Rattlesnake Buttress)
 Thu, Nov 11
2004		 5.8 *** 1 pitch
I followed.		 Awesome, beautiful finger crack. Unfortunately it only lasted for about 20 feet. After that, the climb was basically over.
Taken For Granite
Indian Cove (Rattlesnake Buttress)
 Thu, Nov 11
2004		 5.8 *** 1 pitch
I led.		 Very fun, albeit quite easy, route. Not such a stellar crack as the previous one, but still fun.
Cactus Cooler
Indian Cove (Rattlesnake Buttress)
 Thu, Nov 11
2004		 5.10b ** 1 pitch
I followed.		 This was an excellent climb, which looked a lot harder than it actually was. Unfortunately, it's not very clean, so you have to be careful. Aaron led, and managed to place gear on… more
Right V Crack
Indian Cove (Short Wall)
 Thu, Nov 11
2004		 5.10a *** 1 pitch
I led.		 Fun route, and fairly difficult (for me anyway). I led it, and fell once. Dammit. I was so close to getting through the crux. (A lot of people have called this a 10c rather than… more
Bombay
Indian Cove (Short Wall)
 Thu, Nov 11
2004		 5.8 * 1 pitch
I led.		 Fun. Easy. Good gear. (I used an offset nut.)
Calcutta
Indian Cove (Short Wall)
 Thu, Nov 11
2004		 5.7+ * 1 pitch
I followed.		 A one-move wonder. That one move is awkward, and warrants the 7+. The rest is barely fifth class.
Double Decker
Lost Horse (Dairy Queen Wall)
 Sat, Dec 4
2004		 5.6 * 1 pitch
I followed.
Mr. Misty Kiss
Lost Horse (Dairy Queen Wall)
 Sat, Dec 4
2004		 5.7 *** 1 pitch
I led.
Biological Clock
Lost Horse (Dairy Queen Wall)
 Sat, Dec 4
2004		 5.9+ * 1 pitch
I followed.		 Definitely fun and deserves a star, but SO not a 5.9, and especially not 9+. This is a one-move wonder, and that one move is really more like 5.7 friction with a bolt right in… more
Frosty Cone
Lost Horse (Dairy Queen Wall)
 Sat, Dec 4
2004		 5.7 *** 1 pitch
I led.		 Super fun. Nothing but jugs the whole way. Probably my favorite on the wall.
Scrumdillyishus
Lost Horse (Dairy Queen Wall)
 Sat, Dec 4
2004		 5.7 * 1 pitch
I followed.		 Also super fun. Again, nothing but jugs the whole way. Aaron's favorite on the wall. Maybe mine too, especially with the fantastic knee-bar that I found.
A Hot Fudge
Lost Horse (Dairy Queen Wall)
 Sat, Dec 4
2004		 5.9 R * 1 pitch
I followed.		 It's indeterminate whether we did this one right, but I think we did the 5.9 (outside the huge groove, on the face) rather than the 5.10 (which I think goes up just inside the… more
Walk on the Wild Side
Sheep Pass (Saddle Rocks)
 Sat, Dec 4
2004		 5.7+ **** 2 pitches
I led 2.		 This was really fun, and gave me a little more (much needed) practice on J-Tree friction slabs. Actually, few moves were true friction moves, as there were lots of edges (hence the… more
Lean To (left)
Geology Tour Road (Perpetual Motion Wall)
 Sat, Jan 22
2005		 5.8 1 pitch
I followed.		 Got a little wide at the top... yuck.
Lean To (right)
Geology Tour Road (Perpetual Motion Wall)
 Sat, Jan 22
2005		 5.10 1 pitch
I led.		 The right crack was better than the left crack. Very thin, and a little funky at the top, but a good climb. Probably 5.10a, though the book doesn't specify.
Georgia O'Keefe
Geology Tour Road (Perpetual Motion Wall)
 Sat, Jan 22
2005		 5.10b 1 pitch
I led.		 This was a super fun friction route. I finally got some good practice doing friction climbs, and was able to lead this without falling.
