Comments:

I saw this in the book, and someone we were talking to recommended it, despite the R rating. It was definitely VERY runout, but a good introduction to easy chimneying. I placed a tiny nut about one third of the way up the chimney, but the tiny flake I wedged it behind probably wouldn't have even held body weight. There were two or three other places where I could have done this, but I decided not to bother, and just ran it out all the way to the top of the chimney, where I finally placed a cam, the only real pro on the whole route.