Statistics:
- Total climbs attempted: 503
- Successful, complete climbs: 487
- No. of different routes successfully climbed: 404
- Total no. of pitches led: 490
You may click on a location (in the left-most column), a climb type, or a person's name to show only the climbs in that location, of that type, or with that person.
Sort:
- Chronologically ←
- By location
- By route name
- By difficulty rating
- By grade
Route Click for details. |
Date | Rating | Comments |
---|---|---|---|
Right Peyote Crack The Outback Joshua Tree |
Tue, May 6 2003 |
5.8 ** | My first crack climb. I struggled a bit at first, and fell a few times on the initial vertical (or over-vertical?) section. It was thin and flaring, probably not a great one for me… more |
Middle Peyote Crack The Outback Joshua Tree |
Tue, May 6 2003 |
5.9 ** | Ironically, though I fell on the previous one, I didn't on this one. |
Left Peyote Crack (Bailed at start) The Outback Joshua Tree |
Tue, May 6 2003 |
5.10 ** | The start of this is virtually impossible to protect. Aaron took two (fortunately short) groundfalls trying. Ballnutz might work, but even the black alien wouldn't go. I think… more |
Season Opener The Outback Joshua Tree |
Tue, May 6 2003 |
5.8 ** | A bit awkward because the crack traversed right, but not hard. |
Double Cross Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Tue, May 6 2003 |
5.7+ **** | Awesome crack... the first time I got to feel a really good hand jam. |
Sail Away Real Hidden Valley Joshua Tree |
Tue, May 6 2003 |
5.8- **** | Nice route... thin crack, but off-vertical. Got a bloody finger from a banged-up cuticle. Guess I should work on my thin crack technique. |
Wild Wind Real Hidden Valley Joshua Tree |
Tue, May 6 2003 |
5.9 ** | |
Loose Lady Real Hidden Valley Joshua Tree |
Tue, May 6 2003 |
5.9+ **** | Classic Joshua Tree friction climb. It was nearing dusk and getting pretty cold, and a gale-force wind kicked up. Feeling pretty sketched out, I stupidly climbed past the first… more |
Fingertrip West Face Tahquitz |
Tue, Jun 3 2003 |
5.7 *** | My first multi-pitch. Nice climb, but maybe too easy! |
Joyride Blue Velvet Buttress Williamson |
Sun, Jul 27 2003 |
5.7 * | My first lead ever. Quite easy and short, but fun. |
Don't look at me! Blue Velvet Buttress Williamson |
Sun, Jul 27 2003 |
5.10a/b | |
Days Of Future Passed Generation Wall Williamson |
Sun, Jul 27 2003 |
5.9 * | |
Generation Gap Generation Wall Williamson |
Sun, Jul 27 2003 |
5.9 ** | |
The Hired Gun Generation Wall Williamson |
Sun, Jul 27 2003 |
5.10a *** | Half top-roped, but led the crux, just to rescue a few biners... |
Room to Shroom Barker Dam Joshua Tree |
Sun, Oct 5 2003 |
5.9 **** | |
Room to Shroom Barker Dam Joshua Tree |
Sun, Oct 5 2003 |
5.9 **** | My first trad lead! I had just followed it and thought it was pretty easy, and we had hiked way out to the middle of nowhere, so I decided to try leading it. I knew the moves and… more |
Dung Fu Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Oct 5 2003 |
5.7 * | Fun, and pretty easy. Unfortunately we didn't realize we needed a second rope for the rappel. |
White Lightning Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Oct 5 2003 |
5.7 *** | The Chimichanga Epic (I bet you didn't think it was possible to have an epic at Joshua Tree. Okay, so it wasn't a real epic, just a delay of dinner, when we were starving for… more |
The Labyrinth Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Mon, Jan 19 2004 |
5.7 | Deserves a star or two |
Wet Pigeon Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Mon, Jan 19 2004 |
5.8 * | |
Taurus Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Mon, Jan 19 2004 |
5.6 | |
Men With Cow's Heads Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Mon, Jan 19 2004 |
5.5 | |
Solar Technology Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Mon, Jan 19 2004 |
5.6 | |
Annointed Seagull Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Mon, Jan 19 2004 |
5.8 | Deserves a star, maybe two. A little stiff for a 5.8? |
Trip to Red Rocks: Friday, February 13th, 2004 through Monday, February 16th, 2004 | |||
Olive Oil Juniper Canyon Red Rocks |
Sat, Feb 14 2004 |
5.7 ***** | Really fun, easy route. A few exposed sections. Only my second multi-pitch, and my first time leading on a multi-pitch. We did this in four pitches with some simul-climbing, and I… more |
Dark Shadows Pine Creek Canyon Red Rocks |
Sat, Feb 14 2004 |
5.8 ***** | Excellent route. Fairly long and very exposed for only three pitches. The last pitch, on very varnished sandstone, is particularly interesting. Several times my shoes squeaked on… more |
Crimson Chrysalis Juniper Canyon Red Rocks |
Sun, Feb 15 2004 |
IV 5.8+ ***** | Incredibly beautiful route, incredible exposure on the last several pitches, and just a perfect day altogether. Definitely the high point (literally and figuratively) of my… more |
Trip to Joshua Tree: Wednesday, March 24th, 2004 through Thursday, March 25th, 2004 | |||
Fiendish Fists Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Wed, Mar 24 2004 |
5.9 * | My first lead fall, onto a yellow alien. Followed very shortly thereafter by my second, onto a number 1 camalot. A good route overall, with thin hand crack up to off-hands. |
Friendly Hands Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Wed, Mar 24 2004 |
5.10b *** | |
Third World Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Wed, Mar 24 2004 |
5.9 * | Fun, and not too hard. Traverse right well below the big roof, then move up the dihedral, mostly liebacking if I remember correctly. |
The Harder They Fall Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Wed, Mar 24 2004 |
5.10a ** | Very fun, and not too hard at all. Even easier than Third World if you carefully look for the right moves, especially when moving around the roof. A “thinking man's crux”, just… more |
The Dike Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Wed, Mar 24 2004 |
5.10c R ** | |
Short Stop Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Wed, Mar 24 2004 |
5.10a | Deserves a star. Fun, but really really short. Like 20 feet. Just a really thin finger crack. |
Aiguille de Joshua Tree Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Wed, Mar 24 2004 |
5.6 X *** | Totally fun, and we got some great pictures. |
Overhang Bypass/North Overhang Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Thu, Mar 25 2004 |
5.9 *** | I led the first pitch of Overhang Bypass (5.7) (we meant to do North Overhang, but started at the wrong place) then Aaron led the second pitch of North Overhang (5.9). The second… more |
Tabby Litter Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Thu, Mar 25 2004 |
5.8 | Pretty fun actually. We just did this to get up to Geronimo. |
Geronimo (Got off route...) Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Thu, Mar 25 2004 |
5.7 *** | We didn't really do this one right... the whole point is the roof crack. Someday we'll go back and do it the right way. Leave it to Joshua Tree to have a wide roof crack that's… more |
Straight Flush Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Thu, Mar 25 2004 |
5.8 | Deserves a star. Really nice crack for the first 30 or 40 feet. |
Trip to Red Rocks: Wednesday, March 31st, 2004 through Friday, April 2nd, 2004 | |||
Dream of Wild Turkeys Black Velvet Canyon Red Rocks |
Thu, Apr 1 2004 |
5.10a ***** | Great route. We swapped leads the whole way, but even with the odd number of pitches, we each got to lead the same amount, because I accidentally combined pitches 5 and 6. That was… more |
Sour Mash Black Velvet Canyon Red Rocks |
Fri, Apr 2 2004 |
5.10a ***** | Excellent route. Again we swapped leads the whole way. I enjoyed this one a little more than Wild Turkeys, partly because I got some really fun leads: a small 5.8 roof on pitch 2,… more |
Epinephrine Black Velvet Canyon Red Rocks |
Sat, Apr 24 2004 |
IV/V 5.9 ***** | An all-time classic. A little bit of everything on this one: chimneying, crack, liebacking, and beautiful face climbing. We did the 4th-class alternative start to get past another… more |
Fingertrip West Face Tahquitz |
Sun, May 9 2004 |
5.7 *** | Climbed with Erwin Lau, using much of Aaron's rack, plus my own gear. This was a lot more fun the second time around, probably because I was leading the whole thing. |
Planet of the Apes Planet of the Apes Wall Malibu Creek State Park |
Sun, May 16 2004 |
5.11a | On-sighted this. Didn't seem so hard. Fun, but short. Lots of crimps and small pockets. |
Spider Monkey Planet of the Apes Wall Malibu Creek State Park |
Sun, May 16 2004 |
5.11b | On-sighted this. Didn't seem so hard. Fun, but short. Lots of crimps and small pockets. |
Monkey Business (Too hard for me!) Planet of the Apes Wall Malibu Creek State Park |
Sun, May 16 2004 |
5.11c | Pretty burly, with lots of tiny crimps. Didn't even make it to the crux, since I strained a tendon trying to keep from coming off at one point. |
Guerilla Drilla Stumbling Blocks Malibu Creek State Park |
Sun, May 16 2004 |
5.10a | On-sighted this. Very short, and totally easy until the last few moves. |
The Third Degree Stumbling Blocks Malibu Creek State Park |
Sun, May 16 2004 |
5.10b | On-sighted this. A little harder, but not much. |
Traitor Horn West Face Tahquitz |
Sun, Jun 6 2004 |
5.8 ** | Climbed with Corinne Lee, using much of Aaron's rack, plus my own gear. A very fun route, though the really good part is a very short section. Two major notes: the real route is… more |
Whodunit Northwest Recess Tahquitz |
Fri, Jun 18 2004 |
5.9 *** | Aaron and I had been wanting to climb this for a year, and we finally got to. It was a stellar route, and well worth the wait. We did it in six pitches with no simul-climbing,… more |
Traitor Horn West Face Tahquitz |
Fri, Jun 18 2004 |
5.8 ** | We ran up this after doing Whodunit, since we had plenty of daylight left. This time, we simul-climbed the easy first part (with me leading), up to the beginning of the crux pitch,… more |
White Maiden's Walkaway Maiden Buttress Tahquitz |
Sun, Jul 18 2004 |
5.4 ** | A bit of an epic, with Corinne leading and me following. A second party came up behind us, with Ken leading and Mike following. |
The Open Book South Face Tahquitz |
Wed, Jul 28 2004 |
5.9 *** | Another ultra-classic that we've been wanting to do for a long time. We both decided afterwards that we wanted to do ths one again, because we each felt our technique wasn't “right… more |
The Long Climb (Wong Climb start) Northwest Recess Tahquitz |
Wed, Jul 28 2004 |
5.8 ** | A nice long classic that has been on our list for a while, and was one of the few good routes in the shade (mostly in the shade). The route turned out to not be so long, since we… more |
Sahara Terror Northwest Recess Tahquitz |
Sat, Aug 21 2004 |
5.7 ** | This was Dan's first multipitch, and I think it was pretty much his first real trad route. The route was suggested by Tony Chang, James Kim, and Roger Suen, and Dan liked the sound… more |
Whodunit Northwest Recess Tahquitz |
Wed, Aug 25 2004 |
5.9 *** | My second ascent of Whodunit, definitely my favorite climb at Tahquitz so far. This time I climbed with Tung Nguyen, his first time trad climbing, so of course I led the whole… more |
Trip to Yosemite: Saturday, September 11th, 2004 through Tuesday, September 21st, 2004 | |||
Regular Route Fairview Dome Tuolumne Meadows |
Sat, Sep 11 2004 |
IV 5.9 ***** | The first of three NAClassics that we would clmb in four days. And a twelve-pitch grade IV that we climbed in less than four hours. Awesome, and totally fun. |
Nutcracker Eagle Creek Area Yosemite Valley |
Sun, Sep 12 2004 |
5.8 ***** | We skipped the real first two pitches of this, to get past a huge mass of crowds. The rest of the climb was fun. |
East Buttress Middle Cathedral Yosemite Valley |
Mon, Sep 13 2004 |
IV 5.10c ***** | Incredible route, and one of the hardest and most serious I had done to date. I also got to do my hardest lead yet in the middle of this route. |
Snake Dike Half Dome Yosemite Valley |
Tue, Sep 14 2004 |
III 5.7 R ***** | Climbed with Aaron Reite and John Leo. An excellent and truly fun climb, and a really long day altogether. |
Central Pillar of Frenzy (First 3 pitches only) Middle Cathedral Yosemite Valley |
Sat, Sep 18 2004 |
5.9 ***** | We just climbed the first three pitches (5.9 and below) of this long classic. (The whole climb is a grade V, and goes at 5.10d.) They were quite nice, despite a bit of wide stuff… more |
The Braille Book Higher Cathedral Yosemite Valley |
Sun, Sep 19 2004 |
5.8 **** | A bit of an epic... the trip report, entitled “Climbing in a Winter Wonderland”, is a must read. |
Jamcrack Route Lower Yosemite Falls Area Yosemite Valley |
Mon, Sep 20 2004 |
5.9 *** | Very nice crack. Maybe a little soft. |
Bummer Lower Yosemite Falls Area Yosemite Valley |
Mon, Sep 20 2004 |
5.10c *** | Fun climb, and I did it cleanly with no problems. Maybe I should have tried leading it? Probably not. |
Maggie's Farm Nabisco Canyon Stoney Point |
Sun, Oct 3 2004 |
C2+ | This was a practice aid climb for me, and the first time I actually tried aid climbing outdoors. Up until then, I'd just been playing around in the gym. I did this by myself, but… more |
Trip to Zion: Friday, October 8th, 2004 through Sunday, October 10th, 2004 | |||
Prodigal Sun Angel's Landing Zion |
Sat, Oct 9 2004 |
V C2+ *** | My first wall This was my first big-wall, and in fact Aaron's first as well. Though he had attempted the Nose more than a year earlier, and had to bail due to crowds, he had very… more |
Dolphin Split Rocks Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 16 2004 |
5.7 ** | Fun climb, and a good warm-up for the new J-Tree season. Beautiful hand crack down low, which opened up into an offwidth, but fortunately a low-angled one, toward the top. |
Bird of Fire Split Rocks Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 16 2004 |
5.10a **** | My first 5.10 crack lead! It was a very good one, and not too hard, really. It looked like it would be harder at the top, where it overhung a little, but actually that part was… more |