Perpetual Motion
Geology Tour Road (Perpetual Motion Wall)
 Sat, Jan 22
2005		 5.10d *** 1 pitch
I followed.		 This was the goal for the day. Aaron led it of course, and he managed to onsight it, which was quite an impressive feat. I flailed quite a bit at the crux, unable to secure good… more
Orphan
Hidden Valley Campground (The Old Woman)
 Sat, Jan 22
2005		 5.9 *** 1 pitch
I led.		 This was a pretty fun route, but a serious gruntfest at the top, where it got nasty wide.
The Flake
Hidden Valley Campground (Intersection Rock)
 Sat, Jan 22
2005		 5.8 ** 1 pitch
I led.		 This is an awesome route because it includes a little of everything. And of course, true to Joshua Tree style, even though it's a 5.8, it's not trivial. It starts with a chimney… more
Cranny
Quail Springs (Trashcan Rock)
 Sat, Jan 22
2005		 5.8 ** 1 pitch
I followed.
The Mikado
Indian Cove (The Feudal Wall)
 Sat, Jan 29
2005		 5.6 ** 1 pitch
I followed.
La Reina
Indian Cove (The Feudal Wall)
 Sat, Jan 29
2005		 5.9 ** 1 pitch
I led.		 This was a pretty cool crack. The crux is at the very bottom. I stopped early on at a tricky stance to place pro, and after a minute my right foot slipped. Minor groundfall... oh… more
Crown Jewels
Indian Cove (The Feudal Wall)
 Sat, Jan 29
2005		 5.7 ** 1 pitch
I followed.
Duchess
Indian Cove (The Feudal Wall)
 Sat, Jan 29
2005		 5.6 ** 1 pitch
I led.		 This was fun and easy, and probably the longest climb of the day since I went basically all the way to the top of the rock. During this route we also tested using a Cinch for… more
The Castrum
Indian Cove (The Feudal Wall)
 Sat, Jan 29
2005		 5.10a * 1 pitch
I led.		 This was a fun lead for me. The crux was fairly low, and involved very balancy moves with only a tiny finger-lock for one hand. Of course, the only good place for pro was in this… more
Cool Wind (aka The Rabbi or Red Beckey)
Indian Cove (Billboard Buttress)
 Sat, Jan 29
2005		 5.10a * 1 pitch
I followed.		 This was fun and tricky. The crux was right at the top. The rest was definitely easier. The pro is pretty good all the way through.
Gait of Power
Indian Cove (Billboard Buttress)
 Sat, Jan 29
2005		 5.10b * 1 pitch
I led.		 This climb is essentially a friction boulder problem with a long easy topout. The crux is a very tricky friction move right off the ground. I took three groundfalls in a row before… more
We Dive at Dawn
Indian Cove (Billboard Buttress)
 Sat, Jan 29
2005		 5.8 ** 1 pitch
I followed.		 This was fun, and the crux involved a little bit of awkwardness, if I remember correctly.
Who's First
Indian Cove (Pixie Rock)
 Sat, Jan 29
2005		 5.6 * 1 pitch
I led.		 This was a really fun little lead.
Driving Limitations
Indian Cove (Billboard Buttress)
 Sat, Jan 29
2005		 5.8 ** 1 pitch
I followed.		 I can't really even call this bolted trad, because it wasn't a runout friction slab. It was really just a face climb, and a ridiculously easy one at that. It should be more like… more
Yei-Bei-Chei Crack
The Outback (Steve Canyon)
 Sat, Feb 26
2005		 5.9 * 1 pitch
I followed.		 A good, fairly short, not too hard crack, right next to Watanobe Wall, our real goal for the morning.
Watanobe Wall
The Outback (Steve Canyon)
 Sat, Feb 26
2005		 5.10a ** 1 pitch
I led.		 Good crack, with a well-protected crux near the beginning, then much easier after that.
