FAN-FREAKING-TASTIC! One of my goals for the weekend was to finally get on this
route, and I'm really glad now that I did. This route is absolutely beautiful!
Unfortunately I didn't get the onsight, but I'm fairly certain I could redpoint
it pretty easily if I tried it again. I had to hang once in the stemming
section near the beginning of the route, which I'm a bit bummed about, as this
was really mostly technical. Hands are mostly useless here, as the crack in the
back is too small even for tips. It's all about the feet. After this, I milked
a few good rests, then stepped up to the burly upper crux of the route, where I
promptly took a nice-sized whipper onto my gray Rock Empire booty cam. I had
made the same mistake that Aaron had made years ago and had told me about: I
went for the sucker hold, instead of the good one. The stupid thing is that it
took me three more tries to figure this out. Once I got through this section,
the rest was fairly easy. I set an anchor and rapped down, cleaning on rappel.
Brian then led it onsight.