Grounder Split Rocks Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 16 2004 |
5.9 | Fun, but short. Really good crack for the most part. Deserves a star or two. |
Descent Crack Split Rocks Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 16 2004 |
5.2 | This was just the route we used to get down... so we free-solo downclimbed it multiple times. It really shouldn't be called 5.2... more like 4th class. |
Crack #5 Split Rocks Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 16 2004 |
5.9+ *** | Also fun but short... looked almost identical to Grounder, but it was a little harder near the top (mainly because it got wider.) I'm not sure why this one gets three stars when… more |
Crack #6 Split Rocks Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 16 2004 |
5.10a *** | HEINOUS! This one got wide at the top, and there was a small overhang right where it started to get wide. I came reeeeally close to falling off this one; I actually started to fall… more |
Crack A Split Rocks Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 16 2004 |
5.7+ | Very short, easy, and again very wide at the top, but by that point you don't need to use the crack at all. |
Crack #2 Split Rocks Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 16 2004 |
5.6 | This was actually a really excellent hand crack. Probably the nicest crack of that size that we climbed all day. It was easy and pretty short, so Aaron and I each just soloed it. |
Crack B Split Rocks Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 16 2004 |
5.9 | Very short, and easy. Like two or three moves that might be 5.9. Then the crack opened up wide, but it was off-vertical enough that you didn't need it. |
Exorcist Sheep Pass Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 16 2004 |
5.10a *** | Awesome thin crack, followed by giant jugs on the face. The crack reminded me very much of some of the thin cracks at Yosemite. |
It Sheep Pass Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 16 2004 |
5.9 | Fun climb, in two distinct sections. The lower one was a nice hand crack, a bit burly for the first few moves, then a bit wide higher up. This took you to a huge ledge, from which… more |
Tiptoe Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 16 2004 |
5.7+ ** | The “midget staircase”, as Julia called it, which Aaron has told me about a few times. This was fun, and actually a bit harder than it looked. |
B-1 Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 16 2004 |
5.1 * | We used this as our descent several times... I also soloed up it once. |
Profundity Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 16 2004 |
5.10a | This was only my second J-Tree friction climb (the first was Loose Lady, the first time I came here) and yet here I was leading it. Even though it was really short and should have… more |
B-2 Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 16 2004 |
5.3 * | |
B-3 Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 16 2004 |
5.3 | |
Walkway Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 16 2004 |
5.4 R | This might have been the most fun free solo in this area. The “R” part doesn't matter when you're soloing, but it wasn't really R anyway. Just the first real move would be hard to… more |
Trip to Joshua Tree: Friday, October 29th, 2004 through Saturday, October 30th, 2004 | |||
Conservative Policies Real Hidden Valley Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 30 2004 |
5.8 | |
Ain't Nothin But a J-Tree Thing Real Hidden Valley Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 30 2004 |
5.6 | Sarah followed this one, then I followed after her. |
Count On Your Fingers Real Hidden Valley Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 30 2004 |
5.9 | Mostly real easy... |
No Calculators Allowed Real Hidden Valley Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 30 2004 |
5.10a ** | This was cake until the very top, where there was a short overhang. The crux was pulling through that with thin hand jams... nice thin hand jams. |
The Face of Tammy Faye Real Hidden Valley Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 30 2004 |
5.8 | This was also pretty easy. Sarah followed it, and didn't have much trouble. |
Butterfingers Make Me Horny Real Hidden Valley Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 30 2004 |
5.8/9 | This was way easy for a 5.8/9. Sarah followed this one too, and only had trouble with one move. |
Chocolate Is Better Than Sex Real Hidden Valley Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 30 2004 |
5.9+ | A bit weird and tricky at the start, but cool once I figured out the right technique. Totally cake after that. |
Almost Vertical Real Hidden Valley Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 30 2004 |
5.7 | Complete piece of cake. Really, everything on Thin Wall was pretty soft. |
Winds of Whoopee Real Hidden Valley Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 30 2004 |
5.11a *** | This was Aaron's crazy idea... we were going to do Loose Lady, nearby, so that I could lead it. But there was a line at the base of it, so Aaron decided to do this climb instead.… more |
200 Motels Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Thu, Nov 11 2004 |
5.8 *** | Awesome, beautiful finger crack. Unfortunately it only lasted for about 20 feet. After that, the climb was basically over. |
Taken For Granite Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Thu, Nov 11 2004 |
5.8 *** | Very fun, albeit quite easy, route. Not such a stellar crack as the previous one, but still fun. |
Cactus Cooler Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Thu, Nov 11 2004 |
5.10b ** | This was an excellent climb, which looked a lot harder than it actually was. Unfortunately, it's not very clean, so you have to be careful. Aaron led, and managed to place gear on… more |
Right V Crack Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Thu, Nov 11 2004 |
5.10a *** | Fun route, and fairly difficult (for me anyway). I led it, and fell once. Dammit. I was so close to getting through the crux. (A lot of people have called this a 10c rather than… more |
Bombay Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Thu, Nov 11 2004 |
5.8 * | Fun. Easy. Good gear. (I used an offset nut.) |
Calcutta Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Thu, Nov 11 2004 |
5.7+ * | A one-move wonder. That one move is awkward, and warrants the 7+. The rest is barely fifth class. |
Double Crack Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Thu, Nov 11 2004 |
5.3 * | Nice easy off-vertical hand crack. |
Toe Jam Express Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Thu, Nov 11 2004 |
5.3 | |
S.O.B. Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Thu, Nov 11 2004 |
5.6 | Two bomber fist-jams at the very beginning make this a 5.6. If you can boulder through that, the rest is fourth class, so you might as well solo the whole thing. |
Donna T's Route Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Thu, Nov 11 2004 |
5.5 | Beautiful hand crack... at least for the first 10 feet. |
Trip to Red Rocks: Friday, November 19th, 2004 through Sunday, November 21st, 2004 | |||
Varnishing Point Pine Creek Canyon Red Rocks |
Fri, Nov 19 2004 |
5.8 **** | This was quite a fun one, albeit totally easy. I led the first (trivial) pitch, then Aaron led the second. We realized later that Aaron left one of my biners at the top, so we had… more |
Topless Twins Pine Creek Canyon Red Rocks |
Fri, Nov 19 2004 |
5.9 **** | This was a fantastic climb. Really awesome. |
Varnishing Point Pine Creek Canyon Red Rocks |
Fri, Nov 19 2004 |
5.8 **** | Climbed this one again, to rescue on of my biners that was left at the top. This time, I led the whole thing in one pitch. |
The Black Orpheus Oak Creek Canyon Red Rocks |
Sat, Nov 20 2004 |
III 5.9+ **** | Really nice, fairly long climb. The lower pitches are just okay, but the excellent upper pitches are well worth it. I got to lead the crux, which is definitely not 5.10a as the… more |
Double Decker Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Dec 4 2004 |
5.6 * | |
Mr. Misty Kiss Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Dec 4 2004 |
5.7 *** | |
Biological Clock Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Dec 4 2004 |
5.9+ * | Definitely fun and deserves a star, but SO not a 5.9, and especially not 9+. This is a one-move wonder, and that one move is really more like 5.7 friction with a bolt right in… more |
Frosty Cone Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Dec 4 2004 |
5.7 *** | Super fun. Nothing but jugs the whole way. Probably my favorite on the wall. |
Scrumdillyishus Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Dec 4 2004 |
5.7 * | Also super fun. Again, nothing but jugs the whole way. Aaron's favorite on the wall. Maybe mine too, especially with the fantastic knee-bar that I found. |
A Hot Fudge Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Dec 4 2004 |
5.9 R * | It's indeterminate whether we did this one right, but I think we did the 5.9 (outside the huge groove, on the face) rather than the 5.10 (which I think goes up just inside the… more |
Walk on the Wild Side Sheep Pass Joshua Tree |
Sat, Dec 4 2004 |
5.7+ **** | This was really fun, and gave me a little more (much needed) practice on J-Tree friction slabs. Actually, few moves were true friction moves, as there were lots of edges (hence the… more |
Trip to Zion: Saturday, December 11th, 2004 through Tuesday, December 14th, 2004 | |||
Moonlight Buttress Angel's Landing Zion |
Sun, Dec 12 2004 |
V 5.9 C2 *** | Our second wall, and the first one on which we spent the night. This was a truly spectacular climb, and it actually made me wish that I could free climb 5.13 finger cracks! |
Trip to Red Rocks: Saturday, January 15th, 2005 through Sunday, January 16th, 2005 | |||
Cat In The Hat Pine Creek Canyon Red Rocks |
Sun, Jan 16 2005 |
5.6 ***** | Trip report coming soon... |
Lean To (left) Geology Tour Road Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 22 2005 |
5.8 | Got a little wide at the top... yuck. |
Lean To (right) Geology Tour Road Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 22 2005 |
5.10 | The right crack was better than the left crack. Very thin, and a little funky at the top, but a good climb. Probably 5.10a, though the book doesn't specify. |
Hoser Geology Tour Road Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 22 2005 |
5.6 | A fun and very easy little solo. |
Georgia O'Keefe Geology Tour Road Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 22 2005 |
5.10b | This was a super fun friction route. I finally got some good practice doing friction climbs, and was able to lead this without falling. |
Perpetual Motion Geology Tour Road Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 22 2005 |
5.10d *** | This was the goal for the day. Aaron led it of course, and he managed to onsight it, which was quite an impressive feat. I flailed quite a bit at the crux, unable to secure good… more |
Orphan Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 22 2005 |
5.9 *** | This was a pretty fun route, but a serious gruntfest at the top, where it got nasty wide. |
The Flake Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 22 2005 |
5.8 ** | This is an awesome route because it includes a little of everything. And of course, true to Joshua Tree style, even though it's a 5.8, it's not trivial. It starts with a chimney… more |
Cranny Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 22 2005 |
5.8 ** | |
Eschar Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 22 2005 |
5.4 * | |
B-3 Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 22 2005 |
5.3 | |
Walkway Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 22 2005 |
5.4 R | |
B-1 Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 22 2005 |
5.1 * | |
The Mikado Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 29 2005 |
5.6 ** | |
La Reina Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 29 2005 |
5.9 ** | This was a pretty cool crack. The crux is at the very bottom. I stopped early on at a tricky stance to place pro, and after a minute my right foot slipped. Minor groundfall... oh… more |
Crown Jewels Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 29 2005 |
5.7 ** | |
Duchess Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 29 2005 |
5.6 ** | This was fun and easy, and probably the longest climb of the day since I went basically all the way to the top of the rock. During this route we also tested using a Cinch for… more |
The Castrum Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 29 2005 |
5.10a * | This was a fun lead for me. The crux was fairly low, and involved very balancy moves with only a tiny finger-lock for one hand. Of course, the only good place for pro was in this… more |
Cool Wind (aka The Rabbi or Red Beckey) Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 29 2005 |
5.10a * | This was fun and tricky. The crux was right at the top. The rest was definitely easier. The pro is pretty good all the way through. |
Gait of Power Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 29 2005 |
5.10b * | This climb is essentially a friction boulder problem with a long easy topout. The crux is a very tricky friction move right off the ground. I took three groundfalls in a row before… more |
We Dive at Dawn Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 29 2005 |
5.8 ** | This was fun, and the crux involved a little bit of awkwardness, if I remember correctly. |
Who's First Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 29 2005 |
5.6 * | This was a really fun little lead. |
Driving Limitations Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 29 2005 |
5.8 ** | I can't really even call this bolted trad, because it wasn't a runout friction slab. It was really just a face climb, and a ridiculously easy one at that. It should be more like… more |
Yei-Bei-Chei Crack The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sat, Feb 26 2005 |