Double Cross
Hidden Valley Campground (The Old Woman)
 Sat, Feb 26
2005		 5.7+ **** 1 pitch
I led.		 Still an awesome crack... although the awesome part is really just the first fifteen feet or so. And I really don't get why people claim this thing is so hard. It's definitely not… more
Geronimo
Hidden Valley Campground (The Old Woman)
 Sat, Feb 26
2005		 5.7 *** 1 pitch
I led.		 Aaron led this, then we just pulled the rope through so I could lead it. As a result, I didn't actually have to place my own gear, but so what. This was super fun. Probably the… more
Heart and Sole
Echo Rock (West Face)
 Sat, Feb 26
2005		 5.10a **** 1 pitch
I followed.		 This was a fantastic climb. Aaron led it, but I wouldn't mind going back to lead it myself some time. It was quite a heady lead. I don't think I've ever seen Aaron take so much… more
Touch and Go
Echo Rock Area (Echo Cove)
 Sat, Feb 26
2005		 5.9 **** 1 pitch
I led.		 Great crack, and not entirely easy. There was a section at the beginning that was awkward and pretty tricky.
Stichter Quits
Echo Rock (West Face)
 Sat, Feb 26
2005		 5.7 *** 1 pitch
I followed.		 Great little friction route, and for a 5.7, it was tricky! Definitely required faith in one's rubber. NOTE: If you rappel this with a 60m rope, it will only get you to about… more
Looney Toons
The Outback (Rock Hudson)
 Sat, Feb 26
2005		 5.9 *** 1 pitch
I led.		 Really fun climb... soft for a 5.9, I thought. There was a mildly difficult section near the beginning, and an offwidth at the top, but otherwise it was easy. The offwidth gave me… more
Palmreader
Indian Cove (Palmreader Wall)
 Sun, May 1
2005		 5.8 ** 1 pitch
I led.		 Great little hand crack, but way too short.
Scare Way
Indian Cove (Dos Equis Wall)
 Sun, May 1
2005		 5.10b ** 1 pitch
I followed.		 Really a pretty nice climb. The lower part was pretty flaring and slanted significantly to the right, which made it technical (lots of smearing on the face with the right foot)… more
Flare Play
Indian Cove (Dos Equis Wall)
 Sun, May 1
2005		 5.10b * 1 pitch
I led.		 This was hard. To me it seemed quite stiff for 10b, although in retrospect, I suppose if I had seen the correct sequence at the crux, it might have been easier. Suffice it to say… more
Gem
Jumbo Rocks (Conan's Corridor)
 Sun, May 8
2005		 5.8 ** 1 pitch
I followed.
Awesome hand crack. Truly awesome. This should have three or four stars. Aaron led this, for which I am exceedingly jealous.
Colorado Crack
Jumbo Rocks (Conan's Corridor)
 Sun, May 8
2005		 5.9 *** 1 pitch
I followed.
This is the true classic of the area. Will (a.k.a. the Brit) led this, and made fairly short work of it, using almost nothing but nuts. Good man.
Spiderman
Jumbo Rocks (Conan's Corridor)
 Sun, May 8
2005		 5.10a ** 1 pitch
I led.
As usual, after two spectacular cracks, I get stuck with the offwidth. Actually, the first 80% of this was pretty nice, especially the thin part. There were a few parts where the… more
Winter Wine
Jumbo Rocks (Conan's Corridor)
 Sun, May 8
2005		 5.10c ** 1 pitch
I followed.
This was a real nice climb. It looked like there would be no pro (or marginal pro) at or before the crux, but Aaron was able to place two bomber nuts in the thin crack, and without… more
Prepackaged
Lost Horse (Hemingway Buttress)
 Sun, May 8
2005		 5.10a *** 1 pitch
I led.
This was a fine, fine climb. The Brit started leading it, but backed down at the crux, which was near the start. I took over, and finished it up. The crux involves a very thin… more
Poodles Are People Too
Lost Horse (Hemingway Buttress)
 Sun, May 8
2005		 5.10b *** 1 pitch
I followed.
This is one that Aaron and I have been wanting to do for a long time. It was well worth the wait. The first time we had looked at it, it looked runout and scary, but in fact there… more
Overseer
Lost Horse (Hemingway Buttress)
 Sun, May 8
2005		 5.9 *** 1 pitch
I followed.
