Comments:

I flashed this! Too bad I was following, but still, I was pretty psyched about it. Aaron had to hang a few times, but this was at least partly because he was worried about the gear. Some of the first gear placements on this route look pretty sketchy, but they're not that bad. For future reference, a #3 Camalot fits well in one of the first big flaring pockets, and a #4 Camalot will go (deep) in the big groove higher up. From there the bolt isn't far. The crux looks really hard and devious, but it's not that bad. There's an excellent edge for a foot right where you need it, and other than that I just found myself pulling hard on small pockets for ten feet or so. Once you pass the bolt, you are rewarded with some sweet sweet hand crack, slightly overhanging at first, then easing up.