5.9 * | A good, fairly short, not too hard crack, right next to Watanobe Wall, our real goal for the morning. |
Watanobe Wall The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sat, Feb 26 2005 |
5.10a ** | Good crack, with a well-protected crux near the beginning, then much easier after that. |
Double Cross Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sat, Feb 26 2005 |
5.7+ **** | Still an awesome crack... although the awesome part is really just the first fifteen feet or so. And I really don't get why people claim this thing is so hard. It's definitely not… more |
Geronimo Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sat, Feb 26 2005 |
5.7 *** | Aaron led this, then we just pulled the rope through so I could lead it. As a result, I didn't actually have to place my own gear, but so what. This was super fun. Probably the… more |
Heart and Sole Echo Rock Joshua Tree |
Sat, Feb 26 2005 |
5.10a **** | This was a fantastic climb. Aaron led it, but I wouldn't mind going back to lead it myself some time. It was quite a heady lead. I don't think I've ever seen Aaron take so much… more |
Touch and Go Echo Rock Area Joshua Tree |
Sat, Feb 26 2005 |
5.9 **** | Great crack, and not entirely easy. There was a section at the beginning that was awkward and pretty tricky. |
Stichter Quits Echo Rock Joshua Tree |
Sat, Feb 26 2005 |
5.7 *** | Great little friction route, and for a 5.7, it was tricky! Definitely required faith in one's rubber. NOTE: If you rappel this with a 60m rope, it will only get you to about… more |
Looney Toons The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sat, Feb 26 2005 |
5.9 *** | Really fun climb... soft for a 5.9, I thought. There was a mildly difficult section near the beginning, and an offwidth at the top, but otherwise it was easy. The offwidth gave me… more |
Over The Hill Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Mar 6 2005 |
5.9 | We were in this area to do nearby Tossed Green and Right Baskerville Crack, so I was going to warm up on this one. It was kinda crappy, and we were freezing our asses off, so we… more |
Papa Woolsey Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sun, Mar 6 2005 |
5.10b ** | This is a classic friction climb that I've been wanting to do for a while, so I'm glad I finally got a chance to. I fell at the first crux twice before figuring out a good… more |
Buissonier Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sun, Mar 6 2005 |
5.7 ** | Corinne led this, to get some practice leading cracks. She had some trouble with it, and had to hang on gear a few times. Her placements were mostly pretty good, but still not all… more |
Chalk Up Another One Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sun, Mar 6 2005 |
5.10a *** | This was an excellent climb, mostly bolted, but with a little bit of crack at the end. A gray alien was sufficient pro. I almost fell at one point, but caught myself with a wee bit… more |
Pumping Ego Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sun, Mar 6 2005 |
5.10b * | This was also fun, every bit as good as the previous one. Corinne led it well, and showed me up yet again, as I fell at one point while following it. |
Trip to Red Rocks and Zion: Monday, March 28th, 2005 through Friday, April 1st, 2005 | |||
Solar Slab Gully Oak Creek Canyon Red Rocks |
Tue, Mar 29 2005 |
5.3 *** | We were going to do Johnny Vegas to get up to the base of Solar Slab, but of course there were crowds, so we did this instead. We simul-climbed the whole thing all at once. It's… more |
Solar Slab Oak Creek Canyon Red Rocks |
Tue, Mar 29 2005 |
5.6 ***** | This was really fun, and quite easy. We mostly simul-climbed, allowing us to link lots of pitches, so we did all but the last pitch in two pushes. Then Aaron led the last pitch,… more |
Johnny Vegas Oak Creek Canyon Red Rocks |
Wed, Mar 30 2005 |
5.6 R ***** | We were going to do Eagle Dance on this day, but it just didn't happen. After a LONG hike in and an equally long and much more HOT hike out, we decided to cruise up Johnny Vegas.… more |
Spaceshot Leaning Wall Zion |
Fri, Apr 1 2005 |
V 5.6 C1 *** | Spectacular wall, and we finally got one really big, significant route in on our Spring Break. Spec-freaking-tacular. |
Trip to Joshua Tree: Saturday, April 30th, 2005 through Sunday, May 1st, 2005 | |||
Palmreader Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sun, May 1 2005 |
5.8 ** | Great little hand crack, but way too short. |
Scare Way Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sun, May 1 2005 |
5.10b ** | Really a pretty nice climb. The lower part was pretty flaring and slanted significantly to the right, which made it technical (lots of smearing on the face with the right foot)… more |
Flare Play Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sun, May 1 2005 |
5.10b * | This was hard. To me it seemed quite stiff for 10b, although in retrospect, I suppose if I had seen the correct sequence at the crux, it might have been easier. Suffice it to say… more |
Gem Jumbo Rocks Joshua Tree |
Sun, May 8 2005 |
5.8 ** | Awesome hand crack. Truly awesome. This should have three or four stars. Aaron led this, for which I am exceedingly jealous. |
Colorado Crack Jumbo Rocks Joshua Tree |
Sun, May 8 2005 |
5.9 *** | This is the true classic of the area. Will (a.k.a. the Brit) led this, and made fairly short work of it, using almost nothing but nuts. Good man. |
Spiderman Jumbo Rocks Joshua Tree |
Sun, May 8 2005 |
5.10a ** | As usual, after two spectacular cracks, I get stuck with the offwidth. Actually, the first 80% of this was pretty nice, especially the thin part. There were a few parts where the… more |
Winter Wine Jumbo Rocks Joshua Tree |
Sun, May 8 2005 |
5.10c ** | This was a real nice climb. It looked like there would be no pro (or marginal pro) at or before the crux, but Aaron was able to place two bomber nuts in the thin crack, and without… more |
Prepackaged Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, May 8 2005 |
5.10a *** | This was a fine, fine climb. The Brit started leading it, but backed down at the crux, which was near the start. I took over, and finished it up. The crux involves a very thin… more |
Poodles Are People Too Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, May 8 2005 |
5.10b *** | This is one that Aaron and I have been wanting to do for a long time. It was well worth the wait. The first time we had looked at it, it looked runout and scary, but in fact there… more |
Overseer Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, May 8 2005 |
5.9 *** | Also a very nice climb, but probably not quite as high quality as the previous two. The Brit led this one. He had some trouble at the crux headwall, near the top, but he cranked… more |
Trip to Bishop: Friday, May 13th, 2005 through Sunday, May 15th, 2005 | |||
Gorgeous Arête Upper Gorge Owens River Gorge |
Sat, May 14 2005 |
5.10a *** | Pretty nice climb, and fairly easy. I belayed Corinne up this, then I re-led it and she belayed me. Shay toproped it after I led. |
Wacked Scenario Upper Gorge Owens River Gorge |
Sat, May 14 2005 |
5.10b | This was actually a pretty fun crack, albeit fairly wide and (cough) bolted. I can understand why it was bolted, because it wouldn't have taken a single piece smaller than a #3… more |
C'mon Knucko Upper Gorge Owens River Gorge |
Sat, May 14 2005 |
5.11a | This was a pretty nice route, and I made it through the lower technical crux without trouble, but completely flash-pumped before I finished the overhanging sections. |
Flower of High Rank Northeast Buttress Suicide Rock |
Sun, May 29 2005 |
5.9 *** | We finally did this ultra classic, and it was well worth the wait. Only one pitch, but a good one the whole way. |
Johnny Quest Northeast Buttress Suicide Rock |
Sun, May 29 2005 |
5.10b ** | This was an excellent and pretty easy finger crack not far from Flower of High Rank. It was unfortunately short, and I think I'd give it a 10a (or even 5.9) instead of 10b. True,… more |
Flakes of Wrath Northeast Buttress Suicide Rock |
Sun, May 29 2005 |
5.10c R ** | I don't know what the hell I was thinking leading this, but in retrospect I'm really glad I did. This was definitely the hardest trad lead I've done, and although I didn't redpoint… more |
Johnny Quest Northeast Buttress Suicide Rock |
Sun, May 29 2005 |
5.10b ** | When I pulled the rope after rapping off of Flakes of Wrath, it got stuck, so we decided to re-climb this sweet piece of rock to clear the snag. This time I led, since I knew it… more |
Peer Pressure North Face Suicide Rock |
Sun, May 29 2005 |
5.10a * | This was a fun little slab. Short, and not too tough. Aaron led it first; he fell once, but otherwise didn't have much trouble. Then we pulled the rope and I led, finishing it… more |
Serpentine Weeping Wall Suicide Rock |
Sun, May 29 2005 |
5.9 *** | This was an excellent multipitch slab climb. Definitely a “traditional” bolted climb, as it was pretty run out, and you could tell it was bolted on lead. (The bolts were not placed… more |
Super Pooper West Face Bulge Tahquitz |
Mon, May 30 2005 |
5.10a *** | This was an excellent climb. Aaron and I have been wanting to do this one for a long time, so it's too bad I couldn't do it with him, but I'm glad I finally got to do it. I'll go… more |
Mechanic's Route South Face Tahquitz |
Mon, May 30 2005 |
5.8 R *** | This was a really fun route. The Brit led the first pitch, which started out the same as the first pitch of Open Book, then traversed right into a different crack system and went… more |
Mechanic's Route South Face Tahquitz |
Sat, Jun 4 2005 |
5.8 R *** | This time I led the first pitch, and Aaron led the second. He went all the way to the chains without running out of rope, so it is quite possible to do this in two pitches with no… more |
Left Ski Track/The Chauvinist South Face Tahquitz |
Sat, Jun 4 2005 |
5.8 *** | Aaron led the first pitch of Left Ski Track, with its “unbelievably good jugs”, then due to slow crowds, we finished with the second pitch of The Chauvinist. The first pitch was… more |
Coffin Nail West Face Tahquitz |
Sat, Jun 4 2005 |
5.8 * | This was an incredibly fun route, I thought. I would give it more than one star, personally. I also don't think it was 5.8, but then again, I think all the 5.8 stuff at Tahquitz is… more |
The Long Climb (Wong Climb start) Northwest Recess Tahquitz |
Sat, Jul 2 2005 |
5.8 ** | This was Pouya's first trad climb, and I felt like repeating this old classic that I'd only done once. I thoroughly enjoyed it the second time around, and it was nice to get to… more |
Angel's Fright West Face Tahquitz |
Sun, Jul 17 2005 |
5.6 ** | This was a pretty fun climb, and I think Laura enjoyed it. It doesn't have any stellar or classic crack or slab climbing, but it is pretty nice overall, and the route-finding was… more |
Left Ski Track South Face Tahquitz |
Sun, Jul 17 2005 |
5.6 *** | This route lived up to its reputation as a spectacular climb. I had done the first pitch before with Aaron, but I hadn't led it. So I got to enjoy the “unbelievably good jugs” on… more |
Scream Dream Stream Wall Williamson |
Wed, Aug 10 2005 |
5.10a *** | Aaron and I spent the day doing some sport climbing at Williamson, due to a forecast of more thunderstorms at Tahquitz. There was actually a forecast of possible thunderstorms near… more |
Silvery Scream Stream Wall Williamson |
Wed, Aug 10 2005 |
5.10b *** | Working our way right on the wall, we did this one next. I led, then Aaron led. If I remember correctly, I actually had to take on this one near the beginning, just because I… more |
Created a Monster Stream Wall Williamson |
Wed, Aug 10 2005 |
5.10a/b ** | Again working our way to the right. This was a really fun one. |
Whose Line is it Anyway? Stream Wall Williamson |
Wed, Aug 10 2005 |
5.10d | This was a pretty fun route, and longer than the previous ones. It had a little roof to get around near the top, and I actually hung once there because I couldn't find the best… more |
Dream Speed London Wall Williamson |
Wed, Aug 10 2005 |
5.11a ***** | I onsighted this! This was only the second 5.11 sport climb that I've ever tried, and it was pretty long as sport climbs go, and I onsighted it! I was very excited. It was a good… more |
Created a Monster Stream Wall Williamson |
Wed, Aug 10 2005 |
5.10a/b ** | Aaron led this a second time, then I led it again, then he led it a third time, just for the workout. |
The Step West Face Bulge Tahquitz |
Tue, Aug 16 2005 |
5.10a ** | The ominous route on which two people died about two years ago. This really wasn't too tough, although because there has been some rockfall at the crux in the last few years, it… more |
The Chauvinist/Left Ski Track South Face Tahquitz |
Tue, Aug 16 2005 |
5.8 *** | Having already done the first pitch of Left Ski Track and the second pitch of The Chauvinist, we decided to do the opposite, so that we have now climbed all of both routes (I had… more |
Super Pooper West Face Bulge Tahquitz |
Sun, Aug 28 2005 |
5.10a *** | Aaron led the first and last pitches of this, since I had already led them. They felt easier this time, maybe because I had done them before, or maybe because I was just following.… more |
Right Ski Track South Face Tahquitz |
Sun, Aug 28 2005 |
5.9 ** | This was every bit as spectacular as its neighbor, Left Ski Track. Rather than setting up a natural anchor for a hanging belay in the middle of the nice long crack, I linked the… more |
Trip to Yosemite: Sunday, September 4th, 2005 through Saturday, September 10th, 2005 | |||
The Nose El Capitan Yosemite Valley |
Wed, Sep 7 2005 |
VI 5.10 C2 ***** | Climbed on Sept 7, 8, and 9 (after fixing pitches 1-5 on Sept 5). Check out Aaron's trip report and all of our photos. My trip report is posted here, as usual, but it's not a… more |
The Chauvinist South Face Tahquitz |
Sun, Oct 2 2005 |
5.8 ** | This was fun once again, and it was Shanjean's first real trad climbing experience, and her first time climbing a fairly difficult crack, I think. She handled it quite well. I… more |