Also a very nice climb, but probably not quite as high quality as the previous two. The Brit led this one. He had some trouble at the crux headwall, near the top, but he cranked… more
No Self Respect
Wonderland of Rocks (The Flying Fortress)
 Sat, Oct 15
2005		 5.10c *** 1 pitch
I followed.		 Flaring, sharp, unpleasant, and horribly wide in a few places. I have no idea why this has three stars in the guidebook, nor why Todd Gordon calls this a “Yosemite hand slammer”,… more
No Self Confidence
Wonderland of Rocks (The Flying Fortress)
 Sat, Oct 15
2005		 5.10b ** 1 pitch
I led.		 This climb was much more pleasant than the one next to it. This one was actually a really nice hand crack most of the way, but steep, so it wasn't totally easy. There was a small… more
The Old Man Down the Road/New Hampshire, Naturally
Wonderland of Rocks (The Fortress)
 Sat, Oct 15
2005		 5.10b 1 pitch
I followed.		 These are two parallel cracks that are about two feet apart at the base, but get a little bit farther apart as they go up. The left one, “New Hampshire, Naturally”, is a 10b, and… more
Such a Poodle
Lost Horse (Hemingway Buttress)
 Sat, Oct 22
2005		 5.8+ 1 pitch
I led.		 This was easy, except for a one-move slab crux. I fell, here, but actually managed to catch myself, then I realized I was supposed to go further left to get around the tricky spot.
The Importance of Being Ernest
Lost Horse (Hemingway Buttress)
 Sat, Oct 22
2005		 5.10c PG-13 *** N/A The rap anchors we used were right at the top of this climb, and we wanted to try it, but knew it was hard and had sketchy pro, so after taking a look at the route on our rappel,… more
Spoodle
Lost Horse (Hemingway Buttress)
 Sat, Oct 22
2005		 5.9 * 1 pitch
I followed.		 This was a fun one.
Poodles Are People Too
Lost Horse (Hemingway Buttress)
 Sat, Oct 22
2005		 5.10b *** 1 pitch
I led.		 So good! I'm glad I got to lead it this time. I wish they made a tricam smaller than the pink one... it would have come in so handy right before the second crux.
Head Over Heels
Lost Horse (Hemingway Buttress)
 Sat, Oct 22
2005		 5.10a *** 1 pitch
I followed.		 This is one of the coolest routes ever. We did the super fun variation to the roof, namely, we both hung underneath it and heel-hooked until we could pull around the lip. Probably… more
A Farewell to Poodles
Lost Horse (Hemingway Buttress)
 Sat, Oct 22
2005		 5.9 1 pitch
I led.		 Nice climb. First part is slightly tricky, but then it's just easy splitter hand crack for the rest.
The Old Man and the Poodle
Lost Horse (Hemingway Buttress)
 Sat, Oct 22
2005		 5.8 1 pitch
I followed.		 Pretty nice. The guidebook shows a traverse in from the left, but I actually was able to do a direct start that was no harder. Furthermore, there's pro directly below the route in… more
Space Walk
Lost Horse (Hemingway Buttress)
 Sat, Oct 22
2005		 5.8 * 1 pitch
I led.		 The start of this sucked badly (really really badly, like breaking off a giant chunk of rock from 20 feet up badly) but once I got into the actual crack, it was quite cool. A very… more
For Whom the Poodle Tolls
Lost Horse (Hemingway Buttress)
 Sat, Oct 22
2005		 5.9 * 1 pitch
I followed.		 This was the final Hemingway-named poodle route, and it was just as good as the other routes in this area. Just like the other 5.9 next to it, it had a slightly tricky start,… more
Butterfly Crack (Didn't get it this time...)
Quail Springs (Trashcan Rock)
 Sat, Nov 19
2005		 5.11c *** 1 pitch
I led.		 I had been fantasizing about this thing since we'd first looked at it a month ago, and I really wanted to try leading it. We worked on a few moves at the start (the crux), and I… more
The Playwright
Lost Horse (Playhouse Rock)
 Sun, Nov 20
2005		 5.6 1 pitch
I led.		 I ran up this, and Aaron quickly followed, just because it was a crack that looked like it had some potential to be good. Oh well. I guess to get our crack fix for the day, we'd… more
Butterfly Crack
Quail Springs (Trashcan Rock)
 Sun, Nov 20
2005		 5.11c *** 1 pitch
I led.		 I F***ING REDPOINTED THIS! Pardon my french, but damn, that felt awesome. I've had my eye on this climb ever since I first looked at it a month ago, and worked out some of the… more
Silent Scream
Indian Cove (Pixie Rock)
 Sun, Dec 4
2005		 5.10a *** 1 pitch
I led.		 A fun route, but crowded... and crowded with sport climbers.
