OH MY GOD THIS WAS GOOD! This might have been the single best pitch of crack
climbing I've ever done anywhere. (Of course, I haven't been to Indian Creek
yet....) We just top-roped this on the way down from Wholesome Fullback, and
man was it beautiful. The first twenty or so feet is an immaculate splitter
hand crack, absolutely the perfect size for my hands, ending at a good rest
stance. The next twenty or so feet consists of a thin crack that affords
stellar liebacking, pumpy of course but not too difficult, and again this ends
at a decent rest (if you're slightly creative.) The last section looked hard,
with a small roof and a thin crack, but the right combination of hand jams and
face holds made it much easier than it had appeared. I would not call this
5.10d by Joshua Tree or Yosemite standards, but it certainly wasn't easy. Also,
the first pitch (apparently 5.8) looked really nice, but the second pitch is
extremely runout 5.9 slab. If not for the runout, I might really want to climb
this thing from the ground up some time.