Coffin Nail/Traitor Horn West Face Tahquitz |
Sun, Oct 2 2005 |
5.8 ** | This may very well be the best 5.8 at Tahquitz, and it's not in the guidebook. Figuring out this link-up is trivial, but I never thought of it until my friend Nathaniel mentioned… more |
Trip to Red Rocks: Friday, October 7th, 2005 through Sunday, October 9th, 2005 | |||
Fiddler on the Roof (Had to bail...) Black Velvet Canyon Red Rocks |
Sat, Oct 8 2005 |
5.10+ PG **** | We had to bail from this after Hobbs couldn't do the traverse on the third pitch. He got a little off route, and apparently it seemed harder than the 5.10- that it was supposed to… more |
Yellow Brick Road (First 2 pitches only) Black Velvet Canyon Red Rocks |
Sat, Oct 8 2005 |
5.8+ ***** | After bailing off Fiddler on the Roof, we decided to round out the day by just climbing a few pitches of Yellow Brick Road. After two pitches, we both agreed that we were exhausted… more |
Frogland Black Velvet Canyon Red Rocks |
Sun, Oct 9 2005 |
5.8- ***** | This was fun, but there were two parties above us, so the climb was a traffic jam the whole way up. The climb itself was of excellent quality, though, and for once we would have… more |
No Self Respect Wonderland of Rocks Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 15 2005 |
5.10c *** | Flaring, sharp, unpleasant, and horribly wide in a few places. I have no idea why this has three stars in the guidebook, nor why Todd Gordon calls this a “Yosemite hand slammer”,… more |
No Self Confidence Wonderland of Rocks Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 15 2005 |
5.10b ** | This climb was much more pleasant than the one next to it. This one was actually a really nice hand crack most of the way, but steep, so it wasn't totally easy. There was a small… more |
The Old Man Down the Road/New Hampshire, Naturally Wonderland of Rocks Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 15 2005 |
5.10b | These are two parallel cracks that are about two feet apart at the base, but get a little bit farther apart as they go up. The left one, “New Hampshire, Naturally”, is a 10b, and… more |
Such a Poodle Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 22 2005 |
5.8+ | This was easy, except for a one-move slab crux. I fell, here, but actually managed to catch myself, then I realized I was supposed to go further left to get around the tricky spot. |
The Importance of Being Ernest Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 22 2005 |
5.10c PG-13 *** | The rap anchors we used were right at the top of this climb, and we wanted to try it, but knew it was hard and had sketchy pro, so after taking a look at the route on our rappel,… more |
Spoodle Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 22 2005 |
5.9 * | This was a fun one. |
Poodles Are People Too Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 22 2005 |
5.10b *** | So good! I'm glad I got to lead it this time. I wish they made a tricam smaller than the pink one... it would have come in so handy right before the second crux. |
Head Over Heels Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 22 2005 |
5.10a *** | This is one of the coolest routes ever. We did the super fun variation to the roof, namely, we both hung underneath it and heel-hooked until we could pull around the lip. Probably… more |
A Farewell to Poodles Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 22 2005 |
5.9 | Nice climb. First part is slightly tricky, but then it's just easy splitter hand crack for the rest. |
The Old Man and the Poodle Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 22 2005 |
5.8 | Pretty nice. The guidebook shows a traverse in from the left, but I actually was able to do a direct start that was no harder. Furthermore, there's pro directly below the route in… more |
Space Walk Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 22 2005 |
5.8 * | The start of this sucked badly (really really badly, like breaking off a giant chunk of rock from 20 feet up badly) but once I got into the actual crack, it was quite cool. A very… more |
For Whom the Poodle Tolls Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 22 2005 |
5.9 * | This was the final Hemingway-named poodle route, and it was just as good as the other routes in this area. Just like the other 5.9 next to it, it had a slightly tricky start,… more |
Walkway Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 22 2005 |
5.4 R | |
Karpkwitz Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 22 2005 |
5.6 | |
B-2 Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 22 2005 |
5.3 * | |
B-1 Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 22 2005 |
5.1 * | |
Double Cross Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sat, Nov 5 2005 |
5.7+ **** | I went to J-Tree today with a bunch of friends from the UCLA Rock Wall, since Aaron was out of town for the weekend. Most of them just went to boulder or hike, or just relax, but… more |
Trip to Joshua Tree: Saturday, November 19th, 2005 through Sunday, November 20th, 2005 | |||
Scrumdillyishus Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Nov 19 2005 |
5.7 * | Just as good as I remember it being. John had no trouble following this, although he did have trouble removing an alien until he remembered to pull the trigger instead of pushing… more |
Frosty Cone Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Nov 19 2005 |
5.7 *** | Fun fun fun. If I remember correctly, Steven didn't have trouble with this one, but he was shocked to find blood on the rock. Oh the horror! |
Mr. Misty Kiss Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Nov 19 2005 |
5.7 *** | As excellent as before, and it gave Steven (and Danielle and I think also John) a good bit of trouble at one or two places. |
Walkway Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sat, Nov 19 2005 |
5.4 R | I didn't feel like soloing everything in sight (especially with our newbie friends and a bunch of other newbie strangers watching), but I just had to run up this one-move-wonder… more |
Butterfly Crack (Didn't get it this time...) Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sat, Nov 19 2005 |
5.11c *** | I had been fantasizing about this thing since we'd first looked at it a month ago, and I really wanted to try leading it. We worked on a few moves at the start (the crux), and I… more |
Practice Rehearsal Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 20 2005 |
5.7 | Pretty nice, and easy. Gave our friends a wee little bit of crack experience. |
The Irritators Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 20 2005 |
5.7/8 PG | A very talkative guy we met up with at Playhouse Rock claimed this was a 5.9 top-rope that would be too runout at the top to lead. I top-roped it, and found the last part slightly… more |
Final Act Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 20 2005 |
5.4 | I found this easy and fun, but it gave everyone difficulty just because it was a crack. Before we did it, the talkative guy commented that it was “5.4, but tricky!” Maybe this… more |
The Playwright Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 20 2005 |
5.6 | I ran up this, and Aaron quickly followed, just because it was a crack that looked like it had some potential to be good. Oh well. I guess to get our crack fix for the day, we'd… more |
Butterfly Crack Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 20 2005 |
5.11c *** | I F***ING REDPOINTED THIS! Pardon my french, but damn, that felt awesome. I've had my eye on this climb ever since I first looked at it a month ago, and worked out some of the… more |
Silent Scream Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 4 2005 |
5.10a *** | A fun route, but crowded... and crowded with sport climbers. |
Poppa Spider Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 4 2005 |
5.9 * | Kinda fun, but quite short, and the rock quality here was not the greatest. |
Momma Spider Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 4 2005 |
5.9 | Interesting and a bit tricky for about one or two moves. |
Direct South Face Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 4 2005 |
5.9 *** | Excellent, though the best part is definitely the roof. Other than that and a single balancy move at the very beginning of the last “pitch”, most of the climb is fairly easy, but… more |
Third Time's a Charm Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 4 2005 |
5.10b *** | This was awesome, and I was quite glad I got to lead it. It looked like the crux was going to be a wee bit runout, but it actually protected quite well. The crux is the short… more |
Lucky Charms Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 4 2005 |
5.7 * | 5.7 my ass. More like two moves of 5.5 followed by lots of 4th class and 5.easy. Okay, actually we did this slightly wrong. This climb and Third Time's a Charm cross each other, so… more |
The Swift Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Tue, Dec 13 2005 |
5.7 ** | This was pretty fun and easy. The “improbable move right” was not too improbable, and was heavily chalked. |
Bird on a Wire Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Tue, Dec 13 2005 |
5.10a *** | This was excellent. I led the first pitch, and unfortunately for Aaron I ran it almost to the top, leaving him with only a 30-foot easy pitch. I also protected the climb almost… more |
Dappled Mare/Roan Way Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Tue, Dec 13 2005 |
5.8 ** | I led the first pitch of Dappled Mare, then Aaron did Roan Way instead of the usual finish, since he had done Dappled Mare before. Both pitches were nice. The second was a full 200… more |
Right Lizard Crack Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Tue, Dec 13 2005 |
5.9 * | This was fun, and a bit tricky, but quite short. |
Left Lizard Crack Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Tue, Dec 13 2005 |
5.10d R * | This was super fun, with a very short crux. And I highly disagree with the R. The crux protected well with nuts, and probably would have taken cams as well. The upper part was… more |
Chicken Lizard Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Tue, Dec 13 2005 |
5.10b * | This seemed like the hardest climb of the day, because it was pretty sustained. And this one deserved the R, not Left Lizard Crack. It protected decently well, but the hardest… more |
Rock-A-Lot Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Jan 29 2006 |
5.7 * | A good easy start to the day. |
Young Lust Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Jan 29 2006 |
5.9 *** | Really nice climb, but a bit soft. |
Euthyphro Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Jan 29 2006 |
5.9 * | Really nice climb, but a bit soft. |
Spitwad Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Jan 29 2006 |
5.10a ** | Excellent climb, but also a bit soft for 10a. More like 5.9. |
Lewd and Lascivious Conduct Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Jan 29 2006 |
5.10c R * | Fun, and not too hard for 10c, but I don't think I'd want to lead it. I climbed it first, then belayed Aaron up. Neither of us fell, but still, there's a long section in the middle… more |
Smithereens Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Jan 29 2006 |
5.9 *** | Very nice climb. |
Split Personality Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Jan 29 2006 |
5.9 *** | Good one, and it felt harder than all the 9's and the 10a on the left side of the wall. The upper part is an excellent thin crack. At the top of this, while belaying Aaron up, a… more |
Rock Candy Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Jan 29 2006 |
5.9 *** | Fun, and definitely more solid for the grade than the stuff to the left. While Aaron was leading, the peregrine falcon I'd seen at the top of Split Personality flew by again, but… more |
Double Dogleg Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Jan 29 2006 |
5.7 *** | Fun and easy... but maybe harder than the 5.8 further to the right! At the top of this climb, the peregrine falcon I'd seen on the previous two routes flew by again, this time even… more |
Beck's Bet Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Jan 29 2006 |
5.8 * | Very easy. Aaron on-sight free soloed this without even meaning to. He just ran up it without feeling any need to place gear. |
Uncle Fester Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Jan 29 2006 |
5.10d * | I onsighted this! This was probably my hardest onsight yet, so I was quite proud. It's an outstanding, clean, super-thin crack, and the crux is very short: about two or three moves… more |
Walkway Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Jan 29 2006 |
5.4 R | |
B-1 Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Jan 29 2006 |
5.1 * | |
Eschar Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Jan 29 2006 |
5.4 * | |
B-2 Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Jan 29 2006 |
5.3 * | |
B-3 Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Jan 29 2006 |
5.3 | |
North Overhang Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sun, Feb 12 2006 |
5.9 *** | We warmed up on this one. Aaron took the first easy pitch, and I took the second. Quite embarassingly, I fell at the crux of this. Especially weird considering that I've followed… more |
Lower/Upper Right Ski Track Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sun, Feb 12 2006 |
5.10b *** | This was a pretty cool climb. The crux protects pretty well, but you have to really decide whether you can fight the pump long enough to place gear. Aaron found it easier to just… more |
Left Ski Track Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sun, Feb 12 2006 |
5.11a *** | I flashed this! Too bad I was following, but still, I was pretty psyched about it. Aaron had to hang a few times, but this was at least partly because he was worried about the… more |
Half Track Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sun, Feb 12 2006 |
5.10a * | This was a great little route, and pretty tricky. The start is nearly impossible to protect, and is probably the crux, with delicate friction moves and a few tiny crimps. The seam… more |
