Ascent of Wholesome Fullback

Sweet sweet sweet! I led the first pitch of this, and even though it's only 5.10a, I might consider it one of my prouder onsights. This didn't feel like typical Red Rocks “soft” 10a. It also wasn't typical Red Rocks face climbing along a crack. Rather, it had quite a bit of beautiful splitter crack climbing. The initial 10a crux wasn't too hard, just delicate and technical, and it protected beautifully with small nuts. The splitter 5.9 hand crack following that was downright sexy (it was tight hands for me, but sexy nonetheless.) I placed a #2 Camalot at the beginning of it, and ran it out from there. The traverse under the small roof was not hard, with good holds and good feet. There was no pro that I could see, so I placed a piece before the traverse and extended it with a double-length sling to prevent rope drag. Unfortunately, I broke off part of a hold on the traverse, and I felt really bad about this. It wasn't critical or anything, and the route will be no harder without it (I didn't even fall when it broke off, because my other hand and both feet were so solid), but still, I felt bad. I just shouldn't have grabbed that part of the hold. Anyway, the real crux is not the beginning thin crack, nor the traverse under the roof, but rather the few moves up a very thin crack immediately after the traverse. I clipped a very solid-looking fixed nut here, then pasted a toe in a corner (the best thing I could find for my left foot... my right foot was high to my right smearing on nothing), and I came really close to popping off when that toe slipped. Somehow I managed to stay on, however, and I moved up to where the crack widened and got easier. The rest of the pitch was beautiful 5.8 hands. Altogether, the pitch was long, quite sustained, and absolutely beautiful. The second pitch was trivial and short.