This route lived up to its reputation as a spectacular climb. I had done the
first pitch before with Aaron, but I hadn't led it. So I got to enjoy the
“unbelievably good jugs” on lead this time. The second pitch, with
its famous step-around move, was excellent. The picture in the guidebook of
Ellen Wilts following this wearing slacks and a button-up blouse, a
fashionable wide-brimmed hat, and converse sneakers has always been a favorite
of mine. It struck me that it would probably be a bit of a challenge to the
fledgling 5.6 trad leader. For one thing, there are some slightly tricky
moves, and the step-around itself is pretty heady and exposed, especially for
Tahquitz. Furthermore, the whole second pitch, and a lot of the third, are
traversing, so it's important to place gear with the follower in mind. For a
middle-aged woman in the 1950's, Ellen Wilts was quite a badass. There are a
few variations for the third pitch, and wanting to stay true to history, I
chose the original one, but I suspect the more direct finish (186b in the
book) might have been better. Also, with all the ledges and slightly lacking
pro, there were a few moves on this pitch that were a bit scary. I've got to
get back to leading harder stuff!