Equinox (Just worked on it...) Geology Tour Road Joshua Tree |
Sun, Feb 12 2006 |
5.12c ***** | This was freakin' hard man! We just went up to toprope this thing and see how bad it really was. And yeah, it was as bad as we expected. We had to wait in line a little bit, so we… more |
Keep the Ball Rolling The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sat, Mar 4 2006 |
5.9 | Fun and pretty easy. Looked like it had some loose stuff, but it was mostly pretty solid. |
Rollerball The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sat, Mar 4 2006 |
5.10b **** | Sweet climb. The roof was a bit pumpy, but the jams were just unbelievably good. Aaron onsighted this. I unfortunately fell at the lower technical crux, mostly due to carelessness.… more |
Roller Coaster The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sat, Mar 4 2006 |
5.11c | Deserves a star... or four or five. Really awesome for a sport climb. I originally tried leading this, and got most of the way through the lower crux before falling the first time.… more |
Illusion Dweller Real Hidden Valley Joshua Tree |
Sat, Mar 4 2006 |
5.10b ***** | AKA The Kandy-Kolored Tangerine-Flake Streamline Baby. I finally got to climb this classic, and after all the hype from various friends of mine, I was really glad I onsighted it.… more |
Clean and Jerk Real Hidden Valley Joshua Tree |
Sat, Mar 4 2006 |
5.10c **** | I freakin' flashed this! Once again, though, I was following, and in this case, that made a huge difference. With Left Ski Track, which we did the last time we were here, I felt… more |
Trip to Red Rocks: Wednesday, March 22nd, 2006 through Tuesday, March 28th, 2006 | |||
Geronimo Juniper Canyon Red Rocks |
Thu, Mar 23 2006 |
5.6 **** | This was fun, but quite a traffic jam. When we reached the base, there were three other parties (one a party of three) ahead of us, and one more couple showed up just behind us.… more |
Refried Brains Black Velvet Canyon Red Rocks |
Fri, Mar 24 2006 |
5.9 **** | This was an excellent route. Aaron led pitches 1 and 3, and I led 2 and 4. Aaron absolutely loved pitch 3. Also, note that it really didn't require any wide gear or offwidth… more |
Overhanging Hangover (Rock was wet) Black Velvet Canyon Red Rocks |
Fri, Mar 24 2006 |
5.10a **** | After Refried Brains, we still had plenty of time left in the day, so we roped up to do this short one, a climb we'd been wanting to do ever since we rappelled over this giant roof… more |
Wholesome Fullback Black Velvet Canyon Red Rocks |
Sat, Mar 25 2006 |
5.10a ***** | Sweet sweet sweet! I led the first pitch of this, and even though it's only 5.10a, I might consider it one of my prouder onsights. This didn't feel like typical Red Rocks “soft”… more |
Our Father (Last pitch only) Black Velvet Canyon Red Rocks |
Sat, Mar 25 2006 |
5.10d *** | OH MY GOD THIS WAS GOOD! This might have been the single best pitch of crack climbing I've ever done anywhere. (Of course, I haven't been to Indian Creek yet....) We just top-roped… more |
Sand Felipe Black Velvet Canyon Red Rocks |
Sat, Mar 25 2006 |
5.10a *** | This was fun and fairly easy. There were holds everywhere. The biggest difficulty with it was being careful to grab ones that didn't look too fragile. The bolts are WAY too close… more |
Frogland Black Velvet Canyon Red Rocks |
Sat, Mar 25 2006 |
5.8- ***** | Another traffic jam... this time cold and windy, and we didn't get down until after dark. |
Prince of Darkness Black Velvet Canyon Red Rocks |
Mon, Mar 27 2006 |
5.10c ***** | We've been wanting to climb this ever since our first trip to Red Rocks together, over two years ago. Every time we were going to do it, something came up. Finally, we got to… more |
Overhanging Hangover Black Velvet Canyon Red Rocks |
Mon, Mar 27 2006 |
5.10a **** | This climb, though short, is another one that we have been wanting to do for quite a while. Basically, ever since we rapped off of Sour Mash two years ago and saw a few bolts… more |
Ace of Spades Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Apr 30 2006 |
5.9 *** | Nice hand crack. I started up the dihedral and delayed the decision of which of the two beautiful three-star 5.9 hand cracks to choose. When I reached the point where they… more |
Popular Mechanics Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Apr 30 2006 |
5.9 *** | Aaron led the right hand crack, up the main dihedral. Also really nice. |
Digital Watch Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Apr 30 2006 |
5.10d ** | I led this, and unfortunately hang-dogged it quite a bit before I figured out that the best approach was to layback it. It was tricky, but not too bad, and it protected quite well. |
Jack of Hearts Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Apr 30 2006 |
5.9 * | This started out as a really really nice hand crack. I think it loses a star or two at the end, but it's not really bad or anything. However, Aaron got the rope pinched in the… more |
Tossed Green Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Apr 30 2006 |
5.10a *** | This was an excellent thin crack, and one I'd wanted to do for a long time. |
An Eye to the West Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Apr 30 2006 |
5.9 * | This was the decent looking 5.9 hand crack to the left of Tossed Green. It was pretty nice, but probably nothing to write home about. After this climb, as we were walking around to… more |
Right Baskerville Crack Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Apr 30 2006 |
5.10a *** | An excellent, short, tricky climb. The crux was really one fairly pumpy move, essentially doing a pullup on a large crimp, and desperately reaching for a finger-lock. The move was… more |
Walkway Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Apr 30 2006 |
5.4 R | |
Eschar Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Apr 30 2006 |
5.4 * | |
B-1 Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Apr 30 2006 |
5.1 * | |
B-2 Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Apr 30 2006 |
5.3 * | |
Walkway/B-1 Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Apr 30 2006 |
5.4 R | Maybe a new favorite free solo here? Go up Walkway until it turns into a ledge that goes up and right. Instead of following this ledge, traverse directly left on good holds to join… more |
Simpatico Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Apr 30 2006 |
5.1 | Definitely deserves every one of its ZERO stars. |
Trip to Yosemite: Thursday, May 11th, 2006 through Sunday, May 14th, 2006 | |||
Lost Arrow Spire Tip Upper Yosemite Falls Area Yosemite Valley |
Fri, May 12 2006 |
5.7 C2 ***** | Awesome!!! Trip report coming soon. |
Commitment Lower Yosemite Falls Area Yosemite Valley |
Sat, May 13 2006 |
5.9 **** | This was an excellent three-pitch route. The first pitch took a splitter 5.8 hand crack to a nice stance. The second pitch, which Shanjean led, went straight up the inside corner… more |
Selaginella (Bailed, partner bonked) Lower Yosemite Falls Area Yosemite Valley |
Sat, May 13 2006 |
5.8 *** | The first pitch of this climb was pretty nice (once we found the correct start), but by the time she reached the end of it, Shanjean seemed to be bonking pretty hard. We bailed. |
Bushwhack Crack/The Hook Gate Buttress Little Cottonwood Canyon |
Sat, Jun 3 2006 |
5.8 *** | This was a really nice climb. The first pitch took the splitter hand crack pictured here up to a belay at a tree. The second pitch traversed left on fairly easy but slightly… more |
Schoolroom Direct/Movie Variation Gate Buttress Little Cottonwood Canyon |
Sat, Jun 3 2006 |
5.8 *** | This was another excellent route. Schoolroom direct followed a beautiful 5.7 finger crack to join up with the original Schoolroom route (5.6). We then did two pitches of that… more |
The Green Adjective Perhaps Area Little Cottonwood Canyon |
Sat, Jun 3 2006 |
5.10a **** | Sweet sexy crack. This climb reminded me a lot of Poodles Are People Too at Joshua Tree, in that it required delicate moves and protected with lots of small nuts. (I placed… more |
Gordon's Hangover Perhaps Area Little Cottonwood Canyon |
Sat, Jun 3 2006 |
5.9+ **** | This was an outstanding route (the fourth in a day full of outstanding routes!) Apparently it's usually done as a single long pitch, but I decided to break it up into two. (I think… more |
Pentapitch/Sasquatch Pentapitch Area Little Cottonwood Canyon |
Thu, Jun 8 2006 |
5.9 **** | This was yet another excellent climb on excellent granite. Bobby led the first pitch of Pentapitch to bring us up to Sasquatch, which I then led. It followed a crack that started… more |
Fingertrip West Face Tahquitz |
Wed, Jun 21 2006 |
5.7 *** | This was a fun day. I led each pitch with my new double ropes, and Steven and John followed. I belayed them up using the autoblock feature of my new ATC Guide, so that they could… more |
The Consolation Northwest Recess Tahquitz |
Wed, Aug 2 2006 |
5.9 * | This route, right next to Whodunit, was pretty fun and high quality, but it certainly didn't seem as good to me as Whodunit. |
Dave's Deviation (First pitch only) West Face Tahquitz |
Wed, Aug 2 2006 |
5.9 ** | This was an awesome pitch! One of the best finger cracks I've ever climbed, hands down. |
The Jam Crack/The Trough West Face Tahquitz |
Wed, Aug 2 2006 |
5.8 * | This was fun, but in retrospect, I wish we had studied the guidebook more and tried one of the better (and harder) variations for the last pitch. We just went up the Trough without… more |
Royal Arches Royal Arches Area Yosemite Valley |
Sat, Oct 14 2006 |
5.7 C0 ***** | We've been wanting to do this one for a long time. It was a lot of fun, albeit very easy. Of course, we simul-climbed extensively, so we did the whole thing in just four pitches,… more |
Trip to Joshua Tree: Friday, November 24th, 2006 through Sunday, November 26th, 2006 | |||
S.O.B. Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sat, Nov 25 2006 |
5.6 | This trip was to give my noob friends a little more trad and crack experience, and maybe even let them lead something super easy. Basically, most of the weekend was “Will's… more |
Right N Up Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sat, Nov 25 2006 |
5.8 X | I accidentally free soloed this. Honest. I just saw this really nice looking finger crack, so I decided to do a move or two. Once I was off the ground, I just sort of kept going. |
Donna T's Route Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sat, Nov 25 2006 |
5.5 | A second easy crack for the crack workshop. |
Court Jester Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sat, Nov 25 2006 |
5.7 | A third easy crack, and a much longer one. I ended up having to belay one person at a time from the top, and lower each one individually. |
Tom's Solo Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 26 2006 |
5.7 | This was fun, albeit a bit dirty. It was also a tad pumpy for a 5.7, so my friends all struggled a bit. Erica was also a bit hungover. |
Silent Scream Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 26 2006 |
5.10a *** | Ironically, just as Aaron had unexpectedly done the first time we climbed this route, I took a lead fall on this. Especially odd since I had followed it clean the first time. I… more |
Who's First Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 26 2006 |
5.6 * | Fun and easy, just as before. |
Double Crack Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 26 2006 |
5.3 * | I led this, then set up a top-rope and a fixed line next to it. Erica, Danielle, and Steven each took a turn “mock leading” it, with someone belaying them on the top-rope, but… more |
Trip to Joshua Tree: Saturday, December 9th, 2006 through Sunday, December 10th, 2006 | |||
Sail Away Real Hidden Valley Joshua Tree |
Sat, Dec 9 2006 |
5.8- **** | I hadn't done these since my first trip to Joshua Tree over three years ago, so I decided they would be a fun way to end the day. Brian led this one. |
Wild Wind Real Hidden Valley Joshua Tree |
Sat, Dec 9 2006 |
5.9 ** | We just barely got up this one before dark. John made it up with basically no real difficulty, which was good. |
Stichter Quits Echo Rock Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 10 2006 |
5.7 *** | Brian led this one. Easy and fun. |
Double Dip Echo Rock Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 10 2006 |
5.6 ** | Fun, and about as easy as a Joshua Tree slab gets (i.e. still not trivial). |
Heart and Sole Echo Rock Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 10 2006 |
5.10a **** | I really wanted to lead this, as I remember how heady it was when Aaron led it. This really is an awesome route, both as a slab and as a crack. |
Pope's Crack Echo Rock Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 10 2006 |
5.9 *** | Brian led this. Quite a nice crack. |
Walkway/B-1 Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 10 2006 |
5.4 R | |
B-2 Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 10 2006 |
5.3 * | |
Annointed Seagull Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 17 2006 |
5.8 | This was a cold December day! I thought we would find morning sun at Atlantis Wall, but we had no such luck. After one climb, we left the area to seek sun and warmth elsewhere. |
The Flake Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 17 2006 |
5.8 ** | It was still freezing here, even though this faced what little sun was in the sky. I wanted to do this excellent route to give Jackie and the rest of the gang a taste of ALL that… more |
Karpkwitz Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 17 2006 |
5.6 | Will really wanted to lead something with his shiney new set of nuts, so I figured this would be a good choice. I followed first and checked out his gear placements, which were… more |
B-3 Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 17 2006 |
5.3 | |
Walkway/B-1 Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 17 2006 |