Poppa Spider
Indian Cove (Spider Wall)
 Sun, Dec 4
2005		 5.9 * 1 pitch
I followed.		 Kinda fun, but quite short, and the rock quality here was not the greatest.
Momma Spider
Indian Cove (Spider Wall)
 Sun, Dec 4
2005		 5.9 1 pitch
I led.		 Interesting and a bit tricky for about one or two moves.
Direct South Face
Indian Cove (Moosedog Tower)
 Sun, Dec 4
2005		 5.9 *** 3 pitches
We did it in 2.
I led 1.		 Excellent, though the best part is definitely the roof. Other than that and a single balancy move at the very beginning of the last “pitch”, most of the climb is fairly easy, but… more
Third Time's a Charm
Indian Cove (Moosedog Tower)
 Sun, Dec 4
2005		 5.10b *** 1 pitch
I led.		 This was awesome, and I was quite glad I got to lead it. It looked like the crux was going to be a wee bit runout, but it actually protected quite well. The crux is the short… more
Lucky Charms
Indian Cove (Moosedog Tower)
 Sun, Dec 4
2005		 5.7 * 1 pitch
I followed.		 5.7 my ass. More like two moves of 5.5 followed by lots of 4th class and 5.easy. Okay, actually we did this slightly wrong. This climb and Third Time's a Charm cross each other, so… more
The Swift
Lost Horse (Lost Horse Wall)
 Tue, Dec 13
2005		 5.7 ** 2 pitches
I led 1.		 This was pretty fun and easy. The “improbable move right” was not too improbable, and was heavily chalked.
Bird on a Wire
Lost Horse (Lost Horse Wall)
 Tue, Dec 13
2005		 5.10a *** 2 pitches
I led 1.		 This was excellent. I led the first pitch, and unfortunately for Aaron I ran it almost to the top, leaving him with only a 30-foot easy pitch. I also protected the climb almost… more
Dappled Mare/Roan Way
Lost Horse (Lost Horse Wall)
 Tue, Dec 13
2005		 5.8 ** 2 pitches
I led 1.		 I led the first pitch of Dappled Mare, then Aaron did Roan Way instead of the usual finish, since he had done Dappled Mare before. Both pitches were nice. The second was a full 200… more
Right Lizard Crack
Lost Horse (Lizard's Hangout)
 Tue, Dec 13
2005		 5.9 * 1 pitch
I led.		 This was fun, and a bit tricky, but quite short.
Left Lizard Crack
Lost Horse (Lizard's Hangout)
 Tue, Dec 13
2005		 5.10d R * 1 pitch
I followed.		 This was super fun, with a very short crux. And I highly disagree with the R. The crux protected well with nuts, and probably would have taken cams as well. The upper part was… more
Chicken Lizard
Lost Horse (Lizard's Hangout)
 Tue, Dec 13
2005		 5.10b * 1 pitch
I led.		 This seemed like the hardest climb of the day, because it was pretty sustained. And this one deserved the R, not Left Lizard Crack. It protected decently well, but the hardest… more
Rock-A-Lot
Lost Horse (Rock Garden Valley)
 Sun, Jan 29
2006		 5.7 * 1 pitch
I followed.		 A good easy start to the day.
Young Lust
Lost Horse (Rock Garden Valley)
 Sun, Jan 29
2006		 5.9 *** 1 pitch
I led.		 Really nice climb, but a bit soft.
Euthyphro
Lost Horse (Rock Garden Valley)
 Sun, Jan 29
2006		 5.9 * 1 pitch
I followed.		 Really nice climb, but a bit soft.
Spitwad
Lost Horse (Rock Garden Valley)
 Sun, Jan 29
2006		 5.10a ** 1 pitch
I led.		 Excellent climb, but also a bit soft for 10a. More like 5.9.