5.4 R | After I climbed this, as we were standing around at the base of Trashcan, getting our stuff together in the dark, an owl swooped down over the rock right above our heads! Very… more |
Trip to Joshua Tree: Friday, February 2nd, 2007 through Sunday, February 4th, 2007 | |||
Damper Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Fri, Feb 2 2007 |
5.9 ** | I never thought I would really enjoy a fist crack, but this thing was pretty sweet! Really locker fist jams! Getting down from the top in the dark was almost an epic though. |
Pete's Handful Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sat, Feb 3 2007 |
5.10a ** | Nathaniel led this. It was fairly short, but pretty damn pumpy for a 10a. |
Mama Woolsey Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sat, Feb 3 2007 |
5.10a R * | This was pretty fun, and really felt soft for a J-Tree 10a slab. I'd definitely consider leading it. |
Chicken Mechanics Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Feb 3 2007 |
5.9 * | This was super fun, and I'm glad I got to lead it. |
Pacific Ave. Dorm Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Feb 3 2007 |
5.7 * | Softest 5.7 in the park, hands down. Deserves a star for its nice big jugs. (Mmmmmm... nice big soft jugs....) |
Poultry Pilots Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Feb 3 2007 |
5.7 | Aaron led this. |
Blackheart Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Feb 3 2007 |
5.10b * | This was devious! At one point I just stood there for a minute or two trying to figure out what the hell to do next. It ended up being a pretty cool move, not too terribly… more |
Hands Off Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sun, Feb 4 2007 |
5.8 *** | Very nice finger crack! Danielle had little difficulty with it. Indy also enjoyed hanging out at the base of the route! |
Mike's Books Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sun, Feb 4 2007 |
5.8 ** | After having a very lazy climbing day, because we were all just really tired, we decided to finish up on this. Aaron led both pitches, and Danielle followed with little difficulty. |
Trip to Joshua Tree: Saturday, March 3rd, 2007 through Sunday, March 4th, 2007 | |||
South Buttress (First ~30 feet) Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sat, Mar 3 2007 |
5.7 * | When Danielle and I arrived at Erica's campsite, she had set up a top-rope on the initial 30-foot section of this route, and she and her friends were taking turns top-roping it.… more |
Flare Play Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sat, Mar 3 2007 |
5.10b ** | Erica's boyfriend Dave and his friend Kyle had set up a top-rope on this, so I took a lap up it. I had led it about two years earlier and fell a couple of times at one point… more |
Palmreader Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sun, Mar 4 2007 |
5.8 ** | I of course wanted to do some crack, and we were camped a stone's throw from the world's shortest perfect splitter hand-crack. So as soon as we were all up and about, I got some… more |
Plain But Good Hearted Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sun, Mar 4 2007 |
5.6 * | After Palmreader, we were looking for something easy to set up a top-rope on for a few of Erica's friends who had never climbed before. This was a fun and easy route, but I again… more |
Main Face (a.k.a. Call of the West) Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sun, Mar 4 2007 |
5.9 ** | This was fun, and gave me a chance to do something at least a little challenging. Danielle followed, but got stuck at the final right-slanting crack (which was a bit tricky), and… more |
Trip to Indian Creek and Moab: Sunday, March 25th, 2007 through Sunday, April 1st, 2007 | |||
Unnamed 5.9+ Blue Gramma Cliff Indian Creek |
Mon, Mar 26 2007 |
5.9+ *** | Awesome, fun, easy, and unfortunately short. |
Dawn of an Age Blue Gramma Cliff Indian Creek |
Mon, Mar 26 2007 |
5.10 *** | I fell twice on this. I think it was mostly because my head wasn't in it. I forgot to pu ton my helmet, and when I realized that, I was a little sketched. |
Unnamed 5.10 Blue Gramma Cliff Indian Creek |
Mon, Mar 26 2007 |
5.10 **** | This was spectacular. It completely pumped me out, but I got up it with no falls. |
Petrelli Motors Blue Gramma Cliff Indian Creek |
Mon, Mar 26 2007 |
5.10 *** | Nathaniel led, and fell once at the crux. I followed with no difficulty. Afterwards, we watched a guy take a pretty big whipper, shirtless, helmetless, and upside-down! Scary. |
Chocolate Corner Donnelly Canyon Indian Creek |
Mon, Mar 26 2007 |
5.9 *** | This was really fun. A bit tricky since the hands were pretty thin, but not too hard. |
Binou's Crack Donnelly Canyon Indian Creek |
Mon, Mar 26 2007 |
5.9 *** | Though not as aesthetic as the previous climbs, this turned out to be an excellent crack. And though the really wide section at the top looked nasty, it turned out to be easy and… more |
Twin Cracks Supercrack Buttress Indian Creek |
Tue, Mar 27 2007 |
5.9 ** | This was pretty fun and easy. Nathaniel led. |
Stolen Chimney (Bailed due to weather) Ancient Art Fisher Towers |
Tue, Mar 27 2007 |
5.10 **** | We got up to the ledge at the top of the chimney, stuck behind two other parties. We were a little worried at first about time, but then the wind kicked up and we saw the rain in… more |
Bad Moki Roof Potash Road Moab Area |
Wed, Mar 28 2007 |
5.9 *** | Nathaniel led this up into the roof, but couldn't pull through it. I lowered him and took over leading. I fell the first time I tried pulling the roof, but caught myself on a hand… more |
Flakes of Wrath Potash Road Moab Area |
Wed, Mar 28 2007 |
5.9 **** | This was super sweet and fun. |
Unnamed? Potash Road Moab Area |
Wed, Mar 28 2007 |
5.11? | After leading Flakes of Wrath, we top-roped the crack next to it, which started with a beautiful and easy slightly overhanging hand crack, followed by some thinner liebacking.… more |
Unnamed 5.9 Supercrack Buttress Indian Creek |
Thu, Mar 29 2007 |
5.9 ** | It snowed most of the night and well into the morning. This really sucked, considering how far we had come to climb the splitter cracks of Indian Creek. Though I was somewhat… more |
Amaretto Corner Supercrack Buttress Indian Creek |
Thu, Mar 29 2007 |
5.9 *** | This was an excellent climb. It started out hands, but gradually got wider and wider. I walked a single #4 Camalot up about twenty feet as I went. At the top, I pulled a quick and… more |
Generic Crack Donnelly Canyon Indian Creek |
Fri, Mar 30 2007 |
5.10 ***** | Freaking spectacular. Oh my God. So sweet. So good. I led first, and Nathaniel followed, then I stayed at the top and took pictures as Brian led. |
3AM Crack Supercrack Buttress Indian Creek |
Fri, Mar 30 2007 |
5.10 *** | This was pretty sweet, but pumpy as hell, and got just a little wide in several spots. Brian led first, then Nathaniel followed, then Brian took pictures from the top as I led. As… more |
Kor-Ingalls Route Castleton Tower Castle Valley |
Sat, Mar 31 2007 |
5.9+ **** | Amazingly, despite my sprained knee from the day before, I was able to do the approach to this climb, then follow the whole route, with no issues. Apparently the sprain was pretty… more |
North Chimney Castleton Tower Castle Valley |
Sat, Mar 31 2007 |
5.8 **** | This was also an excellent route, but did require a little more use of my bad knee than the previous climb. Since we were short on time (Nathaniel was insistent that we get back to… more |
Revelation Weeping Wall Suicide Rock |
Sun, May 27 2007 |
5.10a ** | This was fun, and really didn't feel hard to me. There were thin edges all the way, so I did much more edging than smearing. I think Joshua Tree slabs feel harder to me, because… more |
Frustration Buttress of Cracks Suicide Rock |
Sun, May 27 2007 |
5.10a * | This was an excellent crack climb. The beginning part was in the easy 10 range and involved some thin finger locks. The rest went up a wide flaring groove, for which I stayed on… more |
Surprise Direct Weeping Wall Suicide Rock |
Sun, Jun 3 2007 |
5.9 ** | This was a really fun route. It was mostly really really easy for the first two pitches (and good thing too, since there was virtually no pro on the first pitch) with a few… more |
Hesitation Sunshine Face Suicide Rock |
Sun, Jun 3 2007 |
5.10a ** | This was super fun. Though a bit harder technically than the previous one, and much more varied, it wasn't the least bit runout. In fact, I kept joking that at the crux the bolts… more |
??? Tick Rock |
Thu, Jul 26 2007 |
5.10b | Curtis, then Craig, then the-other-guy-whose-name-I-can't-remember climbed a 5.8, then I climbed this slightly harder variation to it. This had a nice but short section of… more |
??? Tick Rock |
Thu, Jul 26 2007 |
5.9 | Pretty fun, and a bit pumpy for a 5.9. And it had a nice little finger crack at the end, which I of course was happy about. |
??? Tick Rock |
Thu, Jul 26 2007 |
5.10c | Just to clean the anchor, I climbed the slightly harder route right next to the previous one. |
Just Another Roadside Attraction Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Oct 14 2007 |
5.7+ * | I've driven by this route more times than I can count, and I've thought about doing it many times. Aaron has mentioned it many times, I think just because it was rated 5.9 in the… more |
Baby Roof Wonderland of Rocks Joshua Tree |
Sun, Oct 14 2007 |
5.7 ** | This was really fun, but way too short. From far away, the roof looks pretty big and difficult, but it's quite easy. In fact, the old book rates this 5.8, but the new one… more |
Aftermath Wonderland of Rocks Joshua Tree |
Sun, Oct 14 2007 |
5.10a *** | Freaking awesome crack! The old book gave this three stars, the new one only two. I've kept it at three, because in my humble opinion this route deserves four or five. The first… more |
Baby Face Wonderland of Rocks Joshua Tree |
Sun, Oct 14 2007 |
5.7 | This was fun, and as J-Tree slabs always are, a bit spicy, even for a 5.7. The bolts were old rusty button-heads, and there were only two of them. |
Andromeda Strain Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Oct 14 2007 |
5.7 * | This one was recommended to us by a couple we met early in the day at Roadside Rock. It was fun, and relatively long for a J-Tree route. I had lost a nut and quickdraw on Roadside… more |
B-1 Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Oct 14 2007 |
5.1 * | Though it was completely dark by the time we were ready to leave, I wanted to go to Trashcan just for the sake of tradition. Sharon had never free-soloed anything before, and I… more |
Silkworm Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 27 2007 |
5.6 | Started with a long scramble up a gulley. The actual 5.6 crack after that was pretty good, but short. I just stayed at the top and belayed the others up from there, since it just… more |
Wilma Rubble Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 27 2007 |
5.7 | This was a really nice crack, and deserves at least a star or two. Easy, but really good. I led it and just set a top-rope for Jeremy, Sharon, and Janet to use. They all got up it… more |
Smooth as Silk Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 27 2007 |
5.8 * | Excellent crack, and deserves more than just one star. Without a doubt the best easy finger crack that I've climbed in the monument. I led it, set a top-rope, then rapped off so I… more |
Thigh Master Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 27 2007 |
5.9 * | This was a very cool route, with a very non-trivial crux. I think it took me a solid two minutes to figure out what to do with my feet at the crux move. Unfortunately, the crux was… more |
Butterfly Crack Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 27 2007 |
5.11c *** | Since we had Jeremy's crash pad with us, and I wanted to climb something harder than 5.9 today, I decided to revisit this old friend. I bouldered through the crux once, to refresh… more |
Walkway/B-1 Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 27 2007 |
5.4 R * | I climbed this mostly just to clean my anchor from the top of Butterfly Crack. And because it's tradition. In the dark the traverse over to B-1 was trickier than it ever had been… more |
Freeway Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 4 2007 |
5.7 R * | This was an interesting route. Mostly very easy, and not as run-out as it looked. Some of the “exits” off the freeway looked a bit interesting, but I wasn't thoroughly inspired to… more |
Cake Walk Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 4 2007 |
5.8 *** | This was quite nice, but if I were assigning the stars, I'd give Dinkey Doinks three and this one two. This one had a more discontinuous crack and I got very few really satisfying… more |
Dinkey Doinks Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 4 2007 |
5.8 ** | This was excellent, and felt quite easy to me, but both Danielle and Marisa had significant difficulty with the initial part of the crack. For me the crack was marvelous, as were… more |
Sig Alert Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 4 2007 |
5.10b/c *** | This was a really fun mostly-sport route. I clipped a fixed nut at the beginning and placed a small nut in the middle of the long (but easier) run-out at the end, but otherwise it… more |
Trip to Joshua Tree: Sunday, November 11th, 2007 through Monday, November 12th, 2007 | |||
Date Rape Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 11 2007 |
5.9 * | Despite the name, this is a really fun route. I'm thoroughly amazed at the plethora of high quality routes in this small area. Jackie had some difficulty with the start of this,… more |
Tinker Toys Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 11 2007 |
5.10b ** | Jackie didn't think she was up to doing this one, so she followed Darrin up Cake Walk while Brian followed me up this, even though he had just led it. |
Nobody Walks in L.A. Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 11 2007 |
5.9 ** | For a long pitch, this is a bit of a one-move wonder, and then it's all jugs (which made it quite fun!) From the ground, with several little roofs to climb through, it looked like… more |
The Talking Fish Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 11 2007 |
5.10c/d *** | Incredible route. The first half is sustained, sport-like slab-ish climbing on edges protected by bolts that follow a seam, though you rarely actually use the seam. There's one… more |
Dogleg Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Mon, Nov 12 2007 |
5.9 *** | Since I wanted to warm up on something easier before we tackled the harder routes we had planned for the day, and I wanted Jackie to have a chance to climb something reasonably… more |
Hobbit Roof Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Mon, Nov 12 2007 |
5.10d ** | I wish I had tried this one earlier this year when Aaron and Nathaniel and I were considering doing it... it would have been a great confidence boost! This route is SOOO not .10d!… more |
Coarse and Buggy Roadside Rocks Joshua Tree |
Mon, Nov 12 2007 |
5.11a/b **** | FAN-FREAKING-TASTIC! One of my goals for the weekend was to finally get on this route, and I'm really glad now that I did. This route is absolutely beautiful! Unfortunately I… more |
Butterfly Crack Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Mon, Nov 12 2007 |
5.11c *** | Brian wanted to look at this and boulder the start, and maybe actually climb it. I convinced him to rope up and climb the whole thing, and then followed him up it. It felt so much… more |
Kate's Bush Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 16 2007 |
5.8 * | This was a nice, fairly straightforward warmup. I don't know why on earth the book gives this two pitches, except for the fact that there happens to be a big ledge halfway up. But… more |
Chestwig Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 16 2007 |
5.10a ** | This started with a nice thin crack, and ended with a decent hand crack. The crux was definitely the lower part, but it didn't feel too bad to me. |
Other Voices Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 16 2007 |
5.7 * | Matt wanted to try leading something fairly easy, so he decided to try this one. About halfway up, it becomes a real crack climb, and you have to hang on hand and foot jams while… more |
I Love Brian Piccolo Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 16 2007 |
5.8+ * | Since the last climb brought us up to the upper right end of Mel's Diner, we decided to do this climb, since we had seen it from the ground and it looked kind of nice. Of course,… more |
Left Mel Crack Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 16 2007 |
5.10b/c *** | This was quite sweet. The real crux is down low, not actually on the slab at the beginning where I expected it to be, but in getting around the first little overhang. After that,… more |
Right Mel Crack Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 16 2007 |
5.10c ** | This was harder but less sustained than the previous one, hence the rating and the stars. The crux was basically one move, right near the beginning and well protected by two nuts,… more |
Lizard Skin (a.k.a. Blue Belly) Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 16 2007 |
5.9 * | This was fun and mostly easy. It was basically an easy boulder problem at the beginning, then a short jug-fest after that. I placed two nuts. |
Dappled Mare Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 12 2008 |
5.8 *** | A very good climb. The traverse down and left on the last pitch seems like a less aesthetic variation than continuing straight up the crack (going straight up is “Roan Way”, which… more |
Mare's Tail Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 12 2008 |
5.9 * | This was fun, and only had a few slightly tricky spots. It did have a slightly scary section, where there was a large block sticking out of the wide crack, and you had almost no… more |
B-1 Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 12 2008 |
5.1 * | We did this just so Janet could practice placing gear and building anchors. She placed one nut and three cams. The first placement (a #13 Stopper) was completely and utterly… more |
Trip to Joshua Tree: Saturday, March 8th, 2008 through Sunday, March 9th, 2008 | |||
Hans Solo Stirrup Tank Joshua Tree |
Sat, Mar 8 2008 |
5.9 | This was a very fun, albeit short, climb. |
Free As Can Be Stirrup Tank Joshua Tree |
Sat, Mar 8 2008 |
5.7 | This was a good little route, and Janet's gear placements were much better than the last time I saw her lead. They still weren't perfect, but very good. |
Die Young Stirrup Tank Joshua Tree |
Sat, Mar 8 2008 |
5.9 | This was an interesting little route. It was really more of a slab climb than a crack, but with a shallow seam for gear. |
Gargoyle Stirrup Tank Joshua Tree |
Sat, Mar 8 2008 |
5.6 | This is an outstanding amazing excellent hand crack, and deserves at least three stars. Janet led it with no trouble at all, and her gear placements were very good. |
Peter Easter Pumpkin Eater (Start was hard!) Stirrup Tank Joshua Tree |
Sat, Mar 8 2008 |
5.10c | There's NO way the start of this thing is only .10c, unless I missed some serious beta or something. The line itself looked quite striking from a distance, when I saw it from the… more |
Do Or Dike Stirrup Tank Joshua Tree |
Sat, Mar 8 2008 |
5.9 | This was an odd but fun climb, up a steep dike/crack kinda thing. |
Jugular Vein Stirrup Tank Joshua Tree |
Sat, Mar 8 2008 |
5.8 | A very pretty line, and a lot of fun. I fully believe several of the climbs in this area, including this one, deserve a star or three, but I think the area was rarely visited at… more |
New Toy Stirrup Tank Joshua Tree |
Sat, Mar 8 2008 |
5.6 | This was fun and easy, and Janet led it without any difficulties. |
Jessica's Crack Sheep Pass Joshua Tree |
Sun, Mar 9 2008 |
5.6 | Janet started up this, but bailed when it got really wide near the top. From the beginning it seemed like her head wasn't really in it. Her gear placements were mostly very good… more |
Lazy Day Sheep Pass Joshua Tree |
Sun, Mar 9 2008 |
5.7 ** | Janet again started up the first few feet of this, but her head just wasn't in it again, so I took over. |
Jaws Sheep Pass Joshua Tree |
Sun, Mar 9 2008 |
5.6 R *** | I saw this in the book, and someone we were talking to recommended it, despite the R rating. It was definitely VERY runout, but a good introduction to easy chimneying. I placed a… more |
Diamond Dogs Sheep Pass Joshua Tree |
Sun, Mar 9 2008 |
5.10a *** | This was excellent, and I'm really glad I finally got to climb something a little bit hard on this trip. Aaron and I had looked at this a few years ago, and I don't remember why we… more |
Trip to Red Rocks: Wednesday, March 19th, 2008 through Sunday, March 23rd, 2008 | |||
Tunnel Vision White Rock Springs Red Rocks |
Thu, Mar 20 2008 |
5.7+ *** | This was the last of the super-classic moderate routes at Red Rocks that I hadn't yet climbed, so it's been on my list for a while. Danielle and I got up at 5:15, and although we… more |
Beulah's Book Oak Creek Canyon Red Rocks |
Fri, Mar 21 2008 |
5.8 * | Since we had backpacks, we decided to take the easier arête variation rather than the chimney/corner on the second pitch. This is not only the crux of the route, but from what I… more |
Going Nuts/Solar Slab Oak Creek Canyon Red Rocks |
Fri, Mar 21 2008 |
5.6 *** | The Going Nuts variation to the first two pitches was really easy and just pure fun for me. Larry suggested this, and as soon as he mentioned it I decided it was a good idea,… more |
Panty Prow Calico Hills Red Rocks |
Sun, Mar 23 2008 |
5.6 ** | Danielle was too worn out to do another long climb (and long hike) today, and she wanted to get some more experience leading (maybe even do her first trad lead), so we went to… more |
Panty Mime Calico Hills Red Rocks |
Sun, Mar 23 2008 |
5.10d ** | This was a great slab climb, but it actually had holds! At Joshua Tree it probably would have been .10a, maybe .10b at the most, and probably would have had 3 bolts instead of 6. |
Panty Raid Calico Hills Red Rocks |
Sun, Mar 23 2008 |
5.10a *** | This was an excellent climb! It even felt like it might have been .10a, just because it was so sustained. Really more like a very pumpy 5.9 face climb, but with excellent gear for… more |
Boxer Rebellion Calico Hills Red Rocks |
Sun, Mar 23 2008 |
5.7 * | Danielle led this with no problems. It felt pretty easy to me, but others were saying it felt harder than 5.7, and apparently an older guidebook calls it 5.8. |
The Last Panty Calico Hills Red Rocks |
Sun, Mar 23 2008 |
5.7 | This was another easy sport route for Danielle to lead, and she did just fine with it, but she was pretty tired. |
Cover My Buttress Calico Hills Red Rocks |
Sun, Mar 23 2008 |
5.6 | This was Danielle's first trad lead. She did fine with it, but of course she took quite a bit of time placing gear. With the exception of one nut that was probably good enough, but… more |
Skinny Dip The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sat, Dec 6 2008 |
5.7 *** | Crazy route! And kinda cool. You really have to be skinny to do this thing. Seriously, I think I'm about as skinny as a healthy man can be, and I could barely fit through the part… more |
Tennis Shoe Crack The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sat, Dec 6 2008 |
5.8 * | This was a really nice crack, but quite short. The most fun part for me was watching Peter follow it without jamming. He started out liebacking, and promptly fell. Closer to the… more |
Super Roof The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sat, Dec 6 2008 |
5.9 *** | This was interesting, and kinda fun, but it really wasn't a “roof crack” as I'd always heard. The crack you follow out the roof is huge, so to actually crack climb it would make it… more |
Toe Jam Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sat, Dec 6 2008 |
5.7 ** | I'm glad I finally got to do this one. There wasn't even a line, although there was a party of four people doing the route just to the right of this, a .10b called Judas that… more |
Judas Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sat, Dec 6 2008 |
5.10b * | This is the one right next to Toe Jam. It's basically a thin hands boulder problem, followed by a super easy slab, then one 5.9 slab move, then the second half of Toe Jam. The crux… more |
Walkway/B-1 Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sat, Dec 6 2008 |
5.4 R * | My usual favorite way to end the day. It was already getting pretty dark when we did this (Peter went up Walkway), so we just hung out at the top for a few minutes, then went down… more |
Whiskey Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 14 2008 |
5.6 | This was short and easy, but reasonably good, basically a one-move wonder, with the crux right off the ground. Thuy followed it without difficulty. |
Gin Fizz Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 14 2008 |
5.7 R | Another short one, also with the only tricky move coming right off the ground. Also not really all that runout. |
Scotch Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 14 2008 |
5.6 R | Another short one, also with the only tricky move coming right off the ground. This one was runout, but the runout was in the really easy middle section. |
Scotch With a Twist Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 14 2008 |
5.8 R | This was a little trickier, but still mostly a one-move crux right off the ground. This also wasn't really that runout. |
AA Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 14 2008 |
5.7 | This was short but really nice. The thin crack down low was fun, and the hand crack up above was awesome. The first part of it was a little wide, so Thuy had to use fists for a lot… more |
The Haberdashery Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 14 2008 |
5.8 | This was pretty nice. I thought it was quite a bit better than most of the other routes on this rock. The crux involved rather shaky flaring hand jams, but on low-angled rock, and… more |
Genuine Cowhide Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 14 2008 |
5.10a ** | This was a pretty good one, and felt fairly tricky for 10a. But the crux was really just kind of pumpy face climbing on pretty good holds, protected by a bolt. Once you got into… more |
Heart Slab Indian Cove Joshua Tree |
Sun, Dec 14 2008 |
5.8 | The guidebook says this has five bolts, which is a lie. Furthermore, it indicates that two of them are below the big horizontal gash in the middle, and not only did I not see any… more |
Mental Physics Wonderland of Rocks Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 31 2009 |
5.7+ **** | I think this is the first time I've ever hiked way out into the Wonderland looking for a particular crag, and actually found it without getting completely lost for at least a… more |
Dazed and Confused Wonderland of Rocks Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 31 2009 |
5.9 *** | This was an excellent slab route. Thuy fell once on the first pitch, but otherwise had no difficulty. Like Mental Physics next to it, the second pitch had no pro other than one… more |
West Face Overhang Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sat, Feb 21 2009 |
5.7 ** | It's funny the kind of attention you get if you take a beautiful, voluptuous blonde to Joshua Tree for some climbing. I unfortunately attracted a little attention myself while… more |
The Flue Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sat, Feb 21 2009 |
5.8 *** | This was an outstanding climb: a fun juggy start, followed by a long right-slanting crack that afforded excellent jams most of the way. I can hardly believe I've climbed so many… more |
Howard's Horror (direct start) Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sat, Feb 21 2009 |
5.10b * | I had a little trouble figuring out the start of this route at first, but once I got the idea, it was mostly a one-move wonder. With the regular start, the route is only 5.7. I was… more |
Bat Crack Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sat, Feb 21 2009 |