Lewd and Lascivious Conduct
Lost Horse (Rock Garden Valley)
 Sun, Jan 29
2006		 5.10c R * N/A Fun, and not too hard for 10c, but I don't think I'd want to lead it. I climbed it first, then belayed Aaron up. Neither of us fell, but still, there's a long section in the middle… more
Smithereens
Lost Horse (Rock Garden Valley)
 Sun, Jan 29
2006		 5.9 *** 1 pitch
I followed.		 Very nice climb.
Split Personality
Lost Horse (Rock Garden Valley)
 Sun, Jan 29
2006		 5.9 *** 1 pitch
I led.		 Good one, and it felt harder than all the 9's and the 10a on the left side of the wall. The upper part is an excellent thin crack. At the top of this, while belaying Aaron up, a… more
Rock Candy
Lost Horse (Rock Garden Valley)
 Sun, Jan 29
2006		 5.9 *** 1 pitch
I followed.		 Fun, and definitely more solid for the grade than the stuff to the left. While Aaron was leading, the peregrine falcon I'd seen at the top of Split Personality flew by again, but… more
Double Dogleg
Lost Horse (Rock Garden Valley)
 Sun, Jan 29
2006		 5.7 *** 1 pitch
I led.		 Fun and easy... but maybe harder than the 5.8 further to the right! At the top of this climb, the peregrine falcon I'd seen on the previous two routes flew by again, this time even… more
Beck's Bet
Lost Horse (Rock Garden Valley)
 Sun, Jan 29
2006		 5.8 * 1 pitch
I followed.		 Very easy. Aaron on-sight free soloed this without even meaning to. He just ran up it without feeling any need to place gear.
Uncle Fester
Lost Horse (Left Hand of Darkness)
 Sun, Jan 29
2006		 5.10d * 1 pitch
I led.		 I onsighted this! This was probably my hardest onsight yet, so I was quite proud. It's an outstanding, clean, super-thin crack, and the crux is very short: about two or three moves… more
North Overhang
Hidden Valley Campground (Intersection Rock)
 Sun, Feb 12
2006		 5.9 *** 2 pitches
I led 1.		 We warmed up on this one. Aaron took the first easy pitch, and I took the second. Quite embarassingly, I fell at the crux of this. Especially weird considering that I've followed… more
Lower/Upper Right Ski Track
Hidden Valley Campground (Intersection Rock)
 Sun, Feb 12
2006		 5.10b *** 1 pitch
I followed.		 This was a pretty cool climb. The crux protects pretty well, but you have to really decide whether you can fight the pump long enough to place gear. Aaron found it easier to just… more
Left Ski Track
Hidden Valley Campground (Intersection Rock)
 Sun, Feb 12
2006		 5.11a *** 1 pitch
I followed.		 I flashed this! Too bad I was following, but still, I was pretty psyched about it. Aaron had to hang a few times, but this was at least partly because he was worried about the… more
Half Track
Hidden Valley Campground (Intersection Rock)
 Sun, Feb 12
2006		 5.10a * 1 pitch
I led.		 This was a great little route, and pretty tricky. The start is nearly impossible to protect, and is probably the crux, with delicate friction moves and a few tiny crimps. The seam… more
Keep the Ball Rolling
The Outback (Rollerball Formation)
 Sat, Mar 4
2006		 5.9 1 pitch
I led.		 Fun and pretty easy. Looked like it had some loose stuff, but it was mostly pretty solid.
Rollerball
The Outback (Rollerball Formation)
 Sat, Mar 4
2006		 5.10b **** 1 pitch
I followed.		 Sweet climb. The roof was a bit pumpy, but the jams were just unbelievably good. Aaron onsighted this. I unfortunately fell at the lower technical crux, mostly due to carelessness.… more
Roller Coaster
The Outback (Rollerball Formation)
 Sat, Mar 4
2006		 5.11c 1 pitch
I followed.		 Deserves a star... or four or five. Really awesome for a sport climb. I originally tried leading this, and got most of the way through the lower crux before falling the first time.… more
Illusion Dweller
Real Hidden Valley (The Sentinel)
 Sat, Mar 4
2006		 5.10b ***** 1 pitch
I led.		 AKA The Kandy-Kolored Tangerine-Flake Streamline Baby. I finally got to climb this classic, and after all the hype from various friends of mine, I was really glad I onsighted it.… more
Clean and Jerk
Real Hidden Valley (Sports Challenge Rock)
 Sat, Mar 4
2006		 5.10c **** 1 pitch
I followed.		 I freakin' flashed this! Once again, though, I was following, and in this case, that made a huge difference. With Left Ski Track, which we did the last time we were here, I felt… more
Ace of Spades
Quail Springs (White Cliffs of Dover)
 Sun, Apr 30
2006		 5.9 *** 1 pitch
I led.		 Nice hand crack. I started up the dihedral and delayed the decision of which of the two beautiful three-star 5.9 hand cracks to choose. When I reached the point where they… more
Popular Mechanics
Quail Springs (White Cliffs of Dover)
 Sun, Apr 30
2006		 5.9 *** 1 pitch
I followed.		 Aaron led the right hand crack, up the main dihedral. Also really nice.