5.5 * | This was pretty fun for me, but perhaps not so pleasant for Amanda. Also, I have to admit it felt a little stout for 5.5... but I guess I'm not a wide-crack hardman like back in… more |
Tiptoe Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sat, Feb 21 2009 |
5.7+ ** | Amanda had no real difficulty with this, but was slightly sketched out, and climbed past a bolt without unclipping it once. Funny... reminds me of my first trip to Joshua Tree. |
Trip to Joshua Tree: Friday, February 27th, 2009 through Sunday, March 1st, 2009 | |||
Shaking Like a Leaf Jumbo Rocks Joshua Tree |
Sat, Feb 28 2009 |
5.8 ** | This was okay, but way too short, and pretty soft for 5.8. Not worth the hike. |
Chimps and Cheetahs Jumbo Rocks Joshua Tree |
Sat, Feb 28 2009 |
5.9 * | This was more interesting, and was actually tricky at the bottom, especially considering that to avoid a nasty fall before clipping the first bolt, I had to start on the slab to… more |
Nurn's Romp Sheep Pass Joshua Tree |
Sat, Feb 28 2009 |
5.8 ** | This is an outstanding crack, and I really don't know why I haven't done it before, considering that I've climbed routes on this wall at least twice before. Perhaps it was always… more |
Walk on the Wild Side (Not enough time) Sheep Pass Joshua Tree |
Sat, Feb 28 2009 |
5.7+ **** | It's quite a bummer having to add this to my climbing log... didn't make it up a two-pitch route in Joshua Tree before dark. Jeez. Really, it was pretty dumb of us to think we… more |
Invisibility Lessons Split Rocks Joshua Tree |
Sun, Mar 1 2009 |
5.9 **** | This is a fantabulicious crack! The lower part involves some technical footwork before you get to the actual crack. The crux is a 10-foot section of thin hands immediately after a… more |
Continuum Split Rocks Joshua Tree |
Sun, Mar 1 2009 |
5.8+ *** | This one was also excellent, although not as high quality as Invisibility Lessons. The start was probably the crux, a steep but short section of thin hands (with other more… more |
Overhang Bypass Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sun, Mar 1 2009 |
5.7 *** | I can't believe it has taken me this long to get around to doing this über-classic that's right there in the Campground! I think every other time I've considered it, it's been… more |
The Eye Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sun, Mar 1 2009 |
5.3 *** | Holy crap this is a fun easy route! Next time I'm in the general vicinity of the Campground with a noob, I should do this. Or for that matter, next time I'm in the Campground and… more |
Right Sawdust Crack Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Mar 1 2009 |
5.8 ** | This is another route that I can't believe I haven't done before, considering how often I finish the day at Trashcan Rock. It's a pretty nice crack that starts at thin hands and… more |
Walkway/B-1 Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Mar 1 2009 |
5.4 R * | Had to take a quick stroll up my favorite little solo while I was here. This was quite a nice day overall. |
Mr. Bunny versus Six Unknown Agents Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Apr 26 2009 |
5.8 ** | A fun route, but short and mostly really easy. A nut that I placed got stuck pretty badly, and Thuy worked on it for a while with no success. So I decided we could do the route… more |
Mr. Bunny's Tax Shelter Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Apr 26 2009 |
5.5 | This was easy, but quite fun. I think I'd give it a few stars. |
H & R Block Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Apr 26 2009 |
5.6 * | Thuy's first lead! I had noticed this in the guidebook, and when we got to the top of Mr. Bunny versus Six Unknown Agents and I saw it up close, I immediately thought it would be a… more |
Tax Man Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Apr 26 2009 |
5.10a **** | This was of course the goal for the day. This is one of those routes that I've been meaning to get on forever, and I can't believe I've gone this long without trying it. It's quite… more |
Bloody Tax Break Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Apr 26 2009 |
5.10b ** | An excellent climb, and it actually seemed somewhat easier than Tax Man, just because it had really nice rests throughout. I placed nothing but nuts until the very end, where I… more |
Mr. Bunny's Refund Check Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Apr 26 2009 |
5.10a ** | Yet another beautiful straight-in thin crack, albeit a little shorter than the previous two. Clearly, if you like 10a/b finger cracks, IRS Wall is a prime spot. Thuy once again… more |
Alf's Arête Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Apr 26 2009 |
5.11a/b **** | This route was recommended to me by Nathaniel as one to try whenever I got around to doing Tax Man. I'm glad I did, as it was excellent! Interestingly, even though this route is… more |
Trip to Idyllwild: Friday, June 5th, 2009 through Sunday, June 7th, 2009 | |||
Serpentine Weeping Wall Suicide Rock |
Sat, Jun 6 2009 |
5.9 *** | This was an excellent and fun route the second time around, just as it had been the first time. Unfortunately, this time the weather didn't cooperate as well, but we all survived.… more |
The Long Climb (Wong Climb start) Northwest Recess Tahquitz |
Sun, Aug 16 2009 |
5.8 ** | I can't believe it's been three years since I've been to Tahquitz! I was really hoping to do Whodunit, since that is my favorite route here, and it's been years since I've repeated… more |
Red Rock Route Summit Block Tahquitz |
Sun, Aug 16 2009 |
5.7 * | I noticed this in the guidebook, and thought it would be a fun way to get up to the “true summit” of Tahquitz. So we scurried up this and had lunch at the top. This was quite a fun… more |
Dave's Deviation to Upper Royal's Arch West Face Tahquitz |
Sun, Sep 6 2009 |
5.10c ** | This climb linked up four different routes in five pitches (although we should have done it in four — see below). Here are the pitch-by-pitch details: Dave's Deviation Direct Start… more |
Captain Hook Buttress of Cracks Suicide Rock |
Sat, Sep 19 2009 |
5.8 * | This was a fairly fun and interesting climb. Getting around the “crocodile's head” on the first pitch was a bit interesting, but not too difficult. Dianne had a little difficulty… more |
The Hernia Buttress of Cracks Suicide Rock |
Sat, Sep 19 2009 |
5.8 * | This was a really fun little route! It was mostly easy, with the exception of a technical crux that consisted of about two moves, about half-way up. Dianne almost got through this… more |
The Old Man and the Poodle Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 16 2010 |
5.8 | All of these Hemingway poodle routes were just as good the second time around as I had remembered them being. This one deserves a star or two. This time I again did the direct… more |
For Whom the Poodle Tolls Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 16 2010 |
5.9 * | This one deserves at least two stars in my opinion. Just as I had remembered, it had a couple of tricky moves at the beginning, but the rest was much easier. Amanda struggled with… more |
A Farewell to Poodles Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 16 2010 |
5.9 | This one also deserves at least two stars, in my opinion. I think it's not as sustained as For Whom the Poodle Tolls right next to it, but the quality of the climbing on it is… more |
Walk on the Wild Side Sheep Pass Joshua Tree |
Sat, Jan 16 2010 |
5.7+ **** | This was a truly sublime way to finish the day, although getting down turned out to be a mini-epic. I really should try to start being more attuned to the, shall we say,… more |
The Enforcer The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sun, Feb 14 2010 |
5.9 * | Although very short, this climb was pretty decent. Helene found the crux move to be really reachy, and actually had to pull on a piece of gear to get through it. |
The Hit The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sun, Feb 14 2010 |
5.9 | This was a one-move wonder. That one move was maybe 5.9, but the rest was cake. |
Biscuit Eater The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sun, Feb 14 2010 |
5.10a * | An excellent and really interesting route! I rather stupidly fell on it just as I was exiting the crux section. I just got kind of sloppy, I think... really dumb. After I fell, I… more |
The Bruiser The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sun, Feb 14 2010 |
5.10c ** | This was one of my goals for the day, and I flashed it. That made me pretty happy. It was mostly just very technical, with reasonably good but not excellent rests along the way. It… more |
Sniper The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sun, Feb 14 2010 |
5.11a ** | I flailed on this pretty badly, although really only on the crux section. I would say that this is a pretty serious lead. Even after having finished it, I don't know if I would… more |
Woman's Work Is Never Done The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sun, Feb 14 2010 |
5.10c ** | As soon as I saw this crack from the base of Hit Man Rock, where we started the day, I thought it looked amazing. When I looked in the guidebook, I was not surprised to find out… more |
Blue Collar The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sun, Feb 14 2010 |
5.4 * | Helene led this just to practice placing gear. She placed mostly nuts, because she thought she especially needed practice placing those... and, well, she was kind of right. Her nut… more |
Corn Flakes The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sun, Feb 14 2010 |
5.6 * | Helene led this one to practice placing leading and placing gear. Apparently she is a very fast learner, because her nut placements were much much better this time than on the… more |
Time and a Half The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sun, Feb 14 2010 |
5.10d * | We decided to toprope this since we already had an anchor set up above it, and it was too late in the day to go climb something anywhere else. Although it has apparently been led,… more |
Trip to Idyllwild: Saturday, June 26th, 2010 through Sunday, June 27th, 2010 | |||
Whodunit Northwest Recess Tahquitz |
Sun, Jun 27 2010 |
5.9 *** | This climb was as outstanding as I had remembered. |
Trip to Yosemite: Friday, July 16th, 2010 through Sunday, July 18th, 2010 | |||
Snake Dike Half Dome Yosemite Valley |
Sat, Jul 17 2010 |
III 5.7 R ***** | |
Trip to Yosemite: Wednesday, August 4th, 2010 through Sunday, August 8th, 2010 | |||
Munginella Lower Yosemite Falls Area Yosemite Valley |
Thu, Aug 5 2010 |
5.6 **** | |
Selaginella Lower Yosemite Falls Area Yosemite Valley |
Thu, Aug 5 2010 |
5.8 *** | |
Bishop's Terrace Church Bowl Yosemite Valley |
Sat, Aug 7 2010 |
5.8 ***** | |
The Hernia Direct Finish / Aqualung Buttress of Cracks Suicide Rock |
Mon, Sep 6 2010 |
5.10a * | |
Hair Lip Sideshow Slab Suicide Rock |
Mon, Sep 6 2010 |
5.10a ** | |
Trip to Yosemite: Thursday, September 16th, 2010 through Tuesday, September 21st, 2010 | |||
Direct Route/Regular Route Reed's Pinnacle Yosemite Valley |
Sun, Sep 19 2010 |
5.9 ***** | |
Double Cross Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 16 2010 |
5.7+ *** | |
Geronimo Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 16 2010 |
5.7 ** | |
Sidewinder The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 16 2010 |
5.10b **** | |
Super Roof The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 16 2010 |
5.9 *** | |
Let's Get Horizontal The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 16 2010 |
5.11b ** | |
Pinched Rib Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 16 2010 |
5.10a *** | |
The Flake Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 16 2010 |
5.8 ** | |
Walkway/B-1 Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 16 2010 |
5.4 R * | |
Aiguille de Joshua Tree Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 30 2010 |
5.6 X *** | Marcus wanted to check this out, and I thought Atlantis Wall, Jimmy Cliff, and/or Arid Piles would be pretty good spots to climb today, so we decided to head out to the farther… more |
Lurleen Never Tried It Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 30 2010 |
5.7 | |
Live From Tasmania Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 30 2010 |
5.9 * | |
Walkway/B-1 Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sat, Oct 30 2010 |
5.4 R * | |
Mr. Michael Goes to Washington Lost Horse Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 14 2010 |
5.7/8 * | |
North Overhang Hidden Valley Campground Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 14 2010 |
5.9 *** | |
Rollerball The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 14 2010 |
5.10b **** | |
Keep the Ball Rolling The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 14 2010 |
5.9 * | |
Woman's Work Is Never Done The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 14 2010 |
5.10c ** | |
Corn Flakes The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 14 2010 |
5.6 * | |
Working Overtime The Outback Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 14 2010 |
5.9 * | |
Pope's Crack, Direct Finish Echo Rock Joshua Tree |
Sat, Nov 27 2010 |
5.10b *** | I hadn't realized it the first time I did this, but we did the wrong finish. Apparently what Schuster did then was the finish of Moment's Notice (5.6 R): near the end of the… more |
Effigy Too Echo Rock Area Joshua Tree |
Sat, Nov 27 2010 |
5.10a/b *** | |
Halfway To Paradise Echo Rock Area Joshua Tree |
Sat, Nov 27 2010 |
5.10a *** | |
Dummy's Delight Real Hidden Valley Joshua Tree |
Sat, Nov 27 2010 |
5.9 *** | |
Sphincter Quits Real Hidden Valley Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 28 2010 |
5.9+ *** | |
Leaping Leaner Real Hidden Valley Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 28 2010 |
5.6 ** | |
Snnfchtt Real Hidden Valley Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 28 2010 |
5.8 * | |
Jumping Jehoshaphat Real Hidden Valley Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 28 2010 |
5.7 * | |
B-1 Quail Springs Joshua Tree |
Sun, Nov 28 2010 |
5.1 * |