Digital Watch
Quail Springs (White Cliffs of Dover)
 Sun, Apr 30
2006		 5.10d ** 1 pitch
I led.		 I led this, and unfortunately hang-dogged it quite a bit before I figured out that the best approach was to layback it. It was tricky, but not too bad, and it protected quite well.
Jack of Hearts
Quail Springs (White Cliffs of Dover)
 Sun, Apr 30
2006		 5.9 * 1 pitch
I followed.		 This started out as a really really nice hand crack. I think it loses a star or two at the end, but it's not really bad or anything. However, Aaron got the rope pinched in the… more
Tossed Green
Quail Springs (Hound Rock)
 Sun, Apr 30
2006		 5.10a *** 1 pitch
I led.		 This was an excellent thin crack, and one I'd wanted to do for a long time.
An Eye to the West
Quail Springs (Hound Rock)
 Sun, Apr 30
2006		 5.9 * 1 pitch
I followed.		 This was the decent looking 5.9 hand crack to the left of Tossed Green. It was pretty nice, but probably nothing to write home about. After this climb, as we were walking around to… more
Right Baskerville Crack
Quail Springs (Baskerville Rock)
 Sun, Apr 30
2006		 5.10a *** 1 pitch
I led.		 An excellent, short, tricky climb. The crux was really one fairly pumpy move, essentially doing a pullup on a large crimp, and desperately reaching for a finger-lock. The move was… more
Damper
Hidden Valley Campground (Chimney Rock)
 Fri, Feb 2
2007		 5.9 ** 1 pitch
I led.
I never thought I would really enjoy a fist crack, but this thing was pretty sweet! Really locker fist jams! Getting down from the top in the dark was almost an epic though.
Pete's Handful
Hidden Valley Campground (The Blob)
 Sat, Feb 3
2007		 5.10a ** 1 pitch
I followed.
Nathaniel led this. It was fairly short, but pretty damn pumpy for a 10a.
Chicken Mechanics
Lost Horse (Ken Black Memorial Dome)
 Sat, Feb 3
2007		 5.9 * 1 pitch
I led.
This was super fun, and I'm glad I got to lead it.
Pacific Ave. Dorm
Lost Horse (Ken Black Memorial Dome)
 Sat, Feb 3
2007		 5.7 * 1 pitch
I followed.
Softest 5.7 in the park, hands down. Deserves a star for its nice big jugs. (Mmmmmm... nice big soft jugs....)
Poultry Pilots
Lost Horse (Ken Black Memorial Dome)
 Sat, Feb 3
2007		 5.7 1 pitch
I followed.
Aaron led this.
Blackheart
Lost Horse (Ken Black Memorial Dome)
 Sat, Feb 3
2007		 5.10b * 1 pitch
I led.
This was devious! At one point I just stood there for a minute or two trying to figure out what the hell to do next. It ended up being a pretty cool move, not too terribly… more
Hands Off
Hidden Valley Campground (The Wall)
 Sun, Feb 4
2007		 5.8 *** 1 pitch
I led.
Very nice finger crack! Danielle had little difficulty with it. Indy also enjoyed hanging out at the base of the route!
Mike's Books
Hidden Valley Campground (Intersection Rock)
 Sun, Feb 4
2007		 5.8 ** 2 pitches
I led 0.
After having a very lazy climbing day, because we were all just really tired, we decided to finish up on this. Aaron led both pitches, and Danielle followed with little